Category Archives: Kanchanaburi

Asian adventure day 32. Back in Bangkok…

10 Friday Feb 2023

Posted by in Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Photography, Railways, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

After an interesting and relaxing few days in Kanchanaburi I’m now back in the big city. To be honest, I enjoyed the journey back more than the one there which maybe has something to do with the light and the time of day. I was up at 05:30 in order to enjoy the sunrise and a cup of coffee before catching the 02:20 train. The early mornings where I’ve been staying are well worth getting up for – as you can see…

Looking down on the floating rooms from the communal area of the Tamarind.

I’ll miss the Tamarind hotel. It was a great place to stay, although next time I’d be tempted to upgrade to a room with a/c, but then no-one expected temperatures to hit 37 degrees!

The train back to Bangkok that time of morning is a local service that stops at every blade of grass but that means it’s more relaxed operationally. I bagged a seat in the rear coach next to the helpful young guard who willingly and without prompting lifted my bags up the steep steps onto the train and who was equally happy for me to take pictures from the open back of the train. Some guards get nervy about this as no-one wants a foreigner falling off the back coach, there’s too much paperwork!

Watched by a lone dog, ‘Shovelnose’ 4004 arrived from Nam Tok to head to Bangkok’s Thonburi station as ‘Ordinary train No 60.

On arrival at Thonburi I shared a taxi to Banglumphu with two young French girls who were in Bangkok for the first time. I was staying somewhere different for a change as my usual hotels were full. As my room wasn’t ready I dumped my case at the hotel and went for a wander, only to find the area’s packed. I’d only been away for a week! But in that time, the younger backpackers have returned. I couldn’t plan to do much other than a bit of shopping, work out my next day’s moves and respond to work emails from the UK. As I’m staying somewhere slightly more upmarket I’d been hoping for some decent wifi. That proved to be a disappointment – but I do have a/c! As said wifi’s rather pedestrian and I still need to eat, this is going to be a short blog. You may get more insights later but probably not. I want to have another early start checking out some of the new lines emanating from the new grand station at Bang Sue before I head South on the 15:35…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 31. Kanchanaburi day 8.

09 Thursday Feb 2023

Posted by in Kanchanaburi, Musings, Railways, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

– and final day in Kanchanaburi. After the opressive heat of yesterday I was worried I’d lose another to the heatwave. Thankfully, that wasn’t to be. I was up at dawn this morning to make the most of the coolness of the day – fully expecting to be grounded later as the temperatures rose. At least the Tamarind would be a reasonable place for that to happen. They have an upstairs seating area that’s open but shaded, there’s plenty of power sockets for charging up gizmos – and there’s a free supply of water, tea and coffee.

Being up so early had other advantages other than the cool and free beverages. The river looks stunning in the early morning light and the amount of wildlife you see from the elevated perch compared to my rover view is fascinating. Pairs of Kingfishers used the roof of my ‘floatel’ as a lookout – something I’d never had chance to observe before. Meanwhile, squadrons of Monitor lizards began their early morning patrol.

Mind you, they weren’t the only early birds. When I left the hotel at 08:00 the first of the mains streets bars were open – and with trade. An old British expatriate was already on his first beer and God’s knows what number fag. I saw him several hours later. He was still in the same seat but with a different shirt, so I can only assume he took a shower break! The expat community here is interesting. A lot (but not by all by any means) appear to be British – and very set in their routines. They frequent the same bars and stick in the same groups. Not only are they drinkers, most of them are smokers too – and their BMI tends to reflect this. I passed a few of them at what I assume is one of their favourite food outlets. Chaps were tucking into toast and omlettes, or even a full English – and what looked suspiciously like black pudding – and I’ve no idea where you’d get that from! ‘Thai spicy’ wasn’t on the menu.

I have to admit, I’ve bumped into a UK expat here who’s given me a very interesting insight into expat (or long-term visitors, as some are) and it’s been food for thought. I really don’t get going to the same bar everyday, with the same people – until one of them croaks, which is fairly likely, as these guys are neither spring-chickens or out jogging every morning! It’s not much of a life or old age, more God’s waiting room with cold beer, baked beans and bar girls…

Now, please don’t take this as in anyway a criticism of Thai people. I’ve met some lovely ones here. OK, one or two of the ‘Farangs’ local girlfriends can be as mad as a box of frogs after a session on the Thai whisky, I’m talking about the vast majority of people, all of whom have been so friendly and genuine.

