I’m back in dear old Blighty (with the accent on the dear thanks to our ‘new’ Government’s policies) after a decent night’s sleep on the ferry from the Hook of Holland. To be honest, I’m looking forward to getting home now as I’ve a huge amount of pictures to edit and file – as well as begin writing my series of RAIL articles from my around Britain trip.
Right now, I’m on Greater Anglia’s 07:45 heading for Ipswich where I’ll take a pit-stop to have breakfast – and get a few pictures. Tempting as it was to have a trip to Manningtree on one of the few remaing Class 321s I’ve opted for a direct train in the shape of a Stadler Class 755. Here’s what I could have won!
08:05.
Just as well I planned to bail early. The weather here is awful and driver’s having difficulties as the motor for his windscreen wiper’s failed meaning there’ll be a unit swap at Ipswich anyway!
11:00.
I’m on the move again, this time from Norwich to Ely. It’s a roundabout way to get to Ely from Ipswich but the direct service is only two-hourly. Plus, with the weather being so dull it made sense to try my luck elsewhere. The plan worked. Norwich was (mostly) sunny so I managed a few decent shots before catching a Stansted bound train. I’m now set up on a comfy Class 745 and enjoying the scenery.
A pair of 755s at Norwich. The left hand unit is the 10:34 to Stansted Airport.
15:10.
I’m now on my way back to Yorkshire behind some vintage East Coast traction after stopping off at Ely and Peterborough en-route. Ely’s a delightful little station with friendly staff, a variety of refreshment outlets and a busy train service as it’s a major junction for the Fens. You also have entertainment provided by military aircraft on training exercises, although you can always hear the fast jets, you rarely see them. Train services are provided by Greater Anglia, East Midlands Railway, Cross-Country Trains and also Great Northern. I was surprised to see one of the Class 387/3s there as I’d forgotten they’d been transferred to the TOC in July from both C2C and Great Western.
Having shot a variety of pictures I moved on to another old haunt – Peterborough. Nowadays it’s not the most ideal place to get pictures but there’s a real variety of services and train fleets to be found, including this very shabby East Midlands Railway Class 156 working GN-GE services.
I stayed to grab a few shots before catching this beastie Northwards.
This takes me back in more ways than one.I first encountered the Class 91s here at Peterborough in 1990 when they were brand new and still being tested.
16:00.
I’m having another short break in Doncaster where this Trans-Pennine interloper has put in an appearence.
20:45.
I’m finally home and calling it a day for today. Now it’s time to unpack, wind down, eat some delicious veggie food that Dawn’s prepared and have some quality time together. Tomorrow’s another day…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
A quiet night in a hotel in Rotterdam has allowed me to start catching up on sleep after a very hectic week. I resisted the temptation to go out and explore yesterday and elected to stay in my room with a beer and a laptop in order to catch up with the volume of pictures I’ve been taking this past week. Food was provided by a little Persian supermarket around the corner where I bought the Iranian version of the Greek Dolmades (stuffed vine leaves). Only the main ingredient in Dolmeh appears to be chickpeas rather than rice. They were delicious!
Now I’m about to check out of my hotel to spend the day exploring the city before heading to the Hook of Holland to catch the night boat. Sadly, this one isn’t to Cairo but back to Brexit Britain run by the asset strippers of the Tory party…
13:30.
I’m taking a short break to rest my weary bones and enjoy the sun having spent the past few hours wandering miles around Rotterdam. I’ve realised that I’ve not bee here since 2007 when I was working for a French firm who build train simulators. In one way it seems like the blink of an eye, in other ways it’s a lifetime. Here’s a few phone piics from my wanderings. As you can imagine, my real camera has been kept very busy!
I love the mix of architecture here. I spotted these doors on a building opposite my hotel.Rotterdam is a city built for people, not for cars. The old docks and a preserved ‘Sik’ (Goat) shunting engine.A memorial to Jewish children killed in the war.As you can imagine, there’s plenty of bridges here. The tall one is a former railway bridge. The view from where I’m sitting right now.
20:00.
I’m finally on my way to the Hook of Holland after a lovely day exploring the city. There’s so much that I could write about the place and my experiences through the day, but here’s a few. Holland is a melting pot. I passed and took photos of a silent march by members of the Muslim faith where the sole purpose was to remind people that no-one is free of opression. I had a lovely chat with one of the stewards whi saw my interest. Heading back to thr hotel I popped in to a Persian supermarket to buy some if the delicacies I’d seen last night. I had a chat with the lovely he old guy running it where he talked about what’s happening in Iran right now. When I got to the metro station and started poring over the map a chap of Indisn origin worked out I was English and offered to help. We struck up a conversation as he was Sri Lankan but had livef in the Netherlands for 40 years whereas I’ve been a regular visitor to the island. I love these chance meetings and interatctions.
