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Paul Bigland

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Paul Bigland

Monthly Archives: February 2023

Asian adventure day 49. Georgetown day 17.

28 Tuesday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Railways, Travel

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Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Railways, Travel

Toda’s my last full day in Georgetown – at least on this trip, although I did nip over to the mainland for several hours to amass some more railway pictures. As is often the case my timing wasn’t brilliant and the fates conspired against me. I was up early but wanted to get a local breakfast so I wandered up to the Komtar bus station to buy some Nasi Lemak. I struggled to find it where I was staying in KL but then the opposite’s true here. I love Roti Canai to start the day with but the place I used to get it for breakfast here’s closed down. Funny old world…

Suitably fed and watered I scanned the skies and thought a trip over to Bukit Tengah, the first station out of Butterworth would be worth doing as I could spend a couple of hours taking pictures before coming home. As the ferries are only hourly now I even had time for a wander and buy some ‘clackers’ for a friend. Remember ‘clackers’? They were a 1970’s child’s toy phenomenon. Two plastic balls on the end of some twine that you bounced up and down until they ricocheted off each other in an endless cycle like a devilish Newton’s cradle (with half the balls). Well that was the idea, most people lost control after a minute or so and got a hefty clout on the wrist. It was a passing fad, but here in Penang they’re back.

My diversions meant the first ferry I could catch was the 11.30 which was fine, I arrived early, found a hard plastic seat next to a fan, logged on the the free wifi and waited. The seat was a bad idea, because as soon as I tried to stand up my back/bum muscle problems returned. I’d been doing so well up to that point too – bugger!

Despite the setback I continued with my trip, catching the ferry to Butterworth before walking up to the station to buy a 2 ringgit return to Bukit Tengah, the first station up the line but which is the location of the new depot which services locomotives, multiple units and wagons. Photographically, it’s far better than Butterworth, but there’s not a lot going on outside the station, so if you were tempted to visit, bring your own snacks. There’s a big petrol station outside if you’re desperate, but the choice of food’s limited, expensive and not very healthy. Anyways here’s a sample of the pictures I took.

‘Dalian’ 29106 powers around the curves at Bukit Tengah en-route to Butterworth.

Right now I’m enjoying my last night in a town I love. I’d planned to have a drink in one of the old bars I photographed in the past but found somewhere far mor interesting. After the rain had come and gone I went for a walk and passed what the Aussies would call a ‘bottle shop’. Only this bottle shop provided seating and gradually took over the road outside. A shout from a chap I’d bumped into earlier led me to sitting with a mixed group. He was from New Zealand, but the woman next to him was from South Korea. Also present was a local Indian guy as well as a bloke from Catalonia, who was keen to emphasise he wasn’t Spanish! It turned out to be a lovely group. We asked a lot of questions of each other and covered a lot of political and social ground.

The ‘secret’ International bar. It springs up some nights apparently and its clients are far more interesting and communicative than the ‘posh’ bars nearby. Here people talk, they don’t sit and stare at their smartphones

Now I’m back at home, packing and preparing to move on tomorrow. I can’t think of a better ending to my time here and I’ll certainly return, one day. Happy places are so rare…

On my way home I passed the Hong Kong bar (est 1920) on Lebuh Chulia which used to be packed. But fashions have really changed and the fleet’s no longer in. Instead there’s one lonely lady left staring at her TV, surrounded by old mementoes of better, busier times.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 48. Georgetown day 16.

27 Monday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Art, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Art, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

I’d thought of a visit to one of the beaches around Batu Ferrenghi on Penang’s North coast today but when I got up this morning the weather was overcast and the threat of rain was very much in the air. So, plan B it was then which meant having a far more chilled time and not subjecting my healing back/bum to the hard plastic seats on the local buses. Instead, I spent much of the morning editing and captioning some of the backlog of travel pictures I have in order to get them onto my picture website. You can find them here.

There’s a lot more to add but I’ve always got to balance the time taking them to the time editing them, especially as the former can only be done in one place and the latter anywhere. Tomorrow’s my last full day in Georgetown before catching the train back South to KL (Kuala Lumpur). I’ve mixed feelings about that as I’m very happy here. I’ve always loved this place, but I know I can’t stay here forever. I’ve spent hours and walked miles exploring the streets which has been fabulous – as have the people because the overwhelming majority (from whatever original nationality) are so friendly. Make eye-contact and smile and you’ll get a smile back – or even a wave and ‘hello mister’. Do that in the UK and many people will think you’re some kind of nutter. It’s the same with photography. Most people on motorcycles will wave and grin if they see you’re taking a photograph. Here’s an example from the food fair I went to a couple of days ago.

