I’m on the move between countries again, but part of me wishes I wasn’t. I’ve really enjoyed Riga. It’s the best new city I’ve seen on this set of travels as it has so much of interest. Today I did more of the tourist thing. First thing was to take the lift to within 2 floors of the Latvian Academy of Sciences Observation deck. The last couple of flights you have to walk. The views from the top are well worth the 8 Euro admission fee. Plus, it’s one hell of a building.
Having filled my camera with views across the city I moved on to a nearby site that’s far less entertaining. The Riga ghetto and holocaust museum which is a very informative and sobering account of the fate of so many Jews (and others) in world war 2. We’ve learned so little in the past century. Then it was people demonising Jews. Now it’s people (some of whom should know better) demonising Muslims. Is it any wonder that some of us are cynical about religions?
Needing my spirits lifting to celebrate the best (not the worst) humanity can achieve I walked back into the old town to photograph more of the amazing buildings. You’ll have to wait for pictures I’m afraid.
Now I’m on the train from Riga to Vilnius en-route to the third of the Baltic states and yet another new country for me. I’m on another modern Class 730 that carried me from Varga, only this one is nowhere near as busy. I’ll describe the journey (with pictures) tomorrow.
For now, here’s a couple of shots from the top of Institute.
The old Zepplin hangers which now form part of a huge and fantastic market.Looking across to the old town.
My train to Vilnius left Riga at 16:55, which was great for giving me extra time in Riga but it meant that I didn’t get to Vilnius until 21:22, leaving me no time to explore the city. Fortunately, my hotel was less than 10 minutes walk away from the station, so I decided the best thing to do that night was take an evening off and hope to make the most of the next day.
The trip itself was fine. The train was one of the same class 730ML’s that carried me through Latvia from Estonia. it wasn’t too busy and the only minor interruption in the journey was when we crossed the border and immigration officers walked through the train checking passports. From what i could see, Lithuania is a lot less rugged than Latvia, but then nearly half the journey was in darkness. I’m looking forward to having time to explore tomorrow.
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Right now I’m on my way from Tallinn to Riga by train with one change at a place called Valga.
I was up early this morning to make the most of my last few hours in Tallinn. Breakfast was included at my hotel, so I was filling up on rice, eggs and a bean stew just after 07:00 in a cast but empty room.The weather had changed today. We had bright sunshine and cloudless skies which I was determined to make the most of – as you’ll see in pictures I’ll post later. Here’s a tip. If you want to experience Tallinn at its most peaceful and get pictures that do it justice -get out early. The tourist hordes start appearing by 8AM. Before that you almost have the streets to yourself.
I wandered for a couple of hours with no real plan where to go, other than on a whim. It was brilliant! I love exploring like thia as you’ve no idea what you’re going to find.
My train left at 10:18 but I made sure I was there in plenty of time to get a few pictures. The Valga service is worked by a modern Stadler built diesel unit which is more configured for local services with 3+2 seating and no plug sockets, although it does have wifi. It’s perfectly comfortable – just Spartan. Seat reservations are required but pointless as the cars aren’t numbered and nor are the seats.
I’ve saved a day on my Interrail pass by buying a local 2nd class ticket which works out cheaper. There’s not much difference between 1st and Standard Class on these trains anyway.
The trips been interesting as I’ve been able to see Rural Estonia. It’s heavily wooded and the variety of trees would keep a tree spotter very happy as it’s not just fir plantations, there’s plenty of deciduous trees like silver birch too. Housing is quite scattered with traditional wooden bungalows contrasting with small villages where the homes are more substantial. It’s quiet everywhere.
The railway’s seeing a lot of changes. ‘Rail Baltica’ construction work is obvious near Tallin, whilst the existing line’s seeing rural stations having platforms extended. Other locations are getting stations for the first tine.
One stop was Tapa, ehich vontained a preserved Soviet era steam loco and decaying station buildings. Akso, acres of empty freight sidings which presumably would have been full of freight traffic to/from Russia before Putin’s ‘3 day war’ in Ukraine which has now lasted longer than the ‘great patriotic war’ against Nazi Germany. Tapa still boasts a wagon repair shops and train stabling, which mark its importance.
12:15.
Since we called at Tamsalu we’ve been crawling along. Some times no faster than walking pace. This single-track section of line’s being electrified and having new signalling installed, which is affecting performance. I only hope this has been factored in to the journey time!
13:00.
We’ve made it as far as Tartu, which is as far as the new Southwards electrification will reach. A lot of passengers detrained here, which led to a pleasent discovery. This train does have plug sockets! They’re under the small tables in seating bays of four on the raised floor areas of each vehicle. That’s a relief as my phone battery was down to 50%.