21:40.
It’s time to say goodnight. I’m now on the ferry back to Britain and there’s no free wifi on this one. See you on the other side as they say…
Time to get on the road again, only with a slight change of plan. I’d originally intended to get the ferry from the Hook of Holland back to the UK tonight but having seen the way punctuality of the German rail network isn’t what it was – and my connection in Rotterdam being tight I’ve decided to have one last night in the Netherlands and not have to stress about connections as I change trains four times on the way. Right now, I’m ready to begin the first leg from Frankfurt (Oder) to Berlin. Let’s see what happens…
09:55.
I had a pleasant stroll to the station as the weather’s still mild here. En-route I passed this sobering reminder of the country’s dark past. These two brass plaques were sunk into the pavement outside an apartment block. They’re a permenant reminder of local Jews who were murdered by the Nazis.
I’d given myself plenty of time to get to the station so that I could get some shots on the way. I’d hoped to get a selection of the meter gauge tram network but the little buggers proved elusive. It was only when I was almost at the station that a gaggle of them appeared, including this example.
The weather turned gloomy by the time I’d dug the camera out at the staion which was a shame as it’s a busy place. Rehional services to Berlin are interspersed with local trains and even international expresses from over the Polish burder just the other side of the Oder river. Heavy freight trains pass through every few minutes, carrying mix of containers, new VWs, minerals, chemicals and steel.
Not wanting to push my luch and knowing just how unreliable DB are nowadays I decided to hope on an earlier train (the 09:34) to get me to Berlin Ostbahnhof rather than my booked 09:58. It was a wise move. Despite starting from here it left 20 mins late at 09:54 so I hate to think what time the 09:58 will run at! My connection time in Berlin’s 24 minutes…
11:34.
In reality the journey panned out OK. Yes, the train I should have caught was late, but only by six minutes. The extra time I had in the bank allowed me to have a wander before my train arrived in the shape of a pair of the older Intercity (ICE2) sets. I’m now set up in the quiet coach, laptop plugged in and charging. The advantage of getting the train from Ostbahnhof is the sets arrive empty off the depot, so you have plenty of time to settle in as only a handful of other passengers do the same. Next stop is the Hauptbahnhof which is mayhem as the platforms are full – and now so is my train!
It doesn’t look like this anymore…
13:45.
It was all going so well until we left Stendal…
A few minutes later we ground to a rather rapid halt. Not quite a full ‘drop the lot’ emergency stop, but a very rapid deceleration ending in a slow stop. Then the crew call alarm went – which is normally a bad sign. It means the driver needs to talk to the train manager. After a while the train manager explained the delay was down to unspecified ‘engineering work’. As I’ve bought my ticket online from the DB website, I get regular email updates about my delayed trains and suggested revised onwards connections. The latest on also mentioned engineering work and also told me I’d still make my onwards connection – which was reassuring. Of course, that depends on nothing else going tits up! With that news and the fact I’s no idea how long we’d be stuck, there was only one thing to do. Find the bar car…
The delay’s annoying as I was looking forward to some spare time as Duisburg to get a few pictures before boarding another train. Now we’ll have to see. Right now we’ve just pulled into Hannover Hauptbahnhof at least 25 minutes down. The train’s getting even busier too. One or two have got off but far more are joining and, on my trip, back from the bar car I had to step over young people sitting in the vestibules.
22:00.
I’m now relaxing in my hotel in Rotterdam after completing the trip, so I’m resuming where I left off earlier. My eventual arrival in Duisberg was over 30 minutes late which was a great shame as it looks like a fascinating station to take pictures at. It’s old and untypical of many German stations as the mix of shops in the subway is a mix of the exotic and the down-market. It was also incredibly busy. I had enough time to grab something to eat, find my train and that was about it. The station reminds me of Crewe back in the UK. It shares the same levels of faded glory and decrepitude – but with better food!
I was hoping for a more relaxed train across the border to Arnhem, but it wasn’t to be. A pair of units turned up which were busy before they arrived and absolutely rammed when they left, but at least I managed to get a seat. I’ve not travelled on the lines around here or through Oberhausen for years, so I was rather taken about by how much weeds and bushes are taking over. Again, it reminded me of the UK, apart from the fact German railways are so much bigger. The amount of freight is staggering, but then Germany is still an industrialised nation – unlike the UK, where most of our comparable industries were run down during the Thatcher government years.
