Our third day in Devon was less about trekking and more about touring – although we still managed an old railway walk! Clive drove the three of us over to Tavistock, a lovely old town neither Dawn nor I had ever visited before. Tavi’ has a fantastic indoor market which is well worth a visit. It certainly separated us from some money!
Tavistock once had two railway lines serving the town. Both have been closed. Tavistock South was on a line from Plymouth owned by the Great Western Railway whilst Tavistock North was part of the London and South Western Railway. The LSWR was built above the town, which it crossed on on a high viaduct. This is now part of a cycle and walking trail which offers good views across town.
Moving on from Tavi we had a tour of Dartmoor which is reminiscent of North Yorkshire. After which we called in at Okehampton, where the town was restored to the national railway network in 2021. Here’s a few pictures from our travels…
Inside Tavistock’s Pannier market. There’s a great selection of stalls selling all sorts of stuff, old and new…Need a guitar or ukulele?Bob’s East End cafe in the Pannier market. A great place for an all day breakfast at very reasonable prices. The LSWR viaduct in central Tavi was completed in 1890. It’s 420ft (128m) long and is made up of eight spans; five of 50ft (15m) and three of 32ft, (10m) with a height of 70ft (21m) to the road below. The old station is behind the camera but access is restricted as it’s now a private dwelling.The view from the viaduct looking over town. Walking along the old line. The trackbed has been raised in many places. – hence the low height of the overbridge. Dartmoor. You can see why they built a prison up here…Okehampton station has been restored and repainted in Southern railway colours, although…The Great Western Railway had the last laugh as the current train service to Exeter is operated by the GWR franchise – until it’s absorbed into the nationalised Great British Railways anyway…
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Another week flies by! After my day out on Wednesday, Thursday was very different. The weather turned wet, windy and cold, making walking through the local woodland ‘interesting’ to say the least. The amount of broken branches and twig detritus would have kept a wood-burner going for weeks. Stupidly, I timed my daily stroll to coincide with the arrival of a rainstorm so it turned into a very soggy experience. After that, I decided discretion was the better part of valour and hunkered down for the evening at home.
Friday’s been a little different. Sunshine appeared and as Dawn was out for the day I decided to head over to Todmorden to restock our freezer from the excellent butchers in the delightful covered market – and to get a few pictures. It sounded like a great idea but the weather decided not to play ball. We may have had sunshine, but we also had Baltic winds, showers and the threat of snow which cut my trip short.
There were a couple of freight services scheduled to pass through whilst I was there so I braved the conditions just long enough to grab some shots.
66712 thunders through Todmorden station with another load of biomass for Drax power station which has been imported from North America via Liverpool docks.Meanwhile, in the opposite direction, DB’s 66078 hauls the empty ‘binliner’ service from Wilton (Teeside) to Knowsley just outside Liverpool.
Having decided frostbite was over-rated I gave up photography and headed for the warmth of the market to enjoy a pint in the refurbished pub, the Todmorden Market Tavern before catching a train back to Halifax. You can’t grumble when you can get an excellent pint of real ale for just £3.40!
A quiet pint for now but this place can get very busy indeed…
Back home I called in my local for a ‘swifty’ and to give my apologies for the quiz that evening, then headed home to cook some of what I’d bought – spicy lamb koftas. I’ve found a gorgeous recipe which I tried for the first time the other week. (spicy lamb kofta with spiced chickpeas and bulgar wheat). We’ve found that you don’t really need the bulgar wheat as the rest is filling enough, and the ready made kofta from the butchers fit the dish perfectly. Next time I must remember to take a picture of it before we tuck in!
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Typical! Just as we’re packing up to return home tomorrow, the weather picks up! Friday started optimistically enough. The skies were cloudy but the weather was dry, so I headed out with the camera in the hope of photographing some different railfreight flows. I should’ve know better! Almost as soon as I got to my favoured location atop a bridge overlooking Hall Royd junction the rain and sleet started. I managed a couple of shots, including this one of a Liverpool Docks to Drax power station loaded biomass train before the light was so low and the rain so miserable that I gave up.