Anyway, my breakfast was full Thai (glass noodles and chicken), after which I wandered home to prepare for the blast-furnace – only to find that – unlike yesterday there was a very pleasant breeze that took the sting out of the temperature. So I thought ‘sod it’ and caught the 10:44 train to Nam Tok, the end of the ‘death railway’. Besides, you’re in a sheltered railway coach with all the windows open and roof-mounted electric fans, there’s worse places to be!

I’ll add a full review of the line at a later date, but it was a great trip. Few tourists go all the way. Most do just do a section of it as part of a minibus/coach package that whisks around a dizzying number of sites. This meant I had pole position at widows as I was on early and knew what to expect as I’d traversed the line in 2009. You’ll get to see all of today’s pictures later. Here’s a few as right now I’m back at my hotel concentrating on packing and another early night as I’m catching the 07:20 back to Bangkok in the morning. The next chapter of my trip is about to begin…

Alsthom built 4130 running around the train at journey’s end at Nam Tok. This loco’s been on this working from Bangkok since I arrived.
In my professional opinion, the best views from the train are on the Southbound run, but don’t get too far back down the trainset…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 30. Kanchanaburi day 7.

08 Wednesday Feb 2023

Posted by in Kanchanaburi, Photography, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

30 days already? Sheesh. I’m half way through my trip…

There’s a short blog from me today. There’s wifi problems at my hotel which may or may not be connected with the temperature, because today the mercury hit 36 degrees – unseasonably warm for Kanchanaburi. Now I don’t mind the heat, but 36 degrees with the humidity that accompanies it in Thailand is pushing it, even for me – and tomorrow is forecast to be even hotter. Add to that the fact I had restless night’s sleep last night so cancelled my plans to go to Nam Tok and it’s been a bit of a washout day. Oh, I’ve still enjoyed being here, and the food is fabulous as always, but I find my appetite’s subdued by the heat so I’m only  eating twice a day. I find you don’t need the calories to keep you warm the way you do in Northern Europe. Mind you, I have been drinking bottled water like it’s going out of fashion because you lose so much moisture through sweating.

The weather’s meant most of my day has been spent holed up at my hotel trying to keep cool and get clothes washed as you go through them at a rate of knots. On the bright side – they dry in  trice! Whilst I was relaxing on the verandah I did manage to get some shots of one of the enormous Monito Lizards that inhabit the rover. These things are well over 1.5 metres long, they’re the smaller cousins of the Komodo dragons, but they’re still impressive.

A Monitor lizard does its best to merge with a tree fragment by remaining perfectly still. It would be easy to miss if I hadn’t been watch its movements for the past half-hour.

I’m having an early night as I’m going to hope for a better night’s sleep, then look at an early start in the morning before the heat of the day really kicks in…

In light of today’s washout I’ve extended my stay for the last and final time as there’s some pictures I’d still like to get here -weather permitting. After that I must get back to Bangkok to see friends and meet up with my niece and her husband in order to get the train down to Butterworth, Malaysia, where the weather’s a much more comfortable 32 degrees. But, I’ll be back…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 29. Kanchanaburi day 6 (part 2)…

07 Tuesday Feb 2023

Posted by in Kanchanaburi, Musings, Photography, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

I did threaten that there may be a second part to today’s blog – and here it is…

My earlier blog was more concerned with memories. This one’s bang up to date. Today I’ve been hanging around Kanchanaburi. Not the tourist bit near the bridge but the other end where most people (including me) are staying. I love street photography and here’s an ideal place. The roads aren’t too busy and the people are really friendly – and aren’t camera shy.

I spent a couple of hours sat on a street corner just watching the world go by my lens, and one thing really struck me. In Thailand, cars have become monsters. They’re massive and heavy, taking up far more of the public domain than they used to – and I hate to think what the fuel consumption is. Some of the SUV variants are bloody tanks! That was my project for today, look at the reality of life on the roads and here’s some of the pictures…

This is more like it. I’m saying nothing about health and safety, but I’m always impressed by how many people can fit on a scooter. The most I’ve seen is five.
A brace of massive gas-guzzlers – and these aren’t even the worst examples. I couldn’t get a shot of them today but several looked like they wouldn’t have been out of place in a dystopian future like the one portrayed in the ‘Mad Max’ films.
– contrast the gas-guzzlers with this. Pooch-friendly transport. Sadly, I wasn’t quick enough to get a shot of the pillion passenger on another scooter who had a Cockerel tucked underneath her arm.
Then there’s this, which took me completely by surprise. It’s an old British MG. I don’t do cars so I haven’t the foggiest about it beyond its marque.
OK, scooters have an environmental impact too – but at least you can do this and interact with people.
Moody skies over the main drag outside my hotel entrance. Fortunately, the rain never arrived…
The brilliant food stall where I had the excellent but fiery ‘Som Tam’ this morning. This time the lovely woman who runs it is preparing me pork fried rice.
– and here’s the results of her labours. And all for 40 baht (£1). It was delicious.

