We’re back at home after a few days in London but for me it’s a brief visit. Being back in London was lovely but what a strange time to be there. It’s certainly not the city I used to live in for so many years – for a whole host of reasons.
Right now it’s time to regroup and prepare to head off to Germany tomorrow. I’m looking forward to my travels as I’ll be exploring some places I’ve not been to a very long time (and can’t really remember) as well as new destinations and the landscape in-between. As the trip involves avoiding flying it’ll take some time – but that’s part of the fun.
Keep an eye out for the next week’s rolling blogs – starting tomorrow as I head for Harwich and the ferry to the Hook of Holland. In the meantime, here’s the picture of the day which was taken at London Kings Cross station this afternoon just before we headed back North.
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We’ve a full day in London today and we’re about to head out and make the most of it. There’s very much a feeling of two cities right now. There’s the classic city with Londoners and tourists going about their normal lives and then there’s the other city which is coping with the late Queen lying in state until her state funeral Monday. Today we’ll be exploring both, so expect flow of pictures throughout the day…
10:40.
I nipped out to buy some snacks for breakfast whilst Dee gets ready. The Bayswater Rd is traffic free but you can tell you’re in ‘posh’ London as the local petrol station has a mini Waitrose supermarket rather than the usual Tesco! Petrol’s surprisingly cheap too. £1.63 a liter (we were seeing it at £1.75 in Norfolk last week). I nipped into Kensington Gardens to sit and watch the world go by for a while. Life appeared normal. The paths were full of runners and dog-walkers or tourists out for a stroll. Back at the hotel the TV announced that the ‘queue of queues’ as it’s becoming known is so long it’s been closed. Newcomers are being kept in holding pens in a park in Bermondsey and it’s been announced no-one else should try to join until after 4pm today! Somehow, I can’t see that happening…!
13:20.
Having wandered back down to Leicester Square then across the Thames at Charing Cross we’re now sitting outside the Founders Arms on the South Bank (one of our favorite spots) watching the queue of queues and enjoying a view of the river and city of London beyond.
15:21.
Crowdwatch – pt 2
22:15.
We’re now back at the hotel after yet another full day walking around London and experiencing what’s going on in the capital due to the death of Queen Elizabeth. It’s been a fascinating experience on so many levels. I’ll add more about this soon when I’ve more time to go into detail. But here’s a few shorts. As far as we could gauge (and we saw a lot of it) the queue was almost evenly balanced between genders. It was overwhelmingly older, with most folk over 30 years old – and also mostly white, although Asian communities were a significant minority with (from what we saw) the African and Afro-Caribbean less represented. It was also good-humored and stoic – despite the length of time. Here’s a few pictures from our observations.
A Pigeon decides to take a close look at the queue near Blackfriars.Ex-members of the armed services were much in evidence. Not everyone came with others. There was a significant number of people who came on their own to pay their respects. The queue by the Globe theatre with Tourists strolling past in the opposite direction. More medals on display…The queue by Tower Bridge. This was far from the end. Grandad and Grandson by HMS Belfast.Vanessa Feltz from Talk TV out interviewing members of the crowd.
Having walked for miles around the South bank we headed back to London Bridge and crossed to the North bank of the Thames for a wander past St Pauls, Fleet Street and the Inns of Court before heading up to Euston where we dropped into Drummond St to eat at an old haunt. Ravi Shankar is a long established Indian vegetarian restaurant which I’ve been frequenting since the 1990s. It didn’t disappoint..
Chana dahl.Uthappam – South Indian pizza!
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
After a slow morning at home, we’re finally on our way to London having travelled to Leeds to catch an LNER service to Kings Cross. Trains are surprisingly quiet today. Our 3-car Northern unit from Halifax was quieter than normal. As we pulled into Leeds we watched the 12:15 to the Cross depart with lots of empty seats. OK, it may fill up on its way South but then the station itself was far quieter than expected. Is everyone taking time off to stay at home and watch endless hours of TV about the royal funeral, or are people simply talking the time off anyway?