I changed trains yet again at Arnhem, a recently rebuilt station which (compared to Germany) has few facilities. A Dutch four car double-deck EMU arrived to take us forward but this was far too small for the numbers and left hopelessly overcrowded. I ended up standing in a vestibule all the way to Utrecht, where I changed for the final time. The next train was another hopelessly packed EMU where I had to stand almost all the way to Rotterdam. Both trains contained lots of young people heading for a night out in various places, which may have exacerbated the situation. On the bright side? Both trains were spot on time. The downside? They were all dirty and graffiti covered, not that it seems to put people off from using them.
People often make unfavorable comparisons between the UKs railways and those of Europe. I can only assume the majority of those people have never spent much (if any) time actually travelling in trains in Europe, because if they had they’d know what simplistic nonsense is talked. The UK network is far from perfect, but the trains are in far better condition than those of many EU countries and that applies to the stations too.
Right, I’m going to bring this blog to a close. It’s time for bed. There’ll be time for a lot more thought tomorrow, before my return to little Britain…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Miracle of miracles, my train into Berlin is actually on time today! Oh, and it’s a beautifully sunny morning to boot so all’s well with the world. Admittedly, I have a slightly fuzzy head after a night out with the ‘boys’ but it’s nothing that a couple of cups of coffee in the media centre won’t cure.
I’m looking forward to a freerer day at Innotrans now that most of my commissions are done. Well, that I know of anyway – you never know what might crop up. Either way, today should be a lot more relaxed than the past two.
I’m beginning to get used to this commuting malarky after catching the same train three days in a row. I’ve not gone for the classic commuter behaviour of always heading for ‘my’ seat but I’m starting to recognise a few regulars on the route.
13:50.
Joy of joys – my last launch is done. My services were farmed out to an EU rail organisation rebrand and launch which kept me occupied most of the morning. Now I’m off the leash and free to wander around outside. Here’s a few shots.
If you wander down to the bottom of the site, Schweerbau are fuelling a party with free beer and bratwurst!
There’s some serious kit on display here…
Liverpool Mayor Steve Rotherham at the launch of the new Stadler battery trains for Merseyrail. A bird’s eye view of some of the outdoor exhibits at Innotrans.
23:00.
The end of today turned in to a sociable one as I spent it catching up with friends from Siemens. Firstly Silke, who had tipped me off about the opportunity to get the photo shown above. We had a good catch-up on the huge Siemens stand. After the show closed I went out for dinner with Ellen and the pair of us had a great chin-wag about life, the universe and everything.
Now it’s nearly midnight, I’m back ‘home’ and ready to hit the sack before the final day of Innotrans. As yet, I’ve no commissions tomorrow so let’s see what I can get up to…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
German railways let me down again this morning. My inbound train was 25 mins late so I didn’t get to Innotrans until way after 09:00. First job was to check in with my clients and find out what’s happening today. Luckily their presentation (which is on another stand) is literally next door – I was fearing it’d be in a hall on the other side of the Messe!
Next port of call was the press centre where I’ve bumped into a large chunk of the UK trade press. Tips and gossip swapped and pictures downloaded it’s time to hit the halls…
Another busy day beckons…
13:10.
Finally, a chance to sit down for a few minutes before the next gig. The problem with Innotrans is that there are so many launch or other events you’re always running from one to the other. I had Hitachi Energy unveiling a new transformer back to back with Talgo hosting the Spanish transport minister who was having a look at one of their new coaches for DB. Next I have a joint UK-Saudi signing. Still, it’s kept me occupied. Here’s a few phone pictures
Here’s one of two UK pavilions. This one has a Welsh flavour and a plan of the new £250m test track that’s under construction It’s not just trains either. Transport needs to be integrated (and green). Here’s a new electric bus with a 450km range.
The countdown nears its end as Hitachi Energy prepare to unveil their new transformer that’s lighter and greener.
Don’t worry, there’ll be more trains soon!…
22:11.
Yet another day where my step count is getting silly! Right now I’m sat on the (late running -surprise, surprise) RER train to Frankfurt (Oder) after another great day. I still haven’t seen anywhere near enough of Innotrans but then I’ve been busy with various assignments. Then there’s the amount of people you bump into at random or by design. Innotrans is such a seminal event in the rail industry calender that almost everyone is here. It’s difficult to explain just what a vast event it is. A map doesn’t do it justice as it doesn’t give away the fact these huge exhibition buildings have several floors. I ended up recce’ing how long it would take me to get from one stand to another in a completely different building so that I knew I could do certain launches – hence one of the reasons for my step count.
