11:40.
Right now I’m on my way from Tallinn to Riga by train with one change at a place called Valga.
I was up early this morning to make the most of my last few hours in Tallinn. Breakfast was included at my hotel, so I was filling up on rice, eggs and a bean stew just after 07:00 in a cast but empty room.The weather had changed today. We had bright sunshine and cloudless skies which I was determined to make the most of – as you’ll see in pictures I’ll post later. Here’s a tip. If you want to experience Tallinn at its most peaceful and get pictures that do it justice -get out early. The tourist hordes start appearing by 8AM. Before that you almost have the streets to yourself.
I wandered for a couple of hours with no real plan where to go, other than on a whim. It was brilliant! I love exploring like thia as you’ve no idea what you’re going to find.
My train left at 10:18 but I made sure I was there in plenty of time to get a few pictures. The Valga service is worked by a modern Stadler built diesel unit which is more configured for local services with 3+2 seating and no plug sockets, although it does have wifi. It’s perfectly comfortable – just Spartan. Seat reservations are required but pointless as the cars aren’t numbered and nor are the seats.
I’ve saved a day on my Interrail pass by buying a local 2nd class ticket which works out cheaper. There’s not much difference between 1st and Standard Class on these trains anyway.
The trips been interesting as I’ve been able to see Rural Estonia. It’s heavily wooded and the variety of trees would keep a tree spotter very happy as it’s not just fir plantations, there’s plenty of deciduous trees like silver birch too. Housing is quite scattered with traditional wooden bungalows contrasting with small villages where the homes are more substantial. It’s quiet everywhere.
The railway’s seeing a lot of changes. ‘Rail Baltica’ construction work is obvious near Tallin, whilst the existing line’s seeing rural stations having platforms extended. Other locations are getting stations for the first tine.
One stop was Tapa, ehich vontained a preserved Soviet era steam loco and decaying station buildings. Akso, acres of empty freight sidings which presumably would have been full of freight traffic to/from Russia before Putin’s ‘3 day war’ in Ukraine which has now lasted longer than the ‘great patriotic war’ against Nazi Germany. Tapa still boasts a wagon repair shops and train stabling, which mark its importance.
12:15.
Since we called at Tamsalu we’ve been crawling along. Some times no faster than walking pace. This single-track section of line’s being electrified and having new signalling installed, which is affecting performance. I only hope this has been factored in to the journey time!
13:00.
We’ve made it as far as Tartu, which is as far as the new Southwards electrification will reach. A lot of passengers detrained here, which led to a pleasent discovery. This train does have plug sockets! They’re under the small tables in seating bays of four on the raised floor areas of each vehicle. That’s a relief as my phone battery was down to 50%.
15;05.
Despite the engineering work along the line we arrived in Valga spot on time. Our connecting train had arrived in the platform a few seconds before! The cross-platform interchange was easy. My new conveyance is rather more upmarket than the last as it has at seat catering services and is altogether more plush, with more tables (including backseat ones). I took advantage of the menus offered to me by one of the two young lady hostesses to order a black coffee (not bad) and a cinnamon bun. It set me back a grand total of three Euros fifty!
Whilst this train’s more upmarket, I’m not sure about the ride quality. I’m sat in the same position I was on the earlier train and this one’s ‘hunting’ a lot. The 730m type are built by PESA of Poland whilst my earlier train was built by Stadler of Switzerland. Of course, the problem could just be the track. I can’t judge if Latvian railways have had the same level of investment that Estonia is seeing.
Another difference is that this train seems to be an ‘all stops’ service, which isn’t a problem. In some ways it makes it more interesting – as does the weather, which has turned into a mix of sunshine and showers! The countryside’s becoming more diverse too. It’s still heavily forested, but far more undulating, causing the railway to twist and turn.
23:00.
It’s time to close this blog. I’m now in Riga which is a world away from Tallinn, but fascinating in another way. I’ll explain more in tomorrow’s blog. I’ve two nights here, which is a luxury. Admittedly, the place I’m staying in isn’t luxurious – but it has a washing machine! I’ve now got a weeks worth of dirty clothes clean – even if my room resembles a Chinese laundry. I’m really looking forward to having time to explore tomorrow, knowing that I’m prepped for the next leg of the trip. In the meantime here’s the first few pictures from Riga.
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