We caught the 12:45 to Kings Cross which was formed of a Mk4 set straight off Neville Hill depot. Propelled by Intercity liveried 91119 it was a substitute set for the scheduled working that should have been inbound from Kings Cross but that was cancelled due to a track circuit failure. This train is also empty. We’re in coach B (the quiet coach at the rear) with just half a dozen others. I’ll be interested to see how many get on at our intermediate stops of Wakefield, Doncaster and Peterborough.
91119 ready to push 1A30, LNERs 12:45 from Leeds to London Kings Cross.
14:00.
After our stops at Wakefield and Doncaster I had a wander through the train to the buffet and counted 85 passengers in Standard Class and around dozen in 1st. Stopping to chat to the crew they reminded me that today was meant to be a strike day which has clearly had an impact. Our fellow passengers are a mix. There’s one or two who look like they’re travelling for work but the majority are young single travellers (a surprising amount of whom are of SE Asian descent) plus one or two elderly couples – just the leaven the mix.
No worries about getting a seat on this service.
16:20.
We’ve arrived and checked-in to our hotel just off the Bayswater Rd. Now we’re getting ready to explore. We took a roundabout route via Farringdon and Paddington just so Dawn could have her first taste of the ‘Lizzie line’. London seems rather subdued and not as busy as I thought it might be. But then we’ve not hit the areas where the mourners are yet…
St Pancras Thameslink. Quieter than normal. On an Elizabeth line train to Paddington.
22:10.
Today’s been very much the tale of two cities. After dumping everything in our hotel we went for a walk through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, following the Serpentine. The parks weren’t busy, but a massive enclosure with screens was being set up in the N/E corner of Hyde Park with more portaloos than you could shake a stick at. I’m assuming this is to do with the funeral. Afterwards we went for something to eat at a Wagamama at the base of the Edgeware Rd. The restaurant was almost empty which was a real surprise.
Not how you expect to find a Wagamama just a stone’s throw from Marble Arch on a Thursday.Still, the food was good!
Bellies full of delicious food we caught a bus along Oxford St to Oxford Circus before wandering through Soho to Chinatown. These areas were absolutely packed. All the pubs had people spilling out into the streets and the atmosphere was anything but funereal.
Business as usual in Soho…– and in Chinatown…
It was only when we walked down to Charing Cross and across the Thames to the South bank that the atmosphere began to change. As we crossed the river we could see the queue of people who were going to pay their respects to the Queen, but it was moving very quickly and people were hardly nose to tail.
Ambling along the South bank we recrossed the Thames at Westminster bridge which was closed to traffic. It was very busy with people taking in the sights but the atmosphere was subdued, almost respectful. It was the same in Parliament Square. We lingered for a while so that Dawn could soak up the atmosphere before walking along Whitehall (also blocked to traffic) and back to Trafalgar Square.
The queue on the South Bank by Charing Cross bridge looking East.Parliament Square was busy, but the atmosphere was subdued. Still, it’s good to see the tower without scaffolding after so long swathed in the stuff.
From there the hardest thing to find was a pub that was selling decent beer. If I’m going to be paying £6.50 a pint I at least want something decent to drink – and a seat! Eventually, after several false starts we found a Sam Smiths pub called The White Horse on the corner of Rupert St and Archer St. It was a typical London corner boozer that was surprisingly quiet and ideal for a quick pint and chance to rest our feet.
We decided to eschew further refreshment stops and headed back to the hotel by bus after stopping at a supermarket to pick up supplies. We’ve walked miles, seen a lot and need time to relax and digest. Tomorrow’s another day…
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Today’s been my last full day here at Bigland Towers for quite some time, so I’ve been making the most of it to catch up on a (long) list of household chores, paperwork and picture editing, as well as getting stuff in place for heading off to Europe on Sunday. Even the weather Gods have played ball, gifting me some wonderful autumnal sunshine to accompany my afternoon stroll and break from staring at screens.
Now it’s time for a quiet evening at home before we’re up early to get ready to head down to London for the next couple of days. I’ve no idea what to expect as these are unusual times. What I do know is that the capital will be busy but I’ve no idea how that will play out. Will the new Puritanism that’s seen so many places close as a ‘mark of respect’ for the passing of the Queen have any impact on life in London, or will Londoners simply treat it as just another event in a very crowded history? We’ll soon find out.