We’re half way through the event so now I’m listing the trains/stands/people I’ve still not seen. Thankfully, my work calender should thin out a bit tomortow.
This evening I bunked off before the show closed as a bunch of us UK rail people had arranged to meet in the city centre for beers and food. The beers weren’t sobering but the reminiscing could be when we counted down the time and realised we’d been involved in group trips to Europe for 17 years – and I have the website pictures to prove it!
It wasn’t all a trip down memory lane, we had some new people join us which swelled our group to 13. It wasn’t a bad place to eat and drink either. It’s a bar in the railway arches West of Alexandetplatz that brews its own beer.
Apologies for not blogging before but it’s been a busy day and I didn’t want to start anything until I was on the train to Berlin.
It’s wonderful to be back in mainland Europe. I realise now how much I miss my time this side of the channel – for a whole host of reasons. It’s cleaner, the infrastructure’s modern, prices are cheaper and it just feels more relaxed.
Arrival…
The ferry trip from the UK was great and having a cabin felt very luxurious – a far cry from my old backpacking days when I’d have just curled up in a corner for a few hours. We arrived on time at the Hook of Holland, a place that’s changed hugely since I was last there. There’s no international trains anymore. In fact, the railway station has been made redundant. It houses a Japanese restaurant but no trains. Now the line’s become part of the Rotterdam metro but the new station’s unfinished. Instead there’s a temporary one which is a good 10 minute walk – which is ironic as the ferry stops right opposite – but then you walk down a very long gangway to get off and pass through customs and immigration to get questioned on the purpose of your visit and get your passport stamped (thanks for nothing, Brexiters).
The trip into central Rotterdam’s painless, if not particularly fast. It takes around 40 minutes. That said, it’s fascinating to see all the traffic in the docks as you pass. I bailed at xxxx station and elected to walk to Rotterdam Centraal which took me about 12 minutes. I calculated it because of my return trip where timings are tight. I now realise they’re too tight so plans are going to have to change.
Rotterdam was a doddle that time of day as the place hadn’t really woken up yet. Centraal station surprised me as it has a ticket gateline – something I’m used to in the UK but not in Germany. Otherwise the station’s typically European with a long subway lined with shops and eateries which provided me with a cheap breakfast.
The station architecture’s modern and quite striking. I’d several hours to wait for my train so spent the time wandering with the camera. Even though I had a suitcase in tow I still managed to get my daily step total in before I left. Those long platforms soon eat up 12,500 steps!
Big yellow taxi – my train from Rotterdam to Amersfoot to connect with DB’s Intercity train to Berlin.
My Dutch train left at 12:35, heading for Amersfoort Centraal. Travelling overland rather than flying was a lovely experience as I had the opportunity to appreciate how many waterways this part of the Netherlands contains. Homes backing onto a canal isn’t too unusual where I live in West Yorkshire but then I’m spoiled. Here everyone seems to have access to water. You even see blocks of flats on stilts that are surrounded by a lake. Plus, there’s not the scenes of dereliction so common back in the UK. Here, everything feels better maintained or renewed.
I did have a momentary feeling of ‘oh, shit’ when my train to Amersfoot was signal-checked and ran late. I had a 5 minute cross platform connection with the Berlin train. As it was, the pair of trains arrived at exactly the same time and the coach I had a reservation in pulled up almost opposite me!
Now I’m on IC147, a loco-hauled intercity service to Berlin Ostbahnhof where we’re due to arrive at 19:34 local time.
International intercity travel, old school German style.
16:10. (German time).
The trip was going really well (apart from the heavy showers, but hey – I’m on a train!) until we got to the Dutch/German border station of Bad Bentheim where we swapped locos and crews. Dutch engine 1765 was replaced by a DB ‘lok’ of unknown heritage. Well, for now anyway. The crew also changed nationality. The whole operation is meant to take seven minutes but with DBs crumbling edge of efficiency it took far, far longer, meaning we left 25 minutes late. No announcements were made either, we just started pulling away.
This delay means my connection at Berlin Ostbahnhof will be tight. I should have had 30 mins to connect with my train to Frankfurt (Oder) but that’s looking dodgy now. Never mind, I’m not going to let it worry me or spoil the trip.