This picture was entirely unforced. I just happened to be walking past their stall and they saw my camera pointing towards them so responded positively. That’s one of the things I like about this part of the world.

Tonight I’d nipped out for some local street food. Char Kway Teow (stir-fry noodles) and ended up sharing a table with a young Indian guy. Whilst be waited for our food to arrive we struck up a conversation. It turned out he lives in Mumbai. He’s in his early twenties and works on the Indian oil and gas rigs as an engineer. They do 28 days on, 28 days off and as he’s young, footloose and fancy-free he spends much of his time travelling. He’s in Georgetown for a few days before heading up to Bangkok and then Vietnam. As I’ve done the same route we swapped travel tips and talked about places we both know in India. It’s yet another example of why I really enjoy this cultural melting pot and international crossroads. We were so busy talking that I forgot to take a picture of this signature Malaysian meal, but I’m sure I’ll have it again before I leave.

Now it’s time to have a quiet night in, my penultimate one in Georgetown (on this trip, anyway) before heading South. Still, you can see some more of the pictures I’ve been busy adding to my Zenfolio site by following this link.

There’s so much that I could write about and pictures that I could show you but times limited. It would be so very easy to write a book about this place. In the interim, I’m going to leave you with another bit of street art that references world war 2 but also a cartoon strip in the iconic 1960s ‘Mad’ magazine which I used to read second-hand thanks to my brother, Dave. Plus, it’s about photography, so it scores full points with me.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 47. Georgetown day 15.

26 Sunday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

This will be a very short blog from me today as most of my day’s been spent at the Georgetown branch of Bigland Towers editing the huge backlog of pictures I have whilst still exploring the town and getting a few steps in. After that I had a long weekend video call with with Dawn which really bridged the miles.

Living in West Yorkshire, the one thing I’ve come to appreciate is how flat Georgetown old town is. Don’t get me wrong, Penang’s famous for its hills but the old town’s a cyclist’s delight. The biggest ‘hill’ I’ve climbed recently is the footbridge near the Komtar centre!

Anyway here’s a few pictures from the day…

There’s so many different food to try here you could spend months chomping your way around the place. Today I found a spare table at this place and tried their Laksa, which was gorgeous!
The soup’s more of a broth and you really wouldn’t expect the ingredients to work together, but they do. Despite its fame this restaurant charges 7 ringgit for a bowl – less than £1.30.

Oh, and here’s today’s random cat picture…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 46. Georgetown day 14.

25 Saturday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Today’s been a three personal shower day so far, but that might stretch to four. The mercury’s hit 33 degrees but the humidity’s been ramping up a bit which has made the day a bit sticky to say the least. Even so, I’ve had another fascinating day wandering around the town. How often do you get chance to spend so much time in a UNESCO world heritage site, but also one that’s so colourful and vibrant?

As I’ve mentioned before, every day’s different, you see so many things. But there’s also an advantage to spending so much time in one place. You start to recognise patterns and people start to recognise you. Apart from wandering, one of my favorite pastimes is to find a street corner with a good field of view so that I can use the camera with a good field of view and see what slips into my lens – as you’ll see later.

Weekends are always much busier than the week but I’ve no idea where the influx of Chinese and European tourists has come from as I checked the harbour and no cruise-ships have arrived. Penang’s a popular place for Chinese tourists as it retains a lot of Chinese culture that’s been lost in China as a result of Chairman Mao’s 1960s ‘cultural revolution’. Plus, here’s part of the Chinese diaspora from the 1800s in the same way the Irish, Scots and many others were scattered around that time.

Whilst I didn’t find any cruise ships, I dis find a rather good food fair with an environmental and youth slant that’s on the seafront for the next couple of days. The people on the stalls were delighted to see Europeans and talk to us about their foods and other products. I was filmed a number of times in order that I could appear in their social media profiles. Purely by happenchance I was their for the grand opening by a local dignitary, but I’ve not had chance to find out who they were. What was nice was swapping nods and handshakes with the local press pack as I’d got the 400mm lens on the D5, so straight away they spotted a fellow professional. What was interesting was the opening ceremony. After said VIPs turned up the MC launched into a very long Islamic prayer, after which the national anthem was played and literally everybody within earshot (even those in the nearby park) stopped and stood up whilst it went on.

