I’ve had a busy but easy day here in KL, if you count the fact I’ve only moved from my hotel to get food (delicious Roti Canai and a coffee for breakfast) and ensure I still get my daily quota of 12,500 plus steps uner my belt. That nearly proved to be a challenge as we’ve had another wet day in the city. Nowhere near as bad as yesterday but the morning was filled with showers. The afternoon brightened up with periods of intense sunshine which was rather handy as it allowed me to get my washing dried! The rest of the day was spent editing and captioning pictures to start to clear the hundreds I have in the queue. Now after a determined day both collections from Thailand are up to date. You can find the travel pictures here and the railway ones here. I’ve also finished editing all the Malaysian shots I’ve taken, all they need now are captions.
There’s been other work too. Dealing with picture requests from the UK, chasing up a few work enquiries and also trying the clean up my email inbox which has become ridiculously cluttered now I’ve not been able to log on as much through my phone and the fact the site’s had a redesign which has taken some getting used to. Today I spent several hours browsing and/or deleting a four-figure sum – and there’s still many more to do.
This evening the rain returned. Thankfully, it waited until after I’d nipped out to for a substantial evening meal of rice, curried Jackfruit and Tempe at a local Malaysian street-food establishment I’ve been frequenting for some time. This feed’s cost me 5 ringgit (less than £1). I’d just made it home before we were treated to several hours of thunderstorms and heavy rain with some impressive lightning too. Tomorrow’s forecast isn’t looking great either but we’ll see how much I get done earlier in the day as I might still venture out later.
In the meantime, here’s a taster of the pictures I’ve added today, plus a cute KL cat picture!
At one time, Bangkok MRT’s ‘blue line’ train ran almost its entire length underground. Now extensions at either end which have carried it across the Chao Praya river mean there’s substantial elevated sections, like this one looking West from Tao Poon station. A dozing KL street cat asleep on a pavement without a care in the world…
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Much as I’d liked to have lingered longer in Georgetown it’s time to hit the road and begin my journey south towards Singapore. I’ll miss this place, but I know I’ll be back again sometime. This is such a fascinating multicultural place with rich history I could never tire of it. Add in the fantastic food and the fact it’s a crossroads for so many travellers, what’s not to like?
The weather’s overcast making it a good day to travel. I didn’t want to risk my back (or the wheels on my case) so I got a taxi from Star Lodge to the ferry. terminal – well worth the 12 ringgit (just over £2) it cost me). With the limited capacity ferries only running hourly now I’ve arrived in plenty of time to get to the front of the queue for the 11:30 ferry before catching the 12:45 train from Butterworth.
For once, I’m going to write a rolling blog throughout the trip. I’m travelling ‘Platinum’ class this time, which is the Malaysian version of 1st which should make for a relaxing trip. It takes just over four hours to reach KL Sentral nowadays, a great improvement on the past. The only shame is that services aren’t more frequent with just five ETS trains a day linking the two cities.
There’s more than a dozen other Europeans in the queue for the ferry. I suspect most of them will be doing the same as me as the trains the best way to travel. Plus, Standard class only costs £16!
11:22. The ferry has disgorged the inbound passengers, now it’s our time to board. These ex-Langkawi boats are nowhere near as much fun as the old ferries but at least they get you there (most of the time).
12:45. (Malay time).
We’re off! Platinum class in these new ETS sets is rather good..
Almost as soon as we’d left we were served lunch. It may have been prepared and served in a plastic tray, beut the quality of the chicken, bamboo shoots and green rice was rather good.
These particular ETS sets are from the second batch supplied by CRRC Zhuzhon Locomotive Ltd but assembled in Malaysia in 2018. Like most Chinese rolling stock quality (or rather the lack of it) and attention to detail are the issues. Despite only being only five years old the sets are fraying at the edges. Some of the windows have blown so are full of condensation, paintwork’s flaking and nothing really seems to have been made to last. That said, what did KTM specify in the contracts – and was there a warranty? At least they’re doing a bit better than the SCS Komuter sets.
