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Paul Bigland

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Paul Bigland

Category Archives: Food and drink

The grand tour. Day 11. Vilnius to Warsaw.

18 Friday Sep 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Architecture, Food and drink, Lithuania, Photography, Railways, The Grand Tour, Travel

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Architecture, europe, Food and drink, History, Lithuania, Photography, poland, Railways, Travel, warsaw

Typical! The day the rain stops is the day I’m on the move again!

I was woken early this morning by the sound of military jets in the skies above Vilnius. It’s easy to forget that the Lithuanian capital is only a few miles away from Belarus, part of Russia. The Russians have been getting increasingly aggressive in their attitude towards NATO countries. Sending drones and sabotage teams over various countries borders. The idea that Putin is no threat is not one that’s held in the Baltic states. The Ukrainian flag is on display everywhere around town. Even the buses carry this message on their PIS screens.

As my train didn’t didn’t leave until 12:20 I had time to have another wander around the old town, only this time in the sunshine. Here’s a couple of pictures.

I do love a good market and this one in the old town is redolent with the smell of smoked meats, pickles and spices.
Many buildings could do with some TLC. Plenty are receiving it – just not this one, yet.
My train to Warsaw, which is of the same type that’s taken me all the way from the Estonian border, through Latvia to here. This particular services runs all the way to Krakow, via Warsaw with a change of train at Mockava.

14:05.

We’ve stopped twice on the trip so far. First at the busy junction and freight yards at Kaunas, where we picked up so many passengers that we’re almost full – then at the small town and junction of Kazlų Rūda. My table bay of four now has three occupants, of which I’m one. But, I have a window seat, a power socket and wifi, so I’m content. We’re gradually leaving the built up and more industrial areas behind to head out across open fields, which makes a change as the railways in this part of the world are often hemmed in by trees. I’ve just watched a pair of deer bound away from the tracks!

My fellow passengers seem to be mostly locals of all ages with a smattering of older travellers like me. The atmosphere is relaxed and the two young women stewards both helpful and efficient.

We’ve just called at the wonderfully ornate station at Marijampole. The station building is a delight. The area also boasts extensive freight yards full of grain wagons (there’s some massive grain silos here) and tank wagons – although I haven’t got a clue what they carry. Lithuanian railways are fascinating as (unlike the UK) most industrial sites still have a rail connection. Some are disused, but they still exist.

15:25.

We arrived at Mockava Spot on time. A swift cross platform interchange saw us go from a crowded 3-car multiple unit to a far more expansive locomotive hauled train run by Polish railways (PKP).

14:45.

We’re currently stopped at Kierunek, where a posse of Polish Immigration officers and military have checked everyone’s passports. We’re in the territory of the Suwalki gap, which has gained greater significance since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

16:15.

Polish railways are like stepping back in time. We’ve not seen anything like this in the UK since the 1980s. Imagine a loco-hauled train of half a dozen coaches – one of which is a buffet car! Said buffet car serves freshly cooked meals from pans. None of this ‘prick and ping’ microwave stuff! At Suwalki we stopped for a good 20 minutes so the the engine could run round the train. Now we’re bowling through the countryside along a railway followed by telegraph poles.

The buffet car counter on my Polish train.
Arrived. We had an engine change from diesel to electric at Bialystok where this modern EU160 was attached for the final leg.

It took me 25 minutes to walk to my hotel in central Warsaw, partly because the place was packed with people. It being Friday night a lot of young people were out on the town. The city certainly seems to have a vibrant nightlife, although as a solo traveller that’s not something I’m partaking of. Instead, it was a trip to the local Lidl to stock up on food for the kitchenette I share with another room at the hotel, have a video call with Dawn, then work at my desk sorting out pictures. Unfortunately, the hotel wifi’s a bit flaky, which is hindering these updates. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

The grand tour. Day 8. All about Riga.