I’ll add a lot more pictures tomorrow, but I’ve had a busy day, which is why this blog is so late. I also bumped into a couple of people afterwards whom I stopped to have a rare been with. I’ve not se foot in any of the tourist bars but several times I’ve passed a small shop that seems to sell a huge range of beers and wines. In the evening you grab a plastic chair from a stack and sit in the road outside. As I was passing I overheard a conversation about railways, so interjected. Next thing I know I’m chatting to a Japanese IT chap and railway enthusiast and an Aussie civil engineer about all sorts of stuff, so thought, bugger it, I’ll stay for a while. Then the wind sprang up as a forewarning before the heavens opened. Now I’m back at the Blue Star whilst the rain beats down good style.

So, here’s a few pictures from today in Georgetown.

Remember when I’ve said this place has a lot of money sloshing around? Some of the cars tend to give that way.

A couple of the many local Chinese temples seem to be gearing up for a big day judging by the Joss stick racks that have appeared outside to block the road. Here’s one of them.
I’ve mentioned this lady before but I’ve never been able to get a decent picture. She lives locally to me and spends most of her day cycling around ‘wombling’ – collecting cardboard and plastics to sell for recycling.
The food fair on the promenade is a lovely event as both the regional dishes and people are lovely.
Oh, that ‘bar’ I mentioned earlier? This is it. Buy your bottle/can of the poison of your choice inside, then pull up a plastic chair in the street.

Before I go, here’s today’s random cat picture.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 45. Georgetown day 13.

24 Friday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

Here’s the latest snapshot of life in Georgetown which never fails to fascinate me as every day is different. You can walk down the same street a dozen times but there’ll always something that turns your head.

Whilst my back injury’s been healing it still isn’t perfect which has meant I’ve had to make a go/no-go decision. I’ve less than two weeks left here in Asia before returning to the UK so heading back to Bangkok by rail only to spend another two days retracing my steps to Singapore doesn’t make sense – as much as I’d have liked to. Instead I’m going to stay here in Georgetown until March 1st, then head back down to Kuala Lumpur en-route to Singapore. There might be a side-trip involved yet, but we’ll see.

In the meantime I’m loving being here in Georgetown. I’ve often said how it’s one of my ‘happy places’ and I feel very at home here. It’s not the cheapest place in Malaysia but it is one of the most interesting. I’ve spent most of the day wandering the streets with my camera, so here’s a few of the results.

Tram tracks still embedded in Jalan Penang despite having been abandoned 100 years earlier. Georgetown used to have a fleet of trolleybuses until 1961. Some of the vehicles were ex-London buses.

I’d walked over to the Komtar tower bus station to stretch my legs and pick up a traditional Malaysian breakfast of Nasi Lemak but what I saw on the way back really pissed me off. I passed a young European ‘beggar’ with a sign asking people to give him money so that he could get a ticket to Bangkok. What the fcuk? He was sitting there staring at his smartphone without making eye-contact with anyone or making any interaction other than with his cardboard sign. Now, my head is full of questions as I know how border crossings work. I’d read about these western beggars in the newspapers recently, but never thought it would be a thing and that Europeans could have such a sense of entitlement and lack of understanding of the countries they’re in. More fool me, obviously.

His sign says “Hi, I’m travelling, please help me collect money for the train to Bangkok and food. Thank you”.

Less than 50 metres away I passed this woman. Guess which one got my money?

What really pisses me off about this guy is he’s offering nothing in return, just expecting. For the past few nights there’s been another European who’s set up a stall near where I’m staying who sell bracelets he’s made. I consider him to be in a completely different category.

This incident has led me to dig this old sign that was prominently displayed as Padang Besar station which is the rail crossing between Malaysia and Thailand. This was still here in 2009.

Oh, on a completely different note, here’s today’s random cat picture.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 44. Georgetown day 12.

23 Thursday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Georgetown, Malaysia, Musings, Photography, Travel

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Georgetown, Malaysia, Musings, Photography, Travel

Shit – 12 days already? OK, if it wasn’t for my injury I might not have stayed so long. On the other hand – I’m in no rush to leave. I love it here and it’s the one place where – if I had another life – I’d consider moving to. Funnily enough Charlotte and Adi expressed the same sentiment because you can get everything here – and you’re not too far from the Thai border -hence the daily minibuses. Only now there’s a fly in that ointment. The Thai Government have decided you can only make two stamped at the border crossings a calender year. After that you need to apply for a (free) visa at a Thai embassy – which will take up a whole day of your time and a page in your passport. This doesn’t apply if you fly. It’s purely about land crossings. Let’s not even get into ‘green’ options – although I’m considering mine.