Build quality aside, they ride well. We’re currently bowling along at 139kph so the PIS screen above the doors tells me. Oh, and they don’t leak – which is just as well as it’s chucking it down outside as we approach Taipeng.
13:55 (Malay time)
We’ve just passed through one of the new tunnels between Taipeng and Padang Rengas that were bored as part of the line’s modernisation back in the 2000s. The old British built single track line used to stagger through these jungle-clad hills – which was great fun if you were a railway enthusiast, but not if you were an ordinary passenger keen to get to their destination.
This part of Malaysia is very attractive because its so hilly. Whilst the lowlands around the railway are cultivated by palm oil and rubber plantations and the occasional fish farm, the high hills with their lush jungle are mostly left untouched.
14:40 (Malay time).
We’ve just left the town of Ipoh. Its an interesting place I’ve visited a couple of times. I was another colonial centre famous for mining so not only does it have an impressive Edwardian station building it also boasts an attractive old town centre. I’ll post a couple of links to pictures later. This area provides the railway with a lot of freight traffic due to the massive rail-served cement plant at Tasek. The size of the rail yards around the town reflect this.
Next stop after Ipoh was Batu Gajah which has become a railway centre nowadays. The new depot and associated sites which include a CRRC plant replaced the old British-built Sentul works which was Malaysia’s Crewe, employing thousands of people. Batu Gajah’s far more up to date, built to maintain diesel and electric fleets – not steam!
As soon as we departed the staff fed us again, this time with a snack box containing peanuts, a kitkat and a carton of apple juice to accompany a hot drink (I plumped for coffee) as well as a Danish pastry and cupcake.
15:40 (Malay time)
We’ve arrived at Tanjung Malim which is the Northernmost extremity of KL’s ‘Komuter’ network. There’s a few stabling roads here, one of which contains two badly damaged cars from set SCS06. They’ve clearly been in a collision, but what with I wonder? No-one appears to be in a hurry to do anything with them as I passed them on my way North over a month ago. I’ve just Googled these class 92s and found out this set was badly damaged at this location way back in October 2018! 6 clearly isn’t a lucky number as this was the 2nd accident the set was involved in, and it was hit by a Class 26…
16:30 (Malay time)
We’ve crawled into Sungai Buloh which is the start of single line working through to KL Sentral whilst the second line’s being re-laid and rebuilt. It plays hell with capacity in the Klang valley and I’m hoping to have a closer look at work whilst I’m here.
21:30.
Time to round up the day from ‘Bigland Towers’ KL branch! My train arrived into KL Sentral spot on time. A one stop hop on the MRT system to Pasir Seni got me back to the City Lodge Hotel on the edge of Chinatown where I stayed earlier. I now have a room next door to my old one!
The rain that’s followed me all the way from Penang had remained over KL all day so I’ve not been tempted to venture out. Instead it been a case of getting my new ‘office’ set up. I like the rooms here as they have good desk space by a window with plenty of power sockets. Looking at the forecast the weather’s going to be the same tomorrow but I’m happy to have a day working, catch up on picture editing and UK stuff whilst having the odd wander for food. Here’s not as sociable a place as Georgetown so there’s no distractions in that way.
My new office…
Thankfully my back problems didn’t cause any problem with travelling. Maybe it’s finally on the mend which will be a relief – especially with the fact in 10 days I’m going to be spending an awful lot of time glued to aircraft seats!
Right, now it’s time to get on with a few others bits. I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s rolling blog. One thing I haven’t explored on this trip is KL’s monorail. I intend to put that right before I leave…
To end the day, here’s a couple of pictures from Butterworth. The ‘new’ ferries may be lousy for taking pictures from compared to their counterparts, but the new shopping complex adjacent to the ferry terminal has a multi-story car park above it. Here’s the view from the 8th floor.
Class 25 number 25109 removes empty container flats from the North terminal. Vosco Unity is a Vietnamese bulk carrier. Built in 2004 by Imbari shipbuilding the ships gross tonnage is 29,963. After unloading she sailed to Prai (Malaysia) earlier today.