My blogging will be mostly (but not all) confined to pictures and explanations rather than a magnum opus or running commentary. We’re there to enjoy ourselves after all. But I hope to give some insights into my old hometown – even if those days do seem like a long time ago now.
In the meantime, here’s today’s picture. It’s from a previous royal funeral, that of the Queen Mother on the 9th April 2002. I watched the funeral procession pass Horse Guards Parade and took this shot of the Royal crown atop the coffin through the crowd.
At some point soon I’ll relate the tale of when I met the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh and became a royal photographer. I was tasked with taking their picture along with the staff of the Royal Train at a private event. It turned into every snapper’s nightmare due to a variety of circumstances outside of my control, but it makes a great story!
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
It’s been another busy day here at Bigland Towers. Well, for me anyway. Dawn’s been equally as busy but working from the Community Rail Network office in Huddersfield rather than from home so I’ve been the sole occupant of the manse. Editing and sending off the pictures of my recent round Britain trip for RAIL magazine took up a lot of the day whilst sorting out my next work trip to Europe took up much of the rest. Some of the stuff was mundane, like renewing my National Union of Journalists press card. To the NUJs credit they do this very quickly and sent me a useable PDF of my new card by return email. I needed it to gain accreditation for where I’m off to next week – the vast Innotrans railway trade fair in Berlin.
Originally, due to various other recent ‘happenings’ I wasn’t sure I’d be able to attend. Innotrans is held every two years, the last one was in 2018. We should have had one in 2020 but Covid but the mockers on that so this is the first event in four years. I’ve been going since 2008 and was loathe to miss such an important worldwide event in the railway calendar. This week I looked into the logistics and decided that – despite the last-minute nature of booking I could pull it off – and get there in the greenest possible way – even if it will cost me.
I’ll be heading to Europe on Sunday via the Harwich – Hook of Holland ferry. I’ve not used this route since 1981 so I’m expecting it to be part trip down memory lane and also part new adventure as so much has changed since then. From the Hook I’ll be making my way to Rotterdam via the metro, then catching a series of trains that will carry me all the way to Frankfurt (Oder) where I’ll base myself for the next 5 nights. Hotels in Berlin are far too expensive because of Innotrans which is attended by tens of thousands of people from all over the world. It’s OK if you book months in advance but right now hotels are charging anything from £2,000 upwards – which is OK if you’re on generous expenses – but that’s not us freelances! Instead, I’m within 70 minutes commute, which isn’t much different to travelling to work in London from many locations. In recent years the weather at Innotrans has always produced to fine sunny days. I’m hoping this year will be the same. Even if it rains there’s miles to be walked through the vast indoor halls of the Berlin Messe. You certainly use up a lot of shoe leather!
I’ll be attending all four days of the event before retracing my way across Europe by train – a trip I’m really looking forward to almost as much as the event itself. Expect daily blogs and lots of pictures like these from the 2018 event.
Before I go to Germany I’ve one more day working from home, then both Dee and I head to London for a short break, which leads me on to today’s picture which is a view of the city of London (aka the ‘square mile’) taken from the South bank of the Thames by Blackfriars in October 2017. Needless to say, it’s changed a bit since then!
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Another working week begins here in Bigland Towers now the holiday’s over. Well, for now at least. The pair of us have had a busy day keyboard-bashing, photo-editing and researching our next trips in the UK and elsewhere. The problem (as always) is there’s just not enough hours in the day or days in the week to get everything done which can be quite frustrating at times. Still, all will become clearer over the next few days. The pair of us are down in London on Thursday/Friday which is when we were meant to be at the National Rail Awards, instead we’re just going to enjoy a couple of days in the capital although I suspect it may be a rather different atmosphere due to ‘events’. We shall see…
As I’m now bog-eyed from said concentration and staring at screens it’s time for the pair of use to knock off and have some quality time together. We’ve raided the freezer and broken out some home-made urad dahl and chana masala to go with some firecracker basmati rice. Well, the salad days are behind us now after all as Autumn is fast approaching. This means the picture of the day is in the finest tradition of those food bloggers or people who love posting their meals on Facebook! Normal service will be resumed tomorrow when I’ve waded my way through more edited pictures. In the meantime, I’m off to scoff this!