Therefore I’ve decided to stay longer in Malaysia and spend time thinking about where I go next. After all, there’s so much to see and do here and Georgetown’s the perfect place for people -watching. I’ve been taking pictures today which do exactly that. I love wandering the streets so here’s a couple of todays pictures.

I walked through Downing St earlier. Remember when you used to be able to do that in the UK? Admittedly, is wasn’t full of tw*ts in those days…

Having been here for a while I’ve started to get to know some people. Not foreigners – I had a very depressing experience sharing a table in an Indian curry house tonight, when my enforced English companion (no other table was free) started banging on about ‘illegal’ immigrants taking people’s jobs in the UK. I was too mellow to rip him a new arsehole on that one, especially when he admitted he just drifted around Asia. But that’s a lot of Brits for you. Neither history nor immigration laws are their forte. It’s frustrating and the fact these xenophobes can’t put 2 and 2 together makes me want to scream.

It’s late and I won’t start telling the story of the chap in the bechak (tricycle) tonight as he deserves more. Instead, here’s a cuddly cat picture. Malaysians love their pets and also look after strays, You’ll always see pellet food and water being left out in strategic places. But in this case – this pudding thinks it owns the shop-house it lives in by the simple expedient of blocking the narrow doorway.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 43. Georgetown day 11.

22 Wednesday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

I’d planned to write a long blog about Georgetown today, but there’s been one problem. I’ve spent too much time exploring it and now it’s late. I’ve been wandering the streets since this morning and thoroughly enjoyed myself. It’s such a fascinating place, full of life and with so much to see and experience. I’ve always loved the town and today’s reminded me why. I took off this morning with no particular plan or destination in mind. I was literally getting lost, getting to a crossroads and then suddenly deciding to go left or right, just to see where I ended up. I’ve no guidebook to tell me where I ‘must’ go so I’m unconstrained. Half the fun is not being told where to go and discovering things.

Georgetown in such a vibrant, artistic place I was bound to fund street-art everywhere and the old town’s an UNESCO world heritage site, so there’s plenty of old temples and shrines to find, but I’m fascinated by the everyday architectural styles and the way the old Chinese shophouses developed. There’s such a mish-mash of architecture here it’s brilliant. Then there’s the shantys. Places that have no style as they’re organic, being put together out of whatever the occupant could find. I will do a long blog about the place as I’ve been taking photographs and collecting material all day, but for now, here’s a few pictures to show what I’ve been up to.

One of the classic pieces of street art that appears on T-shirts and bags. This is in Lebuh Ah Quee, only a few minutes walk from where I’m staying. Street-art is everywhere and a lot of it is very inventive.
A lot of the buildings here carry their date on which they were built, which is incredibly useful for gauging the age and development of the town. This is a 1940 version of a Chinese shop-house. I wonder if the occupants had any idea what was coming the next year?

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One of the many delights of Malaysia is the way so many people work open to passers-by. This man’s a Chinese calligrapher and carver who was sat outside his shop. Deep in concentration, he didn’t even see me.
Believe it or not, this is was passes for parking in Georgetown. This is Lebuh Chulia, one of the main arteries and bus routes, but abandoning your car like this whilst you go to a shop is OK, apparently. To the right you can see one of the many local ‘Wombles’. People who eke out a living by collecting and recycling plastic, cardboard and cans they collect off the streets.
Who needs a car when you can fit all this on a scooter? Georgetown’s a photographer’s paradise. All you have to do is stand on a street corner and wait…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 42. Georgetown day 10.

21 Tuesday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Politics, Travel

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Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Politics, Travel

After the all my exertions (and steps walked) yesterday, today’s been a day for relaxing. The good news for me is that my back seems to be in full recovery mode so the pain I felt a few days ago is really subsiding. It hasn’t gone completely by any means, but I now feel confident about planning my future travels. To be honest, I’m quite content here in Georgetown, there’s so much to see and do, but it is the most expensive place in Malaysia (food, accommodation etc) – even the country’s capital – Kuala Lumpur, is cheaper. But this place is special, which is why I’ll probably stay a few more days. The only question now is which way to go. North back into Thailand or stay in Malaysia. Yesterday, Nick pointed out something I wasn’t aware of. You can only make two land crossings into Thailand in any calender year. This is to clamp down on the famous ‘visa runs’ that supplied a lot of traffic from Thailand to Georgetown and back. It’s fine if you fly in (which I don’t want to do) and you can get a Thai visa that will allow you another crossing. It’s free, but you have to spend a day at a Thai embassy applying for one and said visa takes up a whole page in your passport.