GBRf’s 66755 powers a trailing load of 2400t through Todmorden, heading for Drax power station in shitty weather.
Despite the weather I was determined to have a wander and at least get my daily steps in – even if photography was a bust. It was a shame as there’s some really interesting backstreets and odd buildings I’d like to photograph. West Yorkshire’s blessed with many odd-shaped dwelling which follow strange footprints so have weird shapes. God know how you fit furniture in rooms that mirror New York’s famous ‘flatiron’ building.
Finally defeated, I called in for a pint and a warm in what’s become our local pub here, the ‘Alehouse’. I enjoyed a pleasant interlude chatting to staff and customers alike about local life and international politics. As you can imagine, Donald Trump’s latest mad utterances and disrespect of British army service men and women who fought in Iraq and Afghanistan was causing a lot of anger.
– and relax…
Back ‘home’ I took time off before Dawn finished work, when the two of us wandered back into town to reprise our great Thai meal at the Three Wise Monkeys. We’d enjoyed the fish dishes we’d had so much that we ordered exactly the same again, only this time accompanied by deliciously crisp stir-fry veg in a delicious sauce.
Suitably stuffed, we stopped for one last drink at the Alehouse before returning home, where our feline charge ‘Luna’ decided to have a mad half-hour, zooming around the place like she’d discovered a secret stash of catnip!
Today’s been our last full day, so the weather’s taunted us with the promise of better things – if only we could stay. We’ve made the most of it by walking into town to hit the market, which has become a firm favorite. Whilst the indoor section remains unchanged Saturday’s the day the outdoor section changes from bric-a-brac to food, with a wide range of fruit and veg, artisan breads and cakes and other edible delights on offer.
We stocked up on a host of things, including excellent home-made sausages from Fieldings butchers.
Here’s my weakness. A cheese shop!
After the market, Dawn wanted to check out a spiritual shop, so whilst she did that I had one last chance to explore with the camera as the sun played across the town, creating interesting opportunities with shadows and light.
A break in the clouds allowed the sun to illuminate the frontage of the grade 1 listed Tod town hall, seen from the cobbled Water St.
We’ll miss Todmorden. We’ve both seen it in a new light after spending so much time here. It’s a town with a lot to offer and it’s in a great location at the junction of two valleys surrounded by some great hill walks. But, as we only live up the road, we’ll certainly be coming here more often in the future.
Of course, we’ll also miss the feline person we came here to look after – ‘Luna’, who’s proved to be a delightful charge.
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The weather’s really cramped my style here in Todmorden as it’s been bloody awful these past couple of days. My plans to get in some walking up on the valley tops have been frustrated by rain and low cloud that’s made it pointless. I’d have spent my time slipping around in the mist for nothing.
Instead, much of yesterday was spent working from home, editing the pictures I’d taken so far whilst sorting out others for future magazine articles and blogs. The weather’s been no better today as the rain’s been almost a constant companion. Even so, I decided to get out for the day, explore more of Todmorden and get a few pictures. Here’s the results.
I spotted these buildings at the back of some large Victorian houses a few days ago but couldn’t get pictures due to cars parked in the way. I took me a while to realise that they’re ornate sheds that combined a coal store (hence the wooden hatch) and an outside toilet. They were probably still in use as both up until the 1950s. It was only after the war that the new Labour government started funding home improvements that allowed people to install indoor bathrooms. Central heating to replace coal fires wouldn’t have been common until the 1970s.Unlike most West Yorkshire mill towns sho’s economy was wool based, Todmorden was a cotton town. It’s hard to imagine how it looked in Victorian times when there were 110 mills here! Today the daily empty ‘binliner’ from Teeside to Knowsley (Liverpool) was hauled by a smart looking 66011. I didn’t hang around after getting this shot as the weather was too miserable! Thursday is ‘tat’ day on Todmorden market with stalls selling bric-a-brac, old tools, clothing plus books and CDs. It was business as usual in the indoor market. This is our favourite butchers (one of several in the market). Nick Fielden is this butchers name. They have an excellent range of home-made sausages which we’ve been busy sampling. Their lamb Koftas aren’t bad either. We’ll be stocking up on supplies to take home with us before we leave. There’s also a cracking cheese shop nearby. Exchange coffee Co is a very popular stall with an great range of coffees from around the world. Drink in or take out – or buy in bulk…Dawson’s in a classic old hardware shop and stall of the sort men especially love to mooch around or admire. For a town of its size, Todmorden has more than its fair share of antique or arts and crafts shops, along with bookshops, making it an enjoyable place to wander around.