A wicked combination of urad dahl (left) and chana masala (right) on a bed of firecracker rice and garnushed with hot lime pickle and mango chutney. I may need to put a toilet roll in the fridge for later…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Talk about life comes at you fast! There’s been no lazy Sunday here at Bigland Towers as the maelstrom of events in the real world have kept me occupied most of the day. Planning stuff at the moment is proving to be difficult due to what the late Prime Minister Harold Macmillan famously replied to a question in an interview when asked about what would determine his governments course “Events, dear boy, events.”
I know exactly how he felt – although I’m not facing my own personal Suez crisis. Instead, I’m responding to the events of others. The death of the Queen is the one that’s having the biggest impact on my own life due to the way it’s affecting the rail industry. Outside of that I’m looking at worldwide events and the situation in the Ukraine where the Russian invaders are suffering a humiliating defeat right now. The Ukrainian offensive has recaptured 1000s of Kms of territory and inflicted a rout on the Russian army the likes of which haven’t been seen since the Nazi invasion of Russia in 1941 – but with one huge difference. Now the Russians are the aggressor. Twitter has proved to be invaluable when it comes to accurate and up to date information and accounts like ‘Ukraine Weapons Tracker’ @UAWeapons which documents losses on both sides is well worth following. My hope it that the Ukrainians continue to be supported by the West (including the UK) and that the Russian people begin to wake up from the fantasy they’ve been fed by their leader before more people on all sides have to die.
What I find fascinating about how the internet age and the way various social media platforms are disseminating (often real-time) experiences from the frontline is how it’s made control of the media impossible. In the Vietnam war the Americans learned how a free media was damaging their ability to control the narrative. The public swung against the war because of the scenes they were seeing played out on their TVs most nights. Both the British and the American governments learned from that in future conflicts by ’embedding’ journalists into military units as a way of controlling (and therefore censoring) their outputs. The internet age has destroyed that level of control. Now you can see cameraphone footage as it happens. Troops record and broadcast their experiences (even sometimes their last experiences). The genie is out of the bottle once more and the war in Ukraine is playing out in real-time in a way no other war has. Add in the drone footage of actual strikes and it’s a million miles away from grainy gun camera footage from world war 2 fighter planes.
Meanwhile, remember Covid? It’s still here – even if it’s no longer considered newsworthy. Thankfully, it’s on the decline worldwide, so I’m looking forward to being able resume my international travels soon. But before that I’ve an awful lot of pictures to edit and words to write – and events to attend if I possibly can.
Apropos of that, here’s today’s picture, which is another delve into my travel archives. Here’s a country I’m really looking forward to returning to – Thailand. It’s no paradise (where is?) as it has a military government, but the people are amazing, and the railway system is changing so much. This picture was taken at Hua Lamphong station in central Bangkok 10 years ago. Soon the station will be made redundant by a newer, vaster and more modern multi-level interchange at Bang Sue. It will be fit for the 21st century – but it won’t be the same…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Being back in Bigland Towers seems rather strange after such a great week away. The fact the weather’s so different isn’t helping. After a week in balmy temperatures where I’ve hardly ever been out of shorts and singlets it feels odd to be back in heavier clothing – and enclosed shoes! Not that it’s mattered too much as I’ve spent most of the day chained to my desk in an effort to edit the backlog of pictures that I have to deal with before Monday arrives, and I have to rewrite my diary due to what Harold Macmillan beautifully described as “events, dear Boy”…
This means there’s not much of a blog from me tonight as I’m ‘cream-crackered’ and looking forward to catching up on some down time. There is another chore I’ve sorted out tonight. The next few hundred old rail slides and assorted memorabilia have been added to eBay tonight. Interested parties now have five days to browse and place their bids. You can find out what’s on offer by following this link.