I’ve not been up to much today other than editing pictures from the past few weeks whilst taking a daily wander to explore the area. The film crew who’ve been occupying the East part of Jalan Muntri have taken over more side streets as their filming expands, which has led to a bit of a diversion for me and the locals, but there’s plenty of other options. As it’s only Tuesday the place is somewhat quieter as the weekenders aren’t here.

When I was strolling back from getting something to eat I bumped into a group I helped last night as they’d got hopelessly lost but whom I was able to help with directions. Tonight we stopped for a chat. They were a Kiwi and a Singaporean Sikh, along with their Asian wives/girlfriends. Whilst the girlfriends found a bar the three of us got talking about travel – and politics from our own regional perspectives. The Sikh chap (I only know of his background because he told me) is what Indian friends have told me is known as a ‘cut’ – in that he has no beard, long hair or turban, but still identifies as Sikh. The conversation was really interesting – as was he – and it would have been very tempting to continue it in a bar but I’m trying to be good. So now I’m at home typing this!

To pique your interest in Asia here’s a couple more pictures from Georgetown.

We’re getting thunderstorms and rain showers very often right now. Yesterday I saw this localised shower sweep across parts of Georgetown from Butterworth.
I’m going to miss my morning alarm-clocks provided by the local Mosque. Admittedly, this one isn’t *that* local, but it is just down the road. This is the Kapitan Keling Mosque whom the nearby main street takes its name from.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 41. Georgetown day 9.

20 Monday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Railways, Travel

This won’t be a huge blog. Not because nothing’s been going on, rather the opposite! I didn’t get back to my hotel until late because I’ve been over to the mainland to meet up with a friend, Nicholas Lim. Nick is from Singapore but he’s travelling back from Bangkok. He’s broken his rail journey at Butterworth for the day before heading the rest of the way to Singapore by train tomorrow. As he knew I was in the area he contacted me and we arranged to see each other. I caught the ferry over to Butterworth where the pair of us enjoyed exploring part of the local rail network. The Northern sector of Malaysian railways is heavy with freight as well as a pretty intensive local passenger service. From February 18th that’s been strengthened by an extra three 3-car trains transferred North from KL that previously operated the suspended Skypark service. I can understand why. I travelled on it once and I was the only passenger. In contrast, the trains around Butterworth are busy, especially the ones to Padang Besar which often have six-car SCS sets working them.

We nipped out to Bukit Tengah the first station out of Butterworth which is where the new loco depot is located. On the platform we bumped into two local rail enthusiasts, both in their teens. Nick translated a question for me and I found out there’s 34 people in their local group which I found interesting, as it’s clear rail enthusiasm isn’t just a UK thing, nor is it confined to older ages.

We moved on to the next station, Bukit Mertajam to inspect the old steam locomotive plinthed outside the station. I remember it being outside the lovely old Butterworth station and wondered where it went. The years haven’t been kind to it. It needs some serious restoration (especially on the tender) otherwise in a few more years it’ll be a pile of rust.

As the Penang ferries are so infrequent now that was the limit of our travels. We headed back to Butterworth and caught the 18:00 ferry to Penang as Nick was keen to show me what he considered one of the best Nasi Kandar restaurants on the island. We boarded the free shuttle bus from near the ferry terminal to the Komtar centre and walked from there. I have to admit, Nick was right, this place is so popular you have to queue to get in – and I can see why, the combination of spices in the curry sauces was excellent and the staff are liberal with the mixtures. I had chicken and squid, both of which were delicious.

After eating we stopped off for a shared bottle of beer at a street restaurant which turned into an interesting experience as whilst we were sitting outside on the pavement the police turned up in a wagon and confiscated all the outside tables bar the one we were sitting at! The officers of the law had decided some infringement had taken place, so that was it!

I left Nick at the Komtar tower to get his bus back to the ferry terminal and catch the last ferry (21:00, what a travesty of a service) whilst I walked home. I’ll detail more of the trip tomorrow, but for now, here’s a few pictures.