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Today’s my last full day in Georgetown – at least on this trip, although I did nip over to the mainland for several hours to amass some more railway pictures. As is often the case my timing wasn’t brilliant and the fates conspired against me. I was up early but wanted to get a local breakfast so I wandered up to the Komtar bus station to buy some Nasi Lemak. I struggled to find it where I was staying in KL but then the opposite’s true here. I love Roti Canai to start the day with but the place I used to get it for breakfast here’s closed down. Funny old world…
Suitably fed and watered I scanned the skies and thought a trip over to Bukit Tengah, the first station out of Butterworth would be worth doing as I could spend a couple of hours taking pictures before coming home. As the ferries are only hourly now I even had time for a wander and buy some ‘clackers’ for a friend. Remember ‘clackers’? They were a 1970’s child’s toy phenomenon. Two plastic balls on the end of some twine that you bounced up and down until they ricocheted off each other in an endless cycle like a devilish Newton’s cradle (with half the balls). Well that was the idea, most people lost control after a minute or so and got a hefty clout on the wrist. It was a passing fad, but here in Penang they’re back.
My diversions meant the first ferry I could catch was the 11.30 which was fine, I arrived early, found a hard plastic seat next to a fan, logged on the the free wifi and waited. The seat was a bad idea, because as soon as I tried to stand up my back/bum muscle problems returned. I’d been doing so well up to that point too – bugger!
Despite the setback I continued with my trip, catching the ferry to Butterworth before walking up to the station to buy a 2 ringgit return to Bukit Tengah, the first station up the line but which is the location of the new depot which services locomotives, multiple units and wagons. Photographically, it’s far better than Butterworth, but there’s not a lot going on outside the station, so if you were tempted to visit, bring your own snacks. There’s a big petrol station outside if you’re desperate, but the choice of food’s limited, expensive and not very healthy. Anyways here’s a sample of the pictures I took.
‘Dalian’ 29106 powers around the curves at Bukit Tengah en-route to Butterworth.
Right now I’m enjoying my last night in a town I love. I’d planned to have a drink in one of the old bars I photographed in the past but found somewhere far mor interesting. After the rain had come and gone I went for a walk and passed what the Aussies would call a ‘bottle shop’. Only this bottle shop provided seating and gradually took over the road outside. A shout from a chap I’d bumped into earlier led me to sitting with a mixed group. He was from New Zealand, but the woman next to him was from South Korea. Also present was a local Indian guy as well as a bloke from Catalonia, who was keen to emphasise he wasn’t Spanish! It turned out to be a lovely group. We asked a lot of questions of each other and covered a lot of political and social ground.
The ‘secret’ International bar. It springs up some nights apparently and its clients are far more interesting and communicative than the ‘posh’ bars nearby. Here people talk, they don’t sit and stare at their smartphones
Now I’m back at home, packing and preparing to move on tomorrow. I can’t think of a better ending to my time here and I’ll certainly return, one day. Happy places are so rare…
On my way home I passed the Hong Kong bar (est 1920) on Lebuh Chulia which used to be packed. But fashions have really changed and the fleet’s no longer in. Instead there’s one lonely lady left staring at her TV, surrounded by old mementoes of better, busier times.
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It’s not even 19:00 here in Thailand but we’ve already had the beds made up by the staff in my sleeper coach, not that I mind, I’m tired and happy to lie down and compose today’s blog. Charlotte and Adi are in the next coach, which has received the same treatment.
I must admit, I did enjoy a lie-in until 08:00 today. Having the luxury of a fresh, soft bed and an air-conditioned room made it hard to resist! Even so, I was checked out well in advance of time so that I could move up to Bang Sue Grand Central by taxi. You never know how long it’s ging to take by road so I always leave plenty of time as the plan was to have a ‘play’ on the new sections of the blue line MRT railway which I’d photographed being built but had never ridden on. And, as I’d have a wheelie suitcase in tow, I could test out their accessibility.
I was rather disappointed. The stations are all good when it comes to access, with lifts and escalators (and helpful staff) but the platform/train interface (PTI) isn’t. There’s a noticeable gap and difference in levels that mean you have to lift your suitcase on and off or risk it getting stuck – and maybe rip a wheel off. I can’t understand how this happens on a new railway with a new fleet of trains to compliment the existing ones.