15 Tuesday Sep 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Architecture, Food and drink, latvia, Photography, Railways, Transport

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Architecture, europe, Food and drink, History, latvia, Photography, Railways, Travel

For the first time on this trip I’ve not actually been travelling anywhere. Instead I’ve had a full day in Riga. I have to say I’ve been really impressed with the city. There’s so much to see and do here. It has fantastic architecture, a huge market (both indoor and outdoor) and a really interesting transport network which includes trams, trains and trollybuses. There’s far too much to mention in a blog, so today’s is going to be picture based.

There’s a huge outdoor market in central Riga where stallholders sell fruit and veg, clothing and bric-a-brac.
Inside one of the Riga Central Market halls. There’s five of these large buildings (although a couple are now empty) which were constructed in 1930 from old Zepplin sheds.
Integreted transport as a train passes the coach terminal.
The new standard gauge Rail Baltica station takes shape next to the existing Riga railway station.
Architecture in the old town.
The Freedom Monument. A 42m tall statue dedicated to Latvians who lost their lives fighting for independence between 1918 & 1920.
Soldiers on duty at the Freedom monument. 6 of them rotate the duty, doing one hour on and two hours off.
The old town is a Baroque delight!

I’m back on the move again tomorrow, heading to Vilnius in Lithuania where I’ll be taking another break.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

7th September picture of the day…

07 Monday Sep 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Picture of the day, Travel, West Yorkshire

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Musings, Photography, Picture of the day, Travel, West Yorkshire

I’ve been back in Halifax since Saturday but tonight’s my last night for a while. Tomorrow morning I start my ‘grand tour’ of Europe (North and South) so I’ve been busy catching up on various activities back home whilst I can. Sadly, the rainy weather put the kibosh on some of the outdoor DIY jobs I’d planned. Let’s face it, repointing and wet weather don’t really mix! Still, we managed to get a few indoor jobs done to begin getting the cottage ready for the winter. Winter – God, what a thought. Admittedly, the nights are already drawing in but I’m not in the mindset to contemplate those long cold winter nights just yet!

Instead I got into cooking mode, something I’m not going to be doing for a while. Whilst Dawn was busy with her parents and various appointments I nipped out to get my daily steps in and pick up various items of shopping. Back home I first prepared a dish that will go straight into the freezer for Dee to enjoy whilst I away. Cucumber curry! Yes, I know it sounds weird, but it’s actually a simple but stunning dish. Here’s the ingredients prepped ready for cooking.

Having that one under my belt I moved on to tonight’s evening meal. Seabass in a Lemon, Basil and Vermouth sauce, served with peas and spinach. The vermouth adds a wonderful flavour to the fish without overpowering it whilst the spinach and peas add an ideal veggie accompaniment.

Now it’s time for a quiet night her at Bigland Towers as I prep for an early start. Tomorrow will see me travelling down to Dover by train before getting a ferry from Dover to Calais. Hopefully the black-clad, balaclava-wearing morons pretending to be ‘patriots’ will be bothering someone else and not buggering up ordinary people’s travel plans. I’ll be ending the day by catching a train from Calais to Lille where I’ll be spending the night. Whilst I’ve passed through many times recently I’ve not spent any time in Lille for 20 odd years, when I was working their for a company supplying train simulators, so I’m looking forward to getting reacquainted.

After that – wait and see. I’ll be doing a daily rolling blog (internet permitting) which means the next few weeks blogs will have plenty of variety (and countries) on offer!

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

27th July pictures of the day…

27 Monday Jul 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Photography, Picture of the day, Preston, Railways, Travel

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Food and drink, Photography, Picture of the day, Preston, Railways, Travel

Today I escaped from Southport – albeit briefly, through an excursion to Preston care of my eldest brother, John. He was driving over to do some shopping and checking out parking for a future excursion with his kids, so I joined him for the ride. We don’t see much of each other nowadays as our lives have diverged, but John was a huge support for me and for Lynn towards the end of her life.