Sadly, tomorrow’s weather forecast is no better so I can’t see me getting into the hills at all. Instead I’ll try and get pictures of some of the more interesting buildings here. Then, once Dawn’s finished work we’ll be heading out for a couple of drinks and another excellent Thai meal. It’s a hard life!
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Welcome to the first day of our Todmorden sojourn whilst we become surrogate humans to ‘Luna’, our friends young cat. I’ll post a picture of Luna when she finally sits still long enough for me to get one. That may take some time as she’s a young thing – little more than a kitten – although you wouldn’t think that from her size! She’s also just getting used to me being in her space.
Cute…
Dawn went off to do other things this morning, so I caught the train over to Todmorden in order to be ready for feeding time, after which I ventured into town to explore. ‘Tod’ as it’s known to locals isn’t unfamiliar to me. I’ve spent plenty of time here in the past, but that’s always been in transit. Being based here’s a little different.
The town has a curious vibe as it’s an odd mix. There’s the bohemian/old hippy element that’s a spin-off from nearby Hebden Bridge then there’s an undertow of old far-right racism and ‘flag-shagging’. Years ago, when far-right British National Party (BNP) membership list was leaked by an insider Todmorden had an unhealthy number of names attached.
Despite that, the town does have a lot to offer. It has a great market – both indoor and outdoor. Whilst the outdoor offerings change depending on the day, the indoor market has its regulars. There’s few tat stalls, instead it’s a mix of cafes, butchers, sweetshops and grocers. Just how a market should be.
The indoor market.
Tod’s at the junction of two valleys and two rivers. Just outside the market where the two join I spotted this Heron waiting patiently to catch its next meal…
Like many towns, Tod’s changed. A lot of old pubs have closed in recent years which is a shame, but then the place had plenty of them.
Another one bites the dust…
Some have been replaced by micro-pubs based in former shops, which appear to be doing rather well. I visited two, both of which had different characters. The first was the Alehouse on the Burnley Rd, a short walk from the town centre. It has both indoor and outdoor seating. There’s a good range of real ales (although other inebriants are available) and the staff are both friendly and helpful. It feels very much a local pub that’s a meeting point for the community, although strangers like me are made to feel welcome. What I found interesting was the range of accents. Todmorden’s part of West Yorkshire, but it’s borderline Lancashire (in the past its moved counties) and only a few miles from Burnley, so there was a real mix of Lancashire and Yorkshire accents on offer from the folk frequenting the place. Oh, and dogs. It’s a very dog friendly pub – not that the dogs are always friendly with each other!
Moving on into the centre to look for possible places to eat I stumbled across another micro-pub, ‘The Beer Necessities’ which is set back on a cobbled Water Street. This is another long and narrow converted shop on two levels, with a disabled toilet on the lower of the two. The clientele seemed to cover a greater age spectrum than the Alehouse, but that could just be its proximity to the town centre. The atmosphere was really good and its certainly a place I’d visit again.
To be continued…
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With New Year behind us and the weather remaining cold but turning sunny we felt it was time to work off some of the festive food by heading out to explore a new walk. Looking at our options I plumped for another water walk, this time around the Digley reservoir near Holmbridge in the Holme valley, near the well-known town of Holmfirth (the setting for the long-running TV series ‘last of the summer wine’).
The drive over to Digley takes about 45 minutes cross-country, which isn’t bad, although the closer we got the more ‘interesting’ the country roads became due to a mixture of shallow snow and black ice which was cunningly hidden in the shadows. Digley is actually two reservoirs, with the smaller Bilberry up above it.