Now we’re over the border Covid facemasks are mandatory on trains. It feels a little odd wearing one again but people are more relaxed about them than they were. Right now as well as enjoying the scenery I’m people watching. There’s a table opposite me containing four middle-aged women with a fifth friend behind. One of them has been to the restaurant car (at the back of the train for some reason) and stocked up on Bitburger beers! They’re now making merry but not messy…
16:33.
We’ve now left Osnabruck which has a large railway yard full of car transporters moving VW cars and vans around the country. There’s even a hump for sorting and shunting wagonload traffic – a sight that disappeared in the UK in the 1980s…
18:00.
We’ve now pulled out of Hannover and made up quite a bit of time. I was surprised to see that most of the occupants of my coach bailed out here but I’ve no idea why. Fair play to DB, I was wortied about the delay but they send you emails to keep you updated about connections. The latest one tells me we’ll be seven minutes late in Berlin which gives me plenty of time to make my connection. Thankfully, that connection will be made undercover as the weather’s gone to ratshit. We’re running under stormy skies and patches of heavy rain.
This rail trip highlights the great difference between the UK and Germany. Germany still makes stuff – hence all the railfreight yards I’m passing. The UK has become a service sector – which makes Brexit even more stupid. What tangible exports we had (mostly food and drink) are now hamstrung by red-tape. Germany? They have all of Europe and the world whilst we just posture.
19:00.
I tempted fate, didn’t I? I praised DBs emil system that let’s you know if your connections are up shit creek. Almost as soon as I’d mentioned it we came to a stand in the midfle of nowhere for no apparent reason. The latest helpful missive tells me we’re now running 40 mins late and my connection’s up the Swannee. Ho hum…
21:20.
Today’s been a long day! My express finally arrived into Berlin Ostbahnhof 50 minutes late, adding another hour to my schedule as my next onward train wasn’t until 21:04. I’m noow on another loco-hauled service made up of a rake of Double-Deck coaches. Even this train’s running five minutes late! I reckon I should get to my hotel around 22:30 and frankly, I’ll be quite happy to just crawl into bed and get some kip. The next few days are going to be hectic to say the least so recharging the batteties now whilst I can seems an eminently sensible idea.
Oh, a little aside. I’ve travelled all the way across Germany without once having my ticket checked..
22:50.
Finally! I’ve made it to my hotel care of this beastie.
I must admit, I wasn’t expecting a suite. Shame I’m not here longer, I could get used to this!
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
And we’re off! Well, I would been much earlier if I hadn’t been kicking my heels in Huddersfield for the past hour. As I’m handicapped by a suitcase and Dawn was driving in to Huddersfield so kindly offered to give me a lift I decided to head to Harwich this way.
What I hadn’t bargained on was Trans-Pennine Express excerable timetable. Forget the 5 trains an hour of the real timetable. Leeds are now hourly. I’d actually have been better sticking to Northern via Halifax. Ho hum…
Even so, i’m in no hurry. My ferry doesn’t leave Harwich until 23:00 so I’ve plenty of time to get there. Despite running such a wafer-thin service TPE still can’t run to time. The 12:10 arrived and left 7 minutes late. It’s a 6-car service that’s an all-stopper and it’s rammed. Some people have come from Manchester Airport with humongous suitcases which isn’t exactly helping.
Suitcase? I’ll bet my ferry will be carrying smaller life rafts!
13:07.
After the schlep from Huddersfield it’s a relief to be on LNER’s 13:05 from Leeds to Kings Cross. This is another busy train but I’ve managed to blag a table – for now anyway. The reservation system’s kaput so I might get turfed out at Wakefield or Doncaster.
14:05.
All’s well that ends well. Whilst we’ve picked up a load more passengers at both Wakefield and Doncaster no-one came forward to claim my table. Now we’ve just left Newark so it looks like I should be safe as far as my destination – Peterborough – as there’s plenty of spare capacity. I note from the news that people have been told not to travel to London to join the crowds queuing to pay their last respects to the Queen, so I don’t expect to encounter anyone on any of my trains today.
15:00.
Another train, another operator. Now I’ve swapped my fancy intercity ‘Azuma’ for an example of BRs finest “garden shed engineering” as the Class 158s were once described due to the many faults that bedevilled the first examples. Mine is one of East Midlands Railway’s fleet of 2-cars with high-backed seats but no USB or power-points, which is a retrograde step in this day and age.
My train arriving at the ‘new’ island platform at Peterborough en-route to Norwich having started from Sheffield at 12:45.The high-backed seats are comfortable but they do make the unit feel claustrophobic.