OK, on to the picture of the day which is one more from our trip to North Norfolk. Here’s the superb roof inside the 900-year-old Norwich cathedral.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
We’ve had an excellent week here in North Norfolk which has been made all the more enjoyable by the fact the weather’s been far better than was forecast. Oh, we’ve had a few thunderstorms and torrential rain, but the downpours have been during the night and the thunderstorms have merely added some dramatic skies as a backdrop. Now it’s time to pack the car and begin the trip back to West Yorkshire, although we’ll be taking the long way home as we’re in no rush. Besides, we have to be out of our accommodation by 10:00 so we have plenty of daylight to play with. Stay tuned to see what we get up to…
10:45.
We’re taking the scenic route along the coast from Cromer to Kings Lynn which is proving to be fun! Heavy rain has flooded the road in many places, especially at Cley next the sea.
Shortly afterwards we passed a new Landrover which had it and totalled someone’s car at a crossroads. Nasty…
11:45.
Having traversed the coast we made a pit-stop in Hunstanton at the site of the old railway station. There’s not a lot left.
We didn’t hang around. The weather’s cold and cloudy and the place is pretty deserted. We’re heading for Kings Lynn instead.
14:30.
Kings Lynn was far more interesting. The town has a fascinating collection of old buildings including the last remaining Hansatic league structure left in the UK.
Another interesting structure I had time to get shots of (thanks for stopping, Dawn) was the old rail/road swing bridge known as Cross Keys Bridge at Sutton Bridge.
The grade 2 listed Cross Keys Bridge was built in 1897 at a cost of £80,000. The nearest (Westbound) span was the one used by the Midland and Great Northern joint railway (M&GNR). Here’s a look down the old railway side.
20:45.
We’ve made it home finally after dodging some torrential rainstorms en-route. I’m beginning to hate the A17. Whilst traversing it on the way out we learned that the National Rail Awards was being postponed due to the rail strikes. This time on the way home we learned that the re-arranged awards was being postponed yet again (this time until October) due to the death of the Queen. Sadly, the revised date means that I’ll be unable to attend for the first time since 2003, but then so many things are up in the air right now.
The rest of the trip was uneventful – unless you count keeping out for people who really shouldn’t be let loose behind a steering wheel. The standards of driving we saw on the A1m, M1 and A616 (never mind in North Norfolk) was often awful. Thankfully we made it home in one piece. Mind you, it’s not just the standards of driving. I was looking at some of the stuff around the Queens funeral plans and came across this absolute gem of misinformation and sloppy journalism from @TimeOutTravel on Twitter. Not having checked any facts and having cribbed from 18 month old articles in newspapers they came up with this guff about the Royal Train being used to convey the Queen’s body from Scotland to London.
Thankfully, such a nightmare scenario has been avoided by flying the Queen’s body back from Scotland, much to the relief of ordinary passengers, rail staff and the British Transport Police. It’s bad enough when the general public cause chaos on the line as the ‘Flying Scotsman’ goes past. People throwing bunches of flowers onto 25,000 volt overhead wires on the East Coast Main Line or trespassing to do so doesn’t bear thinking about!
Over the next few days I’ll be catching up with editing all the pictures that I’ve taken over the past week. There’s not a huge amount as I’ve mostly been on holiday (honest!). Even so, there’s enough to keep myself and viewers occupied. I’ll post links to my Zenfolio website when they’re viewable.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Today’s our last day here in North Norfolk as tomorrow we head back to West Yorkshire. There’s going to be a very short blog from me tonight as there’s too much to do in the way of packing and also – how do I blog about the events of the week in just a few minutes? A week where we’ve ‘gained’ a new Prime Minister and a right-wing disaster of a government – and also lost a Queen who’s been on the throne for 70 years? To quote Bob Dylan, “the times, they are a changin”…
The UK’s reaching a critical path in its history and I’m really not sure how this is going to pan out, so I’m going to take time to ponder to myself and enjoy the last day of the holiday before facing a new reality. Right now, I’ll leave you with the picture of the day, which is of a place we visited today – Blickling Hall.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 