One of the Chinese built 29xxx series freight loco’s which were bought in a palm oil swap many years ago. Known as ‘Dalians’ (after where they were built) they’re not as reliable as the ‘Blue Tigers’ but recent work has helped many of them return to traffic after being stored. This one’s returning light after having brought an intermodal service to the North container terminal.
The new shopping centre built over Butterworth’s bus station provides an excellent vantage point from its rooftop car park. Here’s looking back across a ship in the oil terminal at Butterworth to Swettenham Pier on Penang and a huge cruise ship which is getting ready to set sail. Two more from Singapore are due in tomorrow, which might make for some interesting pictures. In the background to the shot are some of the many residential skyscrapers that have sprung up like weeds in past 10 years – and there’s many more to follow…
Two of the redundant Penang ferries left rusting at Butterworth. Hiding behind them is one of their temporary sissy replacements.
The huge ramps to the Butterworth ferry terminal that used to be rammed with cars. Now all they see is the occasional scooter.
Also left rusting is former Malaysian railways ‘Pacific’ No 564.25 which was moved from Butterworth to a place outside Bukit Mertajam station.
Wearing Skypark livery but with all branding removed (at least on the outside) set 33 sits at Butterworth before working a local service to Padang Rengas.
Nicholas enjoying a plate of Nasi Kandar. It’s a mix of chicken, boiled eggs, veg and rice with lashings of different curry sauces.

Tomorrow I’ll be back to pottering around Georgetown whilst trying to catch up on editing todays pictures, so expect an earlier blog – or two.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 40. Georgetown day 8.

19 Sunday Feb 2023

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

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Food and drink, Georgetown, Malaysia, Photography, Travel

I’m back to being on my lonesome as Charlotte and Adi left this morning to head to KL. I’m sure they’ll have a great adventure on the rest of their trip but now it’s time for me to refocus and decide what I do next. My back’s gradually healing and I’m not in the same pain I was a week ago, but time’s ticking and I need to think about my next moves. That’s a decision for the morrow I think. As I’m flying solo again I had a lazy morning in order to rest my back, then went for a wander with the camera. It may be Sunday here but Georgetown’s still busy with visitors – many of whom are local to Malaysia. I’ve been fascinated to see how much indigenous tourism there is now, which suggests that the Malaysian economy and people’s disposable incomes are doing rather well. Many of the new bars around Lebuh Chulia aren’t catering for foreigners, they’re catering for Malaysians. Obviously, the Moslem Malays don’t drink, but the Chinese and Indian communities do – and they make up a large part of these bars clientele.

However, not all glistens with gold. Whilst there’s undoubtedly a lot of money here Malaysia’s no different in the fact the wealth is unevenly distributed. I passed a brand-new Bentley the other day. Shortly after I saw an old Chinese woman (whom I recognise from past trips) doing her usual rounds on her cycle cargo carrier to pick up old cans, cardboard and glass to make a few Ringgit from recycling. In the past she did this with her husband, but now she’s solo. I wonder what happened to him?

Earlier I went for a wander with no particular aim in mind other than to explore new streets. When I got to a crossroads I turned in the opposite direction to normal, which meant I ended up in Lebuh Armenian. (Armenian St) which is packed with shops selling anything from artistic items relating to the famed street-art to craft beers and baklava. This is why I love Georgetown. It’s a place full of artists – and surprises. I can see I’m going to have to make room in my suitcase for some items…

When your life’s your business and it’s shared with the family, is it really work?
Asian food? No. But it’s hard to resist sweets like Baklava sometimes and they chime with the sweet tooth in this part of the world. Just don’t ask about diabetes rates in Asia…

After returning home and having showered I then had a video-call with Dawn. We may be thousands of miles apart but it’s something I’m determined to do – just to have some quality time together. Afterwards I nipped out for something to eat and ended up in Lebuh Carnarvon as the sky was looking very threatening with a massive build-up of thunderous looking cloud. I chose a stall selling duck noodle soup which I’d never eaten at before. The food was great and the bickering between the two guys that ran it added another level of entertainment entirely!

It was worth eating here purely for the banter and comedy value.

Now, as I type this from the comfort of my Lodge I can hear the rain bucketing down. I’d thought about a couple of days on a beach at Batu Ferringhi, but the weather forecast might not play ball. Still, it could be an interesting time to be out with the camera…

Thunderous skies over Lebuh Chulia.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

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