Before John picked me up I’d time to check out what was going on with the railway line to Wigan. The line’s closed until Saturday due to engineering work at Parbold, but Network Rail have take the opportunity to chop back a lot of trees and bushes along the line in Southport between the site of the old St Lukes station and Meols Cop. The work certainly needs doing. This is why. Here’s how it looked in 2003.

Here’s the same area today, with an RRV trimming back the extensive tree growth that’s hidden the nearby houses completely.

The trip out to Preston was rather fun. I’ve never really explored the city that much, despite visiting on a regular basis over recent years. This time I got to see different sides of the town, including the ‘old’ (or rather rebuilt) market, which had a great Indian food stall as well as some excellent butchers and fruit and veg stalls.

Great curries, both veg and non-veg, and the Samosas are exellent.
Quality fruit and veg in Preston market.

As we were only a stone’s throw away it would have been rude not to visit a fantastic CAMRA national inventory pub – the grade 2 listed Black Horse for a ‘swifty’. The interior is stunning. Here’s some of the detail around the bar.

Now I’m back in Southport, drying off after getting a soaking. I’d made the mistake of walking into town, thinking the rain that had been forecast was never going to arrive. Bad move! It waited for me to begin walking back! Still, I’m not complaining, at least we’re getting rain – unlike a lot of the country.

Tomorrow I’ll be taking another trip out of Southport. This time to Parbold to (hopefully) have a look at the railway engineering work. Depending on other events I may make it a round trip via Wigan and Liverpool. We’ll see…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Devon days. Part 4…

12 Friday Jun 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Devon, Food and drink, History, Photography, Railways, Travel

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Food and drink, History, Photography, Railways, Travel

The weather finally let us down on Thursday. The rain stayed with us for most of the day with the skies remaining leaden throughout. We even had sea mist nearer the coast, so the plan for a long walk went out of the window. Instead, Clive drove us all to Hartland Quay, a former harbour near the north-western tip of the Devon coast. It’s famous for its rcky outcrops and rough seas, which we had a small taste of. There’s also a hotel and pub, which we took refuge in to enjoy a hot drink and chips after being battered by the wind. The rock formations here are amazing and well worth seeing.

The sea shows off its power.

Our next stop was somewhat more eccentric. The Merry Harriers garden centre, which features something I’ve never encountered before. A Gnome garden! No that wasn’t a typo – it really is a garden full of gnomes – of all different shapes, sizes and poses!

Heading back to base afterwards the rest of the team relaxed whilst I went for another wander into Bideford, where I crossed the river and popped in to the old railway station which is the base of the Bideford railway heritage centre. The group have reinstated a short length of track and have a small Planet diesel locomotive and a brake van which they plan to give rides on.

The old signalbox has been restored, along with a old SR parcels van and a Mk1 coach which is used as a cafe.

The day was rounded off with a visit to a restaurant and bar in nearby Northam. The Crow Bar has only been open for 9 weeks. It’s modern feel and variety of seating makes it an interesting venue. The food is tapas based with the beers locally sourced. The owner has installed their own micro-brewery which isn’t in production at the moment but will be opening just as soon as time permits. We really enjoyed our visit. The food was excellent as was the atmosphere.

A view of the main area and bar which has a mezzanine floor above containing comfy seating.
The Spanish style croquettes.
Today’s special was a delicious Trout.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Devon days. Part 3…

11 Thursday Jun 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Devon, Food and drink, Photography, Railways, Travel, Walking

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Devon, Food and drink, hiking, History, Photography, Railways, Travel, Walking

Our third day in Devon was less about trekking and more about touring – although we still managed an old railway walk! Clive drove the three of us over to Tavistock, a lovely old town neither Dawn nor I had ever visited before. Tavi’ has a fantastic indoor market which is well worth a visit. It certainly separated us from some money!

Tavistock once had two railway lines serving the town. Both have been closed. Tavistock South was on a line from Plymouth owned by the Great Western Railway whilst Tavistock North was part of the London and South Western Railway. The LSWR was built above the town, which it crossed on on a high viaduct. This is now part of a cycle and walking trail which offers good views across town.