15:40.
I’m now kicking my heels for an hour at the sleepy little junction of Ely. There’s not much happening here of a Sunday, so the local Starling population has found a different use for the overhead wires.
16:45
I enjoyed my break at Ely. Even on a Sunday the station has both a shop and cafe on platform 1 that remain open so I had time for a ‘swifty’ and chance to get a few pictures before moving on. Now I’m on what’s regarded by many (including myself) as the best modern train on the UK network, the Stadler Class 755 bi-modes. Swiss engineering at its best. They’re comfortable, have level access, a variety of seating configurations and plug-sockets and USB ports at every seat. Their performance is just as good too, they shift like sh*t off the proverbial shovel!
Heading for Stowmarket…The smart, multi-level (and comfortable) seating aboard my Stadler train.
As you can see, this is a quiet train. A fair few got off at the newly reopened station at Soham which was good to see, otherwise this feels very much like a Sunday afternoon service.
18:45.
I’m getting closer to escaping…
I swapped trains yet again at Stowmarket, mainly for one purpose. I’ve always had an interest in railway architecture in general but signalboxes in particular and I’ve never managed a picture of the abandoned example at Stowmarket until now.
I only had a few minutes to wait before my next train which was a case of swapping to the Stadler 755s bigger Intercity brother to get me to Ipswich where I took another short photographic break and went from the sublime to the ridiculous. Greater Anglia has the best train fleets but it also has one of the worst. Yet it’s brand new – and units are still being delivered!
These things are bloody awful. I’m not overweight but even I struggle to make my way down the narrow aisles – not helped by the fact the grab-handles are so low they dig into your ribs and made the space even more constricted.
22:30.
Is that the time? Apologies for the blogging gap but I’ve always been on the move and sometimes it’s about experiencing things so that you can write about them later. Right now I’m sitting on the ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland waiting for departure time. I’ve not done this trip for so, so long. In fact the last time I did this the film they were showing was the then blockbuster ‘Flash Gordon’ with a soundtrack by Queen and the famous line from the actor Brian Blessed (delivered in his customary gusto) “Gordon’s alive!”. Gosh, so many things have changed since then. In those days I was hoping to make a home in Amsterdam with my girlfriend of the time. It never worked out but I’ve no regrets. It all seems like a different world. Mind you, so does this ferry. It’s massive compared to what I remember from those days. I’m on the ‘Stena Britannica’ and even have a cabin – but only because they’re mandatory nowadays. In the 1980s we used to get on as foot passengers and just curl up in a corner.
I arrived in Harwich in plenty of time and had chance to explore. It’s funny how things work out sometimes. I’d not been around this neck of the woods for years then end up here twice in the space of twelve months! Harwich Town’s a curious place that’s worth exploring because of it’s history and architecture, but like a lot of UK seaports it’s lost its mojo. The days of the train ferries are long gone. Now the port’s been eclipsed by Felixstowe due to the move to containerisation. Like this.
Looking across to Felixstowe from Harwich
Still, I’m looking forward to leaving Brexit Britain and the social and political museum the country’s fast becoming. The next week is going to be very different. And this ain’t a bad way to get there either..
One of several restaurants on board.I’ve not had a cabin on a ferry for years!
23:15.
We’ve left port and we’re on our way, so it’s time for me to sign off until tomorrow. See you on the other side as they say…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
We’ve a full day in London today and we’re about to head out and make the most of it. There’s very much a feeling of two cities right now. There’s the classic city with Londoners and tourists going about their normal lives and then there’s the other city which is coping with the late Queen lying in state until her state funeral Monday. Today we’ll be exploring both, so expect flow of pictures throughout the day…
10:40.
I nipped out to buy some snacks for breakfast whilst Dee gets ready. The Bayswater Rd is traffic free but you can tell you’re in ‘posh’ London as the local petrol station has a mini Waitrose supermarket rather than the usual Tesco! Petrol’s surprisingly cheap too. £1.63 a liter (we were seeing it at £1.75 in Norfolk last week). I nipped into Kensington Gardens to sit and watch the world go by for a while. Life appeared normal. The paths were full of runners and dog-walkers or tourists out for a stroll. Back at the hotel the TV announced that the ‘queue of queues’ as it’s becoming known is so long it’s been closed. Newcomers are being kept in holding pens in a park in Bermondsey and it’s been announced no-one else should try to join until after 4pm today! Somehow, I can’t see that happening…!
13:20.