15;05.
Despite the engineering work along the line we arrived in Valga spot on time. Our connecting train had arrived in the platform a few seconds before! The cross-platform interchange was easy. My new conveyance is rather more upmarket than the last as it has at seat catering services and is altogether more plush, with more tables (including backseat ones). I took advantage of the menus offered to me by one of the two young lady hostesses to order a black coffee (not bad) and a cinnamon bun. It set me back a grand total of three Euros fifty!
From this Estonian unit to…– this Lithuanian one, which works the international service from Varga through Riga to Vilnius.
Whilst this train’s more upmarket, I’m not sure about the ride quality. I’m sat in the same position I was on the earlier train and this one’s ‘hunting’ a lot. The 730m type are built by PESA of Poland whilst my earlier train was built by Stadler of Switzerland. Of course, the problem could just be the track. I can’t judge if Latvian railways have had the same level of investment that Estonia is seeing.
Another difference is that this train seems to be an ‘all stops’ service, which isn’t a problem. In some ways it makes it more interesting – as does the weather, which has turned into a mix of sunshine and showers! The countryside’s becoming more diverse too. It’s still heavily forested, but far more undulating, causing the railway to twist and turn.
23:00.
It’s time to close this blog. I’m now in Riga which is a world away from Tallinn, but fascinating in another way. I’ll explain more in tomorrow’s blog. I’ve two nights here, which is a luxury. Admittedly, the place I’m staying in isn’t luxurious – but it has a washing machine! I’ve now got a weeks worth of dirty clothes clean – even if my room resembles a Chinese laundry. I’m really looking forward to having time to explore tomorrow, knowing that I’m prepped for the next leg of the trip. In the meantime here’s the first few pictures from Riga.
These Soviet era diesel trains are still in use on some services. The DR1 design dates back to 1963 although this unit wasn’t built until after the collapse of the soviet union. The sides of the DR1A catch the evening sunlight.The eastern bloc feel continues on the streets where these Tatra T3 trams (a design dating back to 1960) are still in operation.
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The ferry from Stockholm to Tallinn was a great way to travel and a fascinating experience in people-watching. This wasn’t just a ferry, it’s more a cruise. There were live shows aboard, multiple restaurants, a piano bar and a massive duty-free shop which was doing a roaring trade as Swedes stocked up on cheap booze. Mind you, it wasn’t just Swedes or Estonians aboard. I was surprised to find groups of Chinese, Japanese and even Indian tourists travelling.
I didn’t join in the partying. Instead I retreated to my cabin for a good night’s sleep. The ferry was large enough that there was no pitching and rolling or feeling of being out at sea so a good night’s sleep was easy.
The Baltic Queen in Tallinn.
We arrived at Tallinn at 11:00. Sadly, the sunshine that’s followed me most of the trip decided to abandon me today. Tallinn had seen a downpour and residual but intermittent rain remained. For some that was no bad thing because when I walked into town I encountered the runners of the Tallinn marathon!
Marathon running. Not something you want to be doing in blazing heat.Encouragement. I’m not sure of the relevance of the dinosaur tho’..
As I had a couple of hours to kill before I could check into my hotel I watched the runners, many of whom had clearly come from all across Europe to take part. Next, I popped over to the railway station to check out the place before catching my train tomorrow. Sadly, Estonian railways has modernised their fleet in recent years. All that was around were modern diesel and electric multiple units. Good for passengers, but not so interesting from an enthusiasts perspective.
Passenger operator Elron uses modern Stadler ‘Flirt’ trains in Estonia.
Finally, it was time to get to my hotel in the old town, and it didn’t disappoint. The St Olav hotel’s a refurbished neoclassical building dating from 1437 with a quirky interior but comfortable rooms. It’s a great base from which to explore the old town, which is delightful.
You can’t beat a quirky vintage hotel.My room
I’ve enjoyed exploring Tallin, a medieval town with amazing buildings and streets which are full of nooks and crannies. Unsurprisingly, it can get very busy during the day with tourists – especially when cruise ships are visiting, but in the evening it’s much quieter which makes it a great time to explore. Here’s a few shots from my wanderings.
Not a menu for veggies. I don’t think I’ve ever seen somewhere with Elk on the menu before.A backstreet Italian restaurant. The rain returned this evening. Which always makes for good reflective pictures, especially now the streets are quiet. The remains of the old city walls.
I’ve enjoyed my day in Tallinn, it’s a gorgeous place rich in history. I’d certainly come back, but tomorrow I’m on the move again. This time to Riga in Latvia.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