Moving on from Tavi we had a tour of Dartmoor which is reminiscent of North Yorkshire. After which we called in at Okehampton, where the town was restored to the national railway network in 2021. Here’s a few pictures from our travels…

Inside Tavistock’s Pannier market. There’s a great selection of stalls selling all sorts of stuff, old and new…
Need a guitar or ukulele?
Bob’s East End cafe in the Pannier market. A great place for an all day breakfast at very reasonable prices.
The LSWR viaduct in central Tavi was completed in 1890. It’s 420ft (128m) long and is made up of eight spans; five of 50ft (15m) and three of 32ft, (10m) with a height of 70ft (21m) to the road below. The old station is behind the camera but access is restricted as it’s now a private dwelling.
The view from the viaduct looking over town.
Walking along the old line. The trackbed has been raised in many places. – hence the low height of the overbridge.
Dartmoor. You can see why they built a prison up here…
Okehampton station has been restored and repainted in Southern railway colours, although…
The Great Western Railway had the last laugh as the current train service to Exeter is operated by the GWR franchise – until it’s absorbed into the nationalised Great British Railways anyway…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Off for a butchers…

15 Sunday Mar 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Politics, Railways, West Yorkshire

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Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Politics, Railways, Travel, West Yorkshire

Another week flies by! After my day out on Wednesday, Thursday was very different. The weather turned wet, windy and cold, making walking through the local woodland ‘interesting’ to say the least. The amount of broken branches and twig detritus would have kept a wood-burner going for weeks. Stupidly, I timed my daily stroll to coincide with the arrival of a rainstorm so it turned into a very soggy experience. After that, I decided discretion was the better part of valour and hunkered down for the evening at home.

Friday’s been a little different. Sunshine appeared and as Dawn was out for the day I decided to head over to Todmorden to restock our freezer from the excellent butchers in the delightful covered market – and to get a few pictures. It sounded like a great idea but the weather decided not to play ball. We may have had sunshine, but we also had Baltic winds, showers and the threat of snow which cut my trip short.

There were a couple of freight services scheduled to pass through whilst I was there so I braved the conditions just long enough to grab some shots.

66712 thunders through Todmorden station with another load of biomass for Drax power station which has been imported from North America via Liverpool docks.
Meanwhile, in the opposite direction, DB’s 66078 hauls the empty ‘binliner’ service from Wilton (Teeside) to Knowsley just outside Liverpool.

Having decided frostbite was over-rated I gave up photography and headed for the warmth of the market to enjoy a pint in the refurbished pub, the Todmorden Market Tavern before catching a train back to Halifax. You can’t grumble when you can get an excellent pint of real ale for just £3.40!

A quiet pint for now but this place can get very busy indeed…

Back home I called in my local for a ‘swifty’ and to give my apologies for the quiz that evening, then headed home to cook some of what I’d bought – spicy lamb koftas. I’ve found a gorgeous recipe which I tried for the first time the other week. (spicy lamb kofta with spiced chickpeas and bulgar wheat). We’ve found that you don’t really need the bulgar wheat as the rest is filling enough, and the ready made kofta from the butchers fit the dish perfectly. Next time I must remember to take a picture of it before we tuck in!

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Bigland Towers annexe. Days 7 and 8 …

24 Saturday Jan 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Photography, Railways, Travel, West Yorkshire

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Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Railways, Travel, West Yorkshire

Typical! Just as we’re packing up to return home tomorrow, the weather picks up! Friday started optimistically enough. The skies were cloudy but the weather was dry, so I headed out with the camera in the hope of photographing some different railfreight flows. I should’ve know better! Almost as soon as I got to my favoured location atop a bridge overlooking Hall Royd junction the rain and sleet started. I managed a couple of shots, including this one of a Liverpool Docks to Drax power station loaded biomass train before the light was so low and the rain so miserable that I gave up.

GBRf’s 66755 powers a trailing load of 2400t through Todmorden, heading for Drax power station in shitty weather.