Having wandered back down to Leicester Square then across the Thames at Charing Cross we’re now sitting outside the Founders Arms on the South Bank (one of our favorite spots) watching the queue of queues and enjoying a view of the river and city of London beyond.
15:21.
Crowdwatch – pt 2
22:15.
We’re now back at the hotel after yet another full day walking around London and experiencing what’s going on in the capital due to the death of Queen Elizabeth. It’s been a fascinating experience on so many levels. I’ll add more about this soon when I’ve more time to go into detail. But here’s a few shorts. As far as we could gauge (and we saw a lot of it) the queue was almost evenly balanced between genders. It was overwhelmingly older, with most folk over 30 years old – and also mostly white, although Asian communities were a significant minority with (from what we saw) the African and Afro-Caribbean less represented. It was also good-humored and stoic – despite the length of time. Here’s a few pictures from our observations.
A Pigeon decides to take a close look at the queue near Blackfriars.Ex-members of the armed services were much in evidence. Not everyone came with others. There was a significant number of people who came on their own to pay their respects. The queue by the Globe theatre with Tourists strolling past in the opposite direction. More medals on display…The queue by Tower Bridge. This was far from the end. Grandad and Grandson by HMS Belfast.Vanessa Feltz from Talk TV out interviewing members of the crowd.
Having walked for miles around the South bank we headed back to London Bridge and crossed to the North bank of the Thames for a wander past St Pauls, Fleet Street and the Inns of Court before heading up to Euston where we dropped into Drummond St to eat at an old haunt. Ravi Shankar is a long established Indian vegetarian restaurant which I’ve been frequenting since the 1990s. It didn’t disappoint..
Chana dahl.Uthappam – South Indian pizza!
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
After a slow morning at home, we’re finally on our way to London having travelled to Leeds to catch an LNER service to Kings Cross. Trains are surprisingly quiet today. Our 3-car Northern unit from Halifax was quieter than normal. As we pulled into Leeds we watched the 12:15 to the Cross depart with lots of empty seats. OK, it may fill up on its way South but then the station itself was far quieter than expected. Is everyone taking time off to stay at home and watch endless hours of TV about the royal funeral, or are people simply talking the time off anyway?
We caught the 12:45 to Kings Cross which was formed of a Mk4 set straight off Neville Hill depot. Propelled by Intercity liveried 91119 it was a substitute set for the scheduled working that should have been inbound from Kings Cross but that was cancelled due to a track circuit failure. This train is also empty. We’re in coach B (the quiet coach at the rear) with just half a dozen others. I’ll be interested to see how many get on at our intermediate stops of Wakefield, Doncaster and Peterborough.
91119 ready to push 1A30, LNERs 12:45 from Leeds to London Kings Cross.
14:00.
After our stops at Wakefield and Doncaster I had a wander through the train to the buffet and counted 85 passengers in Standard Class and around dozen in 1st. Stopping to chat to the crew they reminded me that today was meant to be a strike day which has clearly had an impact. Our fellow passengers are a mix. There’s one or two who look like they’re travelling for work but the majority are young single travellers (a surprising amount of whom are of SE Asian descent) plus one or two elderly couples – just the leaven the mix.
No worries about getting a seat on this service.
16:20.
We’ve arrived and checked-in to our hotel just off the Bayswater Rd. Now we’re getting ready to explore. We took a roundabout route via Farringdon and Paddington just so Dawn could have her first taste of the ‘Lizzie line’. London seems rather subdued and not as busy as I thought it might be. But then we’ve not hit the areas where the mourners are yet…
St Pancras Thameslink. Quieter than normal. On an Elizabeth line train to Paddington.
22:10.
Today’s been very much the tale of two cities. After dumping everything in our hotel we went for a walk through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, following the Serpentine. The parks weren’t busy, but a massive enclosure with screens was being set up in the N/E corner of Hyde Park with more portaloos than you could shake a stick at. I’m assuming this is to do with the funeral. Afterwards we went for something to eat at a Wagamama at the base of the Edgeware Rd. The restaurant was almost empty which was a real surprise.
Not how you expect to find a Wagamama just a stone’s throw from Marble Arch on a Thursday.Still, the food was good!
Bellies full of delicious food we caught a bus along Oxford St to Oxford Circus before wandering through Soho to Chinatown. These areas were absolutely packed. All the pubs had people spilling out into the streets and the atmosphere was anything but funereal.