Bilberry has an interesting history. It was the original of the two, and in 1852 it burst, spilling 86 million gallons of water down the River Holme, causing 81 deaths and a large amount of property damage. The disaster caused a change in the way dams were built from then on.
In contrast, Digley wasn’t opened until 1954, despite being planned in the 1930s. The waters now cover the site of two mills and a pub, amongst other buildings. Here’s how the area looked in 1915.
There plenty of car parking at either end of the dam. The walk’s very pleasant as it passes through woodland and also dips and climbs as the well-maintained paths don’t follow the reservoir edge too closely so you get a variety of views. Here’s a few pictures from our trip.
Looking down on Digley with the dam in the distance. Looking down on the Digley reservoir from Greaves Head. The edge of the Bilberry dam can be seen at the very right hand edge of the picture. As you can see, there’s some gorgeous views across the Holme valley from here. Looking back the opposite way from the dam itself, with the large and ornate dam drain in the foreground (which isn’t open to the public, for obvious reasons).
There’s nowhere to buy food or drink near the dam, so bring your own. However, the Fleece Inn in nearby Holme does food and a range of real ales and other drinks.
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Apologies for absence over the past week and festive reason but blogging has taken a backseat to Christmas and life here at Bigland towers. We’ve had a very relaxed and stress-free break with just the two of us – a real change from the past few years. In fact, things have been so relaxed I’ve hardly used my camera at all, even when I’ve taken it out with me.
Christmas day was easy as most of the food for our veggie feat was already cooked. I only had one dish to complete, whilst Dawn sorted out desserts. We’d made plenty, which lasted us for a few days in different permutations. No thinking about what the hell we do to use up leftover turkey!
Sadly, we didn’t get snow, or sunshine. Most of the time we’ve laboured under leaden skies but as there’s been no rain and the temperature’s been mild we can count our blessings. We did escape the confines of the valley on Sunday as we drove over to Southport to see my sister and her partner to spend a very convivial afternoon in Churchtown, a village to the North of the centre. The village has moved upmarket since I was a lad, but it’s still a very pleasant place to while away a day.
Neither of us have returned to work this week, instead our time’s been spent pottering around at home, watching the year draw to a close from a distance, which is more than some folks have been able to do. I’ll write up my thoughts on how 2025 has been tomorrow. Much as I don’t want to wish my life away I can’t say I’ll be sorry to see the year go and it morph into 2026.
I doubt there’ll be much carousing in New Years eve. We’ll probably pop up to our local pub for a couple of drinks before returning home before things get too mad. New year isn’t the same here in West Yorkshire as it was when I lived in London, but that’s life.
In the meantime, here’s a few pictures from the festive period.
Christmas day Thali, with all the trimmings! All that glitters isn’t gold, but a Halifax jeweller’s done their best to get into the festive spirit.– as did our local pub who kept drinkers few with free mince pies…– and relax. Feet up in front of the fire abd chance to enjoy duck in plum sauce with pancakes, spring onion and cucumber.
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Yipee! We’ve now passed the shortest day of the year. There’s no noticeable change for a little while but the days will soon be getting longer. Not that you’d notice anything in this neck of the woods we’ve existed in perpetual twilight these past couple of days. I’ve hardly been able to make out the opposite side of the valley due to fog and low cloud. No wonder some people suffer from SAD (seasonally adjusted disorder) when there’s so little sunlight around.
Still, I’ve had enough to occupy me here at Bigland Towers as we gradually wind down (or up, depending on your perspective) to Christmas. Whilst Dawn’s spent all day slaving away in the office, I’ve been busy in the kitchen to keep her supplied with lunch and also cook some of the dishes that will make up our Christmas feast. I’ve managed to get two off the list, none of which I’ve ever cooked before, so that’s been fun. Now the kitchen’s redolent with the smell of mustard seeds, garlic and coconut after preparing dishes from Kerala (S India) and Sri Lanka. First up was the one where the ingredients form today’s picture. Carrot and Beans Thoran.
Tomorrow I move on to dishes from Northern India whilst Dawn joins the party to bake and make desserts…
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I’m back from London. Contrary to the far-right whingers on social media, our capital was a joyous place full of festive cheer – as was I and the friends I’d arranged to meet over the two days. I’ll add a separate blog tomorrow detailing some of yesterday’s adventures.