Despite the weather I was determined to have a wander and at least get my daily steps in – even if photography was a bust. It was a shame as there’s some really interesting backstreets and odd buildings I’d like to photograph. West Yorkshire’s blessed with many odd-shaped dwelling which follow strange footprints so have weird shapes. God know how you fit furniture in rooms that mirror New York’s famous ‘flatiron’ building.

Finally defeated, I called in for a pint and a warm in what’s become our local pub here, the ‘Alehouse’. I enjoyed a pleasant interlude chatting to staff and customers alike about local life and international politics. As you can imagine, Donald Trump’s latest mad utterances and disrespect of British army service men and women who fought in Iraq and Afghanistan was causing a lot of anger.

– and relax…

Back ‘home’ I took time off before Dawn finished work, when the two of us wandered back into town to reprise our great Thai meal at the Three Wise Monkeys. We’d enjoyed the fish dishes we’d had so much that we ordered exactly the same again, only this time accompanied by deliciously crisp stir-fry veg in a delicious sauce.

Suitably stuffed, we stopped for one last drink at the Alehouse before returning home, where our feline charge ‘Luna’ decided to have a mad half-hour, zooming around the place like she’d discovered a secret stash of catnip!

Today’s been our last full day, so the weather’s taunted us with the promise of better things – if only we could stay. We’ve made the most of it by walking into town to hit the market, which has become a firm favorite. Whilst the indoor section remains unchanged Saturday’s the day the outdoor section changes from bric-a-brac to food, with a wide range of fruit and veg, artisan breads and cakes and other edible delights on offer.

We stocked up on a host of things, including excellent home-made sausages from Fieldings butchers.

Here’s my weakness. A cheese shop!

After the market, Dawn wanted to check out a spiritual shop, so whilst she did that I had one last chance to explore with the camera as the sun played across the town, creating interesting opportunities with shadows and light.

A break in the clouds allowed the sun to illuminate the frontage of the grade 1 listed Tod town hall, seen from the cobbled Water St.

We’ll miss Todmorden. We’ve both seen it in a new light after spending so much time here. It’s a town with a lot to offer and it’s in a great location at the junction of two valleys surrounded by some great hill walks. But, as we only live up the road, we’ll certainly be coming here more often in the future.

Of course, we’ll also miss the feline person we came here to look after – ‘Luna’, who’s proved to be a delightful charge.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Bigland Towers annexe. Days 5 and 6 …

22 Thursday Jan 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Architecture, Food and drink, Photography, Railways, Travel, West Yorkshire

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Architecture, Food, Food and drink, life, Musings, Photography, Travel, West Yorkshire

The weather’s really cramped my style here in Todmorden as it’s been bloody awful these past couple of days. My plans to get in some walking up on the valley tops have been frustrated by rain and low cloud that’s made it pointless. I’d have spent my time slipping around in the mist for nothing.

Instead, much of yesterday was spent working from home, editing the pictures I’d taken so far whilst sorting out others for future magazine articles and blogs. The weather’s been no better today as the rain’s been almost a constant companion. Even so, I decided to get out for the day, explore more of Todmorden and get a few pictures. Here’s the results.