Business as usual in Soho…– and in Chinatown…
It was only when we walked down to Charing Cross and across the Thames to the South bank that the atmosphere began to change. As we crossed the river we could see the queue of people who were going to pay their respects to the Queen, but it was moving very quickly and people were hardly nose to tail.
Ambling along the South bank we recrossed the Thames at Westminster bridge which was closed to traffic. It was very busy with people taking in the sights but the atmosphere was subdued, almost respectful. It was the same in Parliament Square. We lingered for a while so that Dawn could soak up the atmosphere before walking along Whitehall (also blocked to traffic) and back to Trafalgar Square.
The queue on the South Bank by Charing Cross bridge looking East.Parliament Square was busy, but the atmosphere was subdued. Still, it’s good to see the tower without scaffolding after so long swathed in the stuff.
From there the hardest thing to find was a pub that was selling decent beer. If I’m going to be paying £6.50 a pint I at least want something decent to drink – and a seat! Eventually, after several false starts we found a Sam Smiths pub called The White Horse on the corner of Rupert St and Archer St. It was a typical London corner boozer that was surprisingly quiet and ideal for a quick pint and chance to rest our feet.
We decided to eschew further refreshment stops and headed back to the hotel by bus after stopping at a supermarket to pick up supplies. We’ve walked miles, seen a lot and need time to relax and digest. Tomorrow’s another day…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
We’ve had an excellent week here in North Norfolk which has been made all the more enjoyable by the fact the weather’s been far better than was forecast. Oh, we’ve had a few thunderstorms and torrential rain, but the downpours have been during the night and the thunderstorms have merely added some dramatic skies as a backdrop. Now it’s time to pack the car and begin the trip back to West Yorkshire, although we’ll be taking the long way home as we’re in no rush. Besides, we have to be out of our accommodation by 10:00 so we have plenty of daylight to play with. Stay tuned to see what we get up to…
10:45.
We’re taking the scenic route along the coast from Cromer to Kings Lynn which is proving to be fun! Heavy rain has flooded the road in many places, especially at Cley next the sea.
Shortly afterwards we passed a new Landrover which had it and totalled someone’s car at a crossroads. Nasty…
11:45.
Having traversed the coast we made a pit-stop in Hunstanton at the site of the old railway station. There’s not a lot left.
We didn’t hang around. The weather’s cold and cloudy and the place is pretty deserted. We’re heading for Kings Lynn instead.
14:30.
Kings Lynn was far more interesting. The town has a fascinating collection of old buildings including the last remaining Hansatic league structure left in the UK.
Another interesting structure I had time to get shots of (thanks for stopping, Dawn) was the old rail/road swing bridge known as Cross Keys Bridge at Sutton Bridge.
The grade 2 listed Cross Keys Bridge was built in 1897 at a cost of £80,000. The nearest (Westbound) span was the one used by the Midland and Great Northern joint railway (M&GNR). Here’s a look down the old railway side.
20:45.
We’ve made it home finally after dodging some torrential rainstorms en-route. I’m beginning to hate the A17. Whilst traversing it on the way out we learned that the National Rail Awards was being postponed due to the rail strikes. This time on the way home we learned that the re-arranged awards was being postponed yet again (this time until October) due to the death of the Queen. Sadly, the revised date means that I’ll be unable to attend for the first time since 2003, but then so many things are up in the air right now.
The rest of the trip was uneventful – unless you count keeping out for people who really shouldn’t be let loose behind a steering wheel. The standards of driving we saw on the A1m, M1 and A616 (never mind in North Norfolk) was often awful. Thankfully we made it home in one piece. Mind you, it’s not just the standards of driving. I was looking at some of the stuff around the Queens funeral plans and came across this absolute gem of misinformation and sloppy journalism from @TimeOutTravel on Twitter. Not having checked any facts and having cribbed from 18 month old articles in newspapers they came up with this guff about the Royal Train being used to convey the Queen’s body from Scotland to London.
Thankfully, such a nightmare scenario has been avoided by flying the Queen’s body back from Scotland, much to the relief of ordinary passengers, rail staff and the British Transport Police. It’s bad enough when the general public cause chaos on the line as the ‘Flying Scotsman’ goes past. People throwing bunches of flowers onto 25,000 volt overhead wires on the East Coast Main Line or trespassing to do so doesn’t bear thinking about!
Over the next few days I’ll be catching up with editing all the pictures that I’ve taken over the past week. There’s not a huge amount as I’ve mostly been on holiday (honest!). Even so, there’s enough to keep myself and viewers occupied. I’ll post links to my Zenfolio website when they’re viewable.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 