So, here’s a little snapshot of life in Kanchanaburi and insight into why I’ve really grown to like the place. The people are lovely. Expect something a little different tomorrow as I’m going to be up early to take the train to the end of the line at Nam Tok.

Oh, before I go, I said I’d mention washing machines! There’s lots of launderettes here, mostly new but rarely beautiful, but there’s also this weirdly (to Western eyes) thing where you find a single washing machine plumbed in outside a shop. You bring your own soap-powder, load it with your washing, pay your money – then come back when it’s done. You take it away on your scooter to dry it at home. Sod tumble-dryers for chrissake – this is SE Asia!

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 28. Kanchanaburi day 5.

06 Monday Feb 2023

Posted by in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

Today’s blog is one I’ve been hoping to write but the time hasn’t been right until now. If you’re expecting stuff about railways, look away now, because that’s not what this blog’s about. I didn’t actually come here for the railway and the river Kwai bridge either (I did all that years ago). I’ve come here for a much more personal reason and to finally put something behind me that’s been bothering me for a long time.

I first came here in 2009 when my first marriage was falling apart. I didn’t realise that would be the outcome, but both Lynn and I knew things weren’t right between us. What neither of us knew is what secrets the other held. Lynn always used to say “you never know what’s going on between two people – even when you’re one of the two people” – and how right she was. We were here with an old Australian friend called Alison whom we’d met in India in 1998. Poor Alison got caught up in our troubles. I can’t forget any of that. A short while afterwards Alison and I briefly came here with Dawn but the memories are mixed. I’m here now because those memories bother me and I need to create new, more positive ones. And I have. Despite my initial misgivings I’ve really enjoyed being here. Stay away from the tourist tat, the bridge and the girly bars and the people you meet are fantastic. Despite the fact as I write this the rain is hammering down and we’re having the most fantastic thunderstorm I actually feel very positive about being here. I’ve met some lovely local people, eaten some stunning food and found a great place to stay. Oh, and most importantly, I’ve made peace with something that’s been bothering me for a very long time…

Streetlife. Tomorrow I’ll tell you about the random washing machines…

Whilst I was hanging around this street corner to take pictures I got chatting to a local guy who was parked up in his scooter taxi, He didn’t want to sell me anything or try and take me anywhere, he was just interested in what I was doing and gave me tips on what traffic to expect coming down the road. I love that. Here in Asia you can smile at a total stranger and get a beaming smile and head nod in return. In most places in the UK they’d think you’re a nutter and eye you with suspicion.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 27. Kanchanaburi day 4.

05 Sunday Feb 2023

Posted by in Food and drink, Kanchanaburi, Musings, Thailand, Travel

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , ,

It’s Sunday here in Kanchanaburi. In fact it’s Sunday almost everywhere depending on your time zone, which is always food for thought – unless you’re a member of the flat-earth society!

Today here in Thailand I’ve been trying to relearn an old skill. That of just being. In the 21st century we all lead such hectic lives. My Asia trip has been focused on doing rather than being. I’ve been preoccupied with the things I want to see and those that I want to write about in the future – plus composing a daily blog, editing pitures and responding to events back in the UK.

Today, I decided to simply sit on the verandah outside my room and watch the world go by, without any lists, tick-sheets or any of the other ‘to do’ things we tie ourselves up with. Plus, it’s Sunday apparently, the biblical day of rest. Not that days of the week mean that much to me when I’m travelling, which is why I sometimes get caught out by events. But today I made the effort.

Whilst relearning to be I realized something. I haven’t got a single guide-book with me on this trip. I’ve a Kindle, but I haven’t fired it up once. This part of the world’s so familiar to me I don’t really need guide-books. Besides, I did most of the tourist stuff 20-30 years ago. I’m here for a different reason now, and part of that involves just being.

Oh, and eating.

I love Thai food. Dawn and I often make it at home but having it made for you in Thailand is hard to beat. Especially some of the regional delicacies like Khao Soi – or what I had for my evening meal today – papaya salad (Som Tum). It’s almost impossible to get a proper one in the UK because the real version uses a very young papaya as its main ingredient. In the UK you can substitute papaya with cabbage but it’s not the same.