Another thing I noticed on the section from Bang Sue Westwards to the end of the line is how difficult photography is due to the placing of platform barriers, lineside equipment and roadside cables. All conspire to make clean shots as difficult as possible. Admittedly, I didn’t try every station as I had a suitcase with me, but I did visit several. I’ll add a couple of shots tomorrow when I’ve access to wifi. But what the lines elevated position is good for is offering some great panoramic views of central Bangkok. I’d liked to have explored further but that’s going to have to wait until later in the trip.
Back at Bang Sue I met up with Charlotte and Adi (my neice and her husband) who’d come down on the sleeper train from Chiang Mai earlier this morning. It was great to see them and hear some of their travel tales. We swapped a few more on the train before our enforced ‘bedtime’ when I had to go back to my own coach. No doubt we’ll add some new stories from George Town when we get there…
One of SRTs new Chinese built locos at the head of our train to Hat Yai and Padang Besar.
Oh, talking of level access, I nipped out to visit the old Bang Sue station which is right next door to the new. When I looked for a way acoss I noticed this. How many faults can you spot?
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After an interesting and relaxing few days in Kanchanaburi I’m now back in the big city. To be honest, I enjoyed the journey back more than the one there which maybe has something to do with the light and the time of day. I was up at 05:30 in order to enjoy the sunrise and a cup of coffee before catching the 02:20 train. The early mornings where I’ve been staying are well worth getting up for – as you can see…
Looking down on the floating rooms from the communal area of the Tamarind.
I’ll miss the Tamarind hotel. It was a great place to stay, although next time I’d be tempted to upgrade to a room with a/c, but then no-one expected temperatures to hit 37 degrees!
The train back to Bangkok that time of morning is a local service that stops at every blade of grass but that means it’s more relaxed operationally. I bagged a seat in the rear coach next to the helpful young guard who willingly and without prompting lifted my bags up the steep steps onto the train and who was equally happy for me to take pictures from the open back of the train. Some guards get nervy about this as no-one wants a foreigner falling off the back coach, there’s too much paperwork!
Watched by a lone dog, ‘Shovelnose’ 4004 arrived from Nam Tok to head to Bangkok’s Thonburi station as ‘Ordinary train No 60.
On arrival at Thonburi I shared a taxi to Banglumphu with two young French girls who were in Bangkok for the first time. I was staying somewhere different for a change as my usual hotels were full. As my room wasn’t ready I dumped my case at the hotel and went for a wander, only to find the area’s packed. I’d only been away for a week! But in that time, the younger backpackers have returned. I couldn’t plan to do much other than a bit of shopping, work out my next day’s moves and respond to work emails from the UK. As I’m staying somewhere slightly more upmarket I’d been hoping for some decent wifi. That proved to be a disappointment – but I do have a/c! As said wifi’s rather pedestrian and I still need to eat, this is going to be a short blog. You may get more insights later but probably not. I want to have another early start checking out some of the new lines emanating from the new grand station at Bang Sue before I head South on the 15:35…
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– and final day in Kanchanaburi. After the opressive heat of yesterday I was worried I’d lose another to the heatwave. Thankfully, that wasn’t to be. I was up at dawn this morning to make the most of the coolness of the day – fully expecting to be grounded later as the temperatures rose. At least the Tamarind would be a reasonable place for that to happen. They have an upstairs seating area that’s open but shaded, there’s plenty of power sockets for charging up gizmos – and there’s a free supply of water, tea and coffee.
Being up so early had other advantages other than the cool and free beverages. The river looks stunning in the early morning light and the amount of wildlife you see from the elevated perch compared to my rover view is fascinating. Pairs of Kingfishers used the roof of my ‘floatel’ as a lookout – something I’d never had chance to observe before. Meanwhile, squadrons of Monitor lizards began their early morning patrol.