I spotted these buildings at the back of some large Victorian houses a few days ago but couldn’t get pictures due to cars parked in the way. I took me a while to realise that they’re ornate sheds that combined a coal store (hence the wooden hatch) and an outside toilet. They were probably still in use as both up until the 1950s. It was only after the war that the new Labour government started funding home improvements that allowed people to install indoor bathrooms. Central heating to replace coal fires wouldn’t have been common until the 1970s.
Unlike most West Yorkshire mill towns sho’s economy was wool based, Todmorden was a cotton town. It’s hard to imagine how it looked in Victorian times when there were 110 mills here!
Today the daily empty ‘binliner’ from Teeside to Knowsley (Liverpool) was hauled by a smart looking 66011. I didn’t hang around after getting this shot as the weather was too miserable!
Thursday is ‘tat’ day on Todmorden market with stalls selling bric-a-brac, old tools, clothing plus books and CDs.
It was business as usual in the indoor market. This is our favourite butchers (one of several in the market). Nick Fielden is this butchers name. They have an excellent range of home-made sausages which we’ve been busy sampling. Their lamb Koftas aren’t bad either. We’ll be stocking up on supplies to take home with us before we leave. There’s also a cracking cheese shop nearby.
Exchange coffee Co is a very popular stall with an great range of coffees from around the world. Drink in or take out – or buy in bulk…
Dawson’s in a classic old hardware shop and stall of the sort men especially love to mooch around or admire.
For a town of its size, Todmorden has more than its fair share of antique or arts and crafts shops, along with bookshops, making it an enjoyable place to wander around.

Sadly, tomorrow’s weather forecast is no better so I can’t see me getting into the hills at all. Instead I’ll try and get pictures of some of the more interesting buildings here. Then, once Dawn’s finished work we’ll be heading out for a couple of drinks and another excellent Thai meal. It’s a hard life!

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Bigland Towers annexe. Day 1…

17 Saturday Jan 2026

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Politics, Travel, West Yorkshire

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Food and drink, Musings, Photography, Politics, Travel, West Yorkshire

Welcome to the first day of our Todmorden sojourn whilst we become surrogate humans to ‘Luna’, our friends young cat. I’ll post a picture of Luna when she finally sits still long enough for me to get one. That may take some time as she’s a young thing – little more than a kitten – although you wouldn’t think that from her size! She’s also just getting used to me being in her space.

Cute…

Dawn went off to do other things this morning, so I caught the train over to Todmorden in order to be ready for feeding time, after which I ventured into town to explore. ‘Tod’ as it’s known to locals isn’t unfamiliar to me. I’ve spent plenty of time here in the past, but that’s always been in transit. Being based here’s a little different.

The town has a curious vibe as it’s an odd mix. There’s the bohemian/old hippy element that’s a spin-off from nearby Hebden Bridge then there’s an undertow of old far-right racism and ‘flag-shagging’. Years ago, when far-right British National Party (BNP) membership list was leaked by an insider Todmorden had an unhealthy number of names attached.

Despite that, the town does have a lot to offer. It has a great market – both indoor and outdoor. Whilst the outdoor offerings change depending on the day, the indoor market has its regulars. There’s few tat stalls, instead it’s a mix of cafes, butchers, sweetshops and grocers. Just how a market should be.

The indoor market.

Tod’s at the junction of two valleys and two rivers. Just outside the market where the two join I spotted this Heron waiting patiently to catch its next meal…

Like many towns, Tod’s changed. A lot of old pubs have closed in recent years which is a shame, but then the place had plenty of them.

Another one bites the dust…

Some have been replaced by micro-pubs based in former shops, which appear to be doing rather well. I visited two, both of which had different characters. The first was the Alehouse on the Burnley Rd, a short walk from the town centre. It has both indoor and outdoor seating. There’s a good range of real ales (although other inebriants are available) and the staff are both friendly and helpful. It feels very much a local pub that’s a meeting point for the community, although strangers like me are made to feel welcome. What I found interesting was the range of accents. Todmorden’s part of West Yorkshire, but it’s borderline Lancashire (in the past its moved counties) and only a few miles from Burnley, so there was a real mix of Lancashire and Yorkshire accents on offer from the folk frequenting the place. Oh, and dogs. It’s a very dog friendly pub – not that the dogs are always friendly with each other!

Moving on into the centre to look for possible places to eat I stumbled across another micro-pub, ‘The Beer Necessities’ which is set back on a cobbled Water Street. This is another long and narrow converted shop on two levels, with a disabled toilet on the lower of the two. The clientele seemed to cover a greater age spectrum than the Alehouse, but that could just be its proximity to the town centre. The atmosphere was really good and its certainly a place I’d visit again.

To be continued…

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