It’s now late, I had a Whatsapp video call with Dawn earlier which was lovely following on as it did from yesterday’s mixed call with her parents. This time it was just the two of us. So, as it’s late I’m going to end this blog as I’ve plans for tomorrow. The rain I was hoping for hasn’t arrived here but the river’s at least a couple of feet higher. I know this by the fact the gangplank to my ‘floatel’ is now level to the land. Hopefully this will keep the air less hazy so I can have a day out with the camera. We’ll see…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 26. Kanchanaburi day 3.

04 Saturday Feb 2023

Posted by in Food and drink, Kanchanaburi, Photography, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , ,

It’s a late blog from me, mainly due to the fact I’ve had a sociable evening with Steve Beames and his lovely wife Carol. I’d never met them before but we have dozens of mutual railway friends on Facebook and one of them tipped us off that we were in the same country together. All of us are on more than normal holidays and share a love of travel, food, railways and certain beverages so it would have been rude not to have met up and said hello. We ended up chatting for several hours.

The earlier part of my day was equally relaxed. I’d been up early so that I could sort out more work and edit pictures, as well as pondering and deciding to stay a few more days here in Kanchanaburi. Unlike Bangkok, the pollution that’s been hanging in the air for the past few days has finally begun to clear. Now I can actually see the surrounding hills which have been reduced to a ghostly image until now. There’s a threat of rain tomorrow, which will really clear the air.

The weekend’s brought an influx of people to where I’m staying but it’s still not busy. This evening was actually quite relaxed and fun. One chap was fishing off the end of the houses – watched by the young daughter of the French family who’ve moved in next door, especially when he caught fish after fish. His colleague was out in a little boat cutting back the water Hyacinth to free up space around the ‘floatel’ for swimmers and boats.

All in all an enjoyable day. I even got to make my weekly video call to Dawn – only this time it included her parents. Oh, and I found a restaurant that sold the classic North Thai dish Khao Soi – so I was well happy. Admittedly, this was the chicken version rather than the pure veg one but even so – it was gorgeous!

Such is the simple life here in Kanchanaburi. Tomorrow (depending on the weather) I’ll be exploring more…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!

Asian adventure day 25. Kanchanaburi day 2.

03 Friday Feb 2023

Posted by in History, Kanchanaburi, Photography, Railways, Thailand, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

Amazing the difference a good nights sleep makes. I woke up in a much more positive frame of mind this morning. Mind you, stepping straight out of your door to a wonderful river view does rather help. Here’s where I’m staying.

There’s such wildlife to enjoy here (and I’m not talking about the ‘girly’ bars). The river’s teeming with fish and the birdlife (of the feathered variety) is amazing. I’m quite content to pass the time sat outside my room on the verandah and watch the world go by. I’d only booked a couple of nights but I’ve decided to extend that by a few days as today’s been spent exploring the town and catching up on picture editing. It’s a sleepy place in the mornings. The town doesn’t really wake up until the heat of the day’s passed – apart from around the bridge where the tourist tat stalls are. A couple of bars open for the hardened drinkers, all old Western men who’ve either retired here or take long holidays to Thailand. I passed one such large group of Englishmen tucking into their beers at 10 am!

One place I did visit today is the war cemetery run by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. A group of Thai workers were busy keeping it looking immaculate. A party of Thai schoolchildren on a trip were there at the same time. Each child picked a grave at random and wrote down the details of the soldier contained on the plaque. It’s a sobering place. Each one of these allied soldiers died building the railway, along with an estimated 100,000 Asian forced labourers.

The youngest soldiers (and a sailor) I found were 20. The oldest was 51. The average age would have been mid 20s. Such a waste of life – and sadly it’s still going on today thanks to the meglomania of old men like Putin. We never learn.

Now I’m back at my room, relaxing as the sun sets before heading off to eat. Tonight I’ll be busy finishing off some work so expect more pictures and commentary later. It’s Friday, so the place is beginning to fill up with folks from Bangkok who come here for weekend breaks. This could get interesting…

21:20 (Thai time).

Having had a wander for a bite to eat and enjoyed some fiery noodle soup (my fault, I loaded it with dried chilies) I’m now relaxing at home whilst the town gears up for the weekend. Here’s a couple of pictures taken on the main drag.

Not quite streetfood as it’s cooked in a cafe, but you eat it on the street!
One of the main ‘girly bars’. Trade’s slow…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Thank you!