Mind you, they weren’t the only early birds. When I left the hotel at 08:00 the first of the mains streets bars were open – and with trade. An old British expatriate was already on his first beer and God’s knows what number fag. I saw him several hours later. He was still in the same seat but with a different shirt, so I can only assume he took a shower break! The expat community here is interesting. A lot (but not by all by any means) appear to be British – and very set in their routines. They frequent the same bars and stick in the same groups. Not only are they drinkers, most of them are smokers too – and their BMI tends to reflect this. I passed a few of them at what I assume is one of their favourite food outlets. Chaps were tucking into toast and omlettes, or even a full English – and what looked suspiciously like black pudding – and I’ve no idea where you’d get that from! ‘Thai spicy’ wasn’t on the menu.
I have to admit, I’ve bumped into a UK expat here who’s given me a very interesting insight into expat (or long-term visitors, as some are) and it’s been food for thought. I really don’t get going to the same bar everyday, with the same people – until one of them croaks, which is fairly likely, as these guys are neither spring-chickens or out jogging every morning! It’s not much of a life or old age, more God’s waiting room with cold beer, baked beans and bar girls…
Now, please don’t take this as in anyway a criticism of Thai people. I’ve met some lovely ones here. OK, one or two of the ‘Farangs’ local girlfriends can be as mad as a box of frogs after a session on the Thai whisky, I’m talking about the vast majority of people, all of whom have been so friendly and genuine.
Anyway, my breakfast was full Thai (glass noodles and chicken), after which I wandered home to prepare for the blast-furnace – only to find that – unlike yesterday there was a very pleasant breeze that took the sting out of the temperature. So I thought ‘sod it’ and caught the 10:44 train to Nam Tok, the end of the ‘death railway’. Besides, you’re in a sheltered railway coach with all the windows open and roof-mounted electric fans, there’s worse places to be!
I’ll add a full review of the line at a later date, but it was a great trip. Few tourists go all the way. Most do just do a section of it as part of a minibus/coach package that whisks around a dizzying number of sites. This meant I had pole position at widows as I was on early and knew what to expect as I’d traversed the line in 2009. You’ll get to see all of today’s pictures later. Here’s a few as right now I’m back at my hotel concentrating on packing and another early night as I’m catching the 07:20 back to Bangkok in the morning. The next chapter of my trip is about to begin…
Alsthom built 4130 running around the train at journey’s end at Nam Tok. This loco’s been on this working from Bangkok since I arrived. In my professional opinion, the best views from the train are on the Southbound run, but don’t get too far back down the trainset…
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Amazing the difference a good nights sleep makes. I woke up in a much more positive frame of mind this morning. Mind you, stepping straight out of your door to a wonderful river view does rather help. Here’s where I’m staying.
There’s such wildlife to enjoy here (and I’m not talking about the ‘girly’ bars). The river’s teeming with fish and the birdlife (of the feathered variety) is amazing. I’m quite content to pass the time sat outside my room on the verandah and watch the world go by. I’d only booked a couple of nights but I’ve decided to extend that by a few days as today’s been spent exploring the town and catching up on picture editing. It’s a sleepy place in the mornings. The town doesn’t really wake up until the heat of the day’s passed – apart from around the bridge where the tourist tat stalls are. A couple of bars open for the hardened drinkers, all old Western men who’ve either retired here or take long holidays to Thailand. I passed one such large group of Englishmen tucking into their beers at 10 am!
One place I did visit today is the war cemetery run by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. A group of Thai workers were busy keeping it looking immaculate. A party of Thai schoolchildren on a trip were there at the same time. Each child picked a grave at random and wrote down the details of the soldier contained on the plaque. It’s a sobering place. Each one of these allied soldiers died building the railway, along with an estimated 100,000 Asian forced labourers.
The youngest soldiers (and a sailor) I found were 20. The oldest was 51. The average age would have been mid 20s. Such a waste of life – and sadly it’s still going on today thanks to the meglomania of old men like Putin. We never learn.
Now I’m back at my room, relaxing as the sun sets before heading off to eat. Tonight I’ll be busy finishing off some work so expect more pictures and commentary later. It’s Friday, so the place is beginning to fill up with folks from Bangkok who come here for weekend breaks. This could get interesting…
21:20 (Thai time).