In contrast, today’s been less about gallivanting and more about consolidating for Christmas. The pair of us have chosen the recipes we want to cook, so went hunting for ingredients at our local Asian supermarket as well as Tescos. Now the kitchen’s full of goodies as well as some amazing smells which have been added to as the cooking muse has descended on Dawn, who’s now perfected home-made focaccia to go with the spicy prawns that have become something of a Saturday night tradition.
Tomorrow I spring in to action to start cooking some of the dishes we’ll be having at Christmas. Nearly all are dishes I’ve never made before, like Sri Lankan beans with coconut and Himachali Khatta (black chickpea curry). I’m looking forward to it.
Of course, there’s still other work to do. I’ve now a massive file of pictures to edit from my London adventure. So today’s blog includes a couple of tasters.
The rail staff carols at St Mary’s, Somers Town featured the London’s Transport Choir and the BT London choir.Meanwhile, on Waterloo station musicians were in festive mood to raise money for the Children’s Society. So much for Christmas being ‘cancelled’…
After the carols and having had a few drinks with other attendees Hassard and myself headed out to meet up with other old friends. By chance we managed to find on of the few Class 455s in service for a fast run to Surbiton.
Introduced from 1982, the Class 455s were the mainstay of suburban services on the Southern and Southwest Railway network. Now they’re almost all gone. Cheers from Surbiton!
Time to relax at home with this stunning home-made Focaccia and spicy prawns…
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Yesterday (Thursday) the sun shone bright here in West Yorkshire, making a change from the dank and dismal weather which seems to be the norm nowadays. It spurred me on to get out and about for a few hours to look at some of the Trans-Pennine Route Upgrade work sites that I hadn’t visited this year, as well as some I’ve been popping into regularly. I was also driven by the fact Ravensthorpe station closes this weekend so that the site can be cleared for the new fast lines flyover. Here’s a selection of pictures from the day.
802204 speeds through Batley as 1K16, the 1103 Hull to Liverpool Lime Street, passing the platform extensions which are being added to both Up and Down line platforms at the North end. Looking down on Batley station from Soothill Lane bridge. It’s hard to believe this was once a junction, with the GNR Chicken Heath branch running off to the left towards Ossett.A 1915 OS map shows the station and goods yard. The dingy Batley station subway is due to be replaced by a footbridge with lifts which is being constructed at the Southern end of the platforms. I’ll span the tracks between the two lamp posts on the right. Meanwhile, at Ravensthorpe, hardcore is being laid between the two side walls of the flyover. This will be the location of the slewed lines to/from Healy Mills.Foundations of the Northern wall of the flyover are almost complete. A last view of Ravensthorpe station which closes this weekend. 150215 approaches with a service from Leeds to Bradford Interchange. That’s progress! Here’s the new bridges over the Calder and Hebble navigation. Since I visited on the 25th November two of the Eastern side girders have been put into place. A closer view of the two new girders. The pillar nearest the camera waits to receive its girder, which is already hooked up to the crane nearby. Passing under the new girders. The last train I’ll ever catch from the old Ravensthorpe station. 15020 calls on the 14.02 from Bradford to Leeds.
On the way back I stopped off at Brighouse to get a couple of pictures and to visit the renowned Blakeleys take-away and restaurant, which is famous for the quality of its fish and chips. It’s next door to another Brighouse institution, the Market Tavern. It seemed rude not to wash my food down with a pint, so I called in for a ‘swifty’. The beer was in great condition and the pub busy, but I couldn’t help noticing that the clientele were almost all pensioners (shit, that includes me now!). Admittedly, most younger people would still be at work, but I wonder what the place would look like at 16:00 in say, 10 years time? Times are changing, and so are demographics…
Back at the station I couldn’t resist getting a picture of this history board. I’ve mentioned the tale of the man who broke the bank of Monte Carlo before, but here’s the full story…
If you want to see more TRU construction pictures, you can find the complete gallery by following this link to my Zenfolio website.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 