Having had a wander for a bite to eat and enjoyed some fiery noodle soup (my fault, I loaded it with dried chilies) I’m now relaxing at home whilst the town gears up for the weekend. Here’s a couple of pictures taken on the main drag.
Not quite streetfood as it’s cooked in a cafe, but you eat it on the street! One of the main ‘girly bars’. Trade’s slow…
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I’m afraid it’s a short blog from me today as it’s been a busy one and it’s already nearly 23:00. I was up at silly o’ clock (05:30) in order to pack, leave my hotel and find an honest Bangkok taxi driver willing to use their meter. Funnily enough, this issue was highlighted in today’s issue of the Bangkok Post! There’s always taxi drivers hanging around that time of the morning, but they want 200 baht for what’s a 70 baht journey. The irony? I won’t touch ’em with a bargepole, but I will tip the honest ones who use the meter. So you have to factor in extra time for an honest taxi driver to pass by.
I was lucky and ended up at Thonburi station with an hour to spare. I’d been there before but had completely forgotten about the massive market next door – which is where I bought breakfast prior to joining the train. To be honest, unless you’re a rail enthusiast or wanting to get pictures of the redeveloped railway, it’s not the most interesting of trips. It’s not particularly scenic – as far as Kanchanaburi at least, and you pay ‘tourist price’ (100 baht) for your ticket. But, I enjoyed it! I’ve not been back to Kanchanaburi for several years and I have unfinished business here due to my past.
I’m still not sure how I feel about the place. It feels more run-down and also more seedy than I remember it (lots of ‘girly bars’) and I really don’t think most of the tourists here understand the significance of the bridge and the mass of people of many nationalities who died building the ‘death railway’ It’s just another thing to tick off the list and pose for selfies. But, I’m staying in a floating room on the river Kwai, so I can kick back and insulate myself from all the madness.
Anyway, here’s a couple of pictures from today. Expect many more tomorrow.
Tourists jostle for position to get a shot of a train on the famous bridge.Bloody typical! I spent a couple of hours sweltering in the sun outside am amazingly decorated Chinese temple to get this shot – then the clouds arrived!
Now It’s time for sleep – and I’m surrounded by the frog chorus. It’s like being back in Bali – or a certain Paul McCartney video…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
I’ve certainly got my exercise in today! I was up very early as I had some UK work to do that I wanted to complete before I headed out. Having finished this by 07:30 I was wandering before the day warmed up and when many locals were still at home or on their way to wok. The streets around Banglumphu were quiet but my travels took me through the old town and Chinatown, which was anything but. It was a bit ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’ as I was walking to Hualamphong station which is nearly 3 miles and an hours walk away from my hotel. Most sensible folk would get a taxi or tuk-tuk but the beauty of walking is that you get to see so much stuff you’d normally miss. OK, ignore the fact the air pollution there and back’s probably the equivalent to smoking a pack of fags. I can understand why Thais still wear masks all the time – and it’s nothing to do with Covid!
My route took me through several districts which were especially interesting. Bangkok is similar to India in that trade guilds tended to congregate. The first place I passed was where you’d go to buy all your royal accoutrements. Need a large framed picture of the current king (or his late father) or any of the royal wives and princesses? Flags even? No problem. Here’s where you’d go -and there’s lots of shops to choose from.
The next area I passed through was the woodworkers district, full of businesses selling handmade doors, architrave and beading and all manner of decorations. As most shops don’t have fronts you get too look in (and take crafty pictures).
I’m sure he has a system and knows where everything is…
Another part of the street was full of engineering workshops, crammed with lathes, milling machines, drills and cutters. It’s a world we just don’t see in the UK anymore and it really took me back in time to my father’s workshop in the outbuildings at the bottom of my parents garden. He was an engineer, as was his brother, who had a little foundry in the backstreets of Southport. I’ll add more about that later…
This street was lined with small engineering firms like this. No job is too small. These are the skills the UKs lost as few young people want to make things, they want to be a millionaire and ‘social influencer’. SE Asia doesn’t buy into these fantasies and gets on with making things – and making money. There’s a reason China has become the workshop of the world.
Oh, there was another little artisan group I passed near journey’s end. The coffin suppliers. I suspect they’ve had a good couple of years..
Dead wood…
Eventually – after lots of detours to take pictures – I ended up at Hualamphong station where I booked my ticket back to Malaysia and then spent a couple of hours taking pictures. The loss of most long-distance trains has meant the station’s far quieter than it was, but there’s still a lot of activity out on the platforms and in the adjacent loco depot. Thai trains have always been serviced at Hualamphong, which can mean anything from a wash and clean to changing brake-blocks, fans and other minor repairs. It really is very much ‘old railway’ .
Still plenty of life at the loco depot at the station, including the derivative of a train that will be very familiar to UK viewers. The engines known as ‘shovelnoses’ were built by General Electric whilst the twin windowed engine is from Hitachi. 3rd Class coaches getting a wash and brush-up. The Chevrons on the steps are new. These are fold down steps to allow level (ish) boarding at the modernised stations where platform heights have been increased.
Being a glutton for punishment and wanting to get more pictures I decided to walk back the way I’d come – and discovered this delightful craft beer establishment (and hotel) en-route. Bed and brews. It was like an oasis after the hustle and bustle of Chinatwon, so I couldn’t resist popping in to have a small beer Lao IPA and rest my weary bones and swill the pollution out of my throat before walking the rest of the way home. As much as I enjoy Bangkok, the air quality is shit. Wandering the streets as I did I soon noticed it.
Now, 31,000 steps and a shower later I’m writing this blog before packing as tomorrow I leave the smog of Bangkok behind for a few days to catch the train to Kanchanaburi and take a break by the River Kwai. Yes, that river and that bridge – made famous by the David Lean film starring Alec Guinness. It really does exist.
Expect some more relaxed blogs (and lots of pictures) soon…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
I’ve had another fairly relaxed day here in Bangkok, insofar as I’ve not really moved out of the local area where I’m staying. I’m still exploring and trying to reorientate myself in an area I knew well but that’s undergone a lot of changes due to the pandemic. Tourism was such a vital part of the Thai economy it’s hardly surprising that the world shutting down for so long would have a major impact. The good news is that now tourists are starting to return it’s having a positive impact on economic activity. Even so, it’s sad to see what’s been lost. I spent several hours just wandering the streets earlier and found that an upmarket hotel on the river which I stayed in several times is now derelict. The Navalai was a great place to stay because it had a rooftop swimming pool and was right next door to one of the water taxi piers. Hopefully, it will reopen under a new guise. Today I wandered down the Khao Sarn Road for the first time. This was the original backpackers street which I first stayed on in 1992. It’s changed a bit since then. I wouldn’t dream of staying there now as it’s got far too hedonistic and crowded – and that was 10 years ago. It’s a lot quieter now. Even so, I prefer the Soi’s to the West where I’ve been staying these past few years as they’re much more relaxed.
In between wanderings I’ve been holed up in my hotel, busily editing pictures. I’ve now got all my Malaysian pictures online. You can find the travel ones here and the railway ones here. I’ve still got to edit all my Thai pictures, but you’ll find railways here and travel shots here. One little project I have planned whilst I’m out here is to rationalise the galleries on my Zenfolio website. I’ve far too many from previous travels which are a mix of rail and travel shots, which makes finding stuff messy. Maybe when I find a beach somewhere next month…
It won’t be soon because some work came in on Friday and it looks like I’m going to have to change plans slightly in order to deal with some UK stuff. I’ll know more at the beginning of next week. Tomorrow’s going to be another busy day sorting out bits and rejigging my trip, but in the evening I’m meeting up with an old Thai friend. I’ve not seen Chrissorn since 2017. I’d been planning to come out this way again but then Covid put the mockers on that idea. Where does the time go?
In the meantime, here’s a couple of pictures from todays explorations. Expect more tomorrow…
Here’s something I’ve neglected to mention. Cannabis is now legal in Thailand. Well – ‘ish’. The law’s actually rather confused as it was meant to be about medicinal use rather than recreational use. But that hasn’t stopped an awful lot of places springing up to bring dope to the masses! There’s also some excellent and imaginative pop-up street bars if alcohol’s still your poison.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 