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Paul Bigland

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Paul Bigland

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Rolling blog: New Zealand day 19. Franz Josef glacier to Wanaka.

17 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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08:30

We’ve lucked out with the weather again. After an entertaining morning having breakfast at the backpackers and people-watching (more of which later) we’re packing the car in the rain.

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Low cloud surrounds the mountains at the moment and the forecast isn’t great – so we’re just going to have to play it by ear today. Our plan was to walk to the base of the glacier (well, as close to the base as you’re allowed nowadays) before heading off towards Fox glacier and some of the lakes. We’ll have to see..

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Here’s how the glacier looked yesterday…

11:56

Our luck held! The shower passed so by the time we got out to walk to the base of the glacier the clouds had cleared and the glacier was bathed in sunshine. As we walked up the path to get to the base if the glacier I was shocked by how much it had retreated since I heli-hiked on it in 1999. Here’s a rather sobering example. This selfie with the glacier in the background? In 1999 we’d have been buried at least 50m BELOW the glacier that you can now see high up the mountain behind us.

Here’s another view from yesterday. On my last visit the glacier extended as far as the rubble wall across the bottom of the valley.

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Here’s how it looked on my last visit in February, 1999. To give you an impression of scale, you can see a group of people stood on the glacier on the top right of this picture.

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So, next time some idiot tells you that Man-made climate change is a fiction and the earth’s cooling really, kick ’em where it hurts. This is the reality of what we’re doing to our planet…

Rolling blog: New Zealand. Day 18. The Tranzalpine to Greymouth & onward to Franz Josef glacier.

16 Wednesday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Railways, Rolling blogs, Travel

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08:05.

We’re aboard the Tranzalpine train, ready for the 08:15 off and one of the great railway journeys off the world. The train’s swankier than the last time I did the trip in 1999. There’s plug sockets and headphones nowadays, but one thing missing is the delicious West Coast Whitebait you used to be able to buy on the train. That said, there’s two modern buffet cars and observation coaches. This trains essentially two coupled together. I’ll post pictures when I can, but here’s a taster – the interior of our coach (F).

14:50.

We’re now in Greymouth after a superb trip. I’ll blog about it in detail later as there’s lots to mention, but right now I’ll leave you with these pictures. The first’s from the train as we climbed up to Arthur’s Pass.

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This one is as we head towards Greymouth.

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Here’s a couple of the stunning scenery you see from the train.

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21:18.

It’s been a great day. After picking up our hire car in Greymouth we drove down the West Coast as far as Franz Josef glacier. I’ve not been here for 30 years, so I was shocked to see how much the glacier has retreated. We don’t have broadband with enough oomph to upload the pictures I’ve taken today, so I’ll add them to this blog as soon as possible. One irony was realising that the backpackers that we’re staying in is the same one as last time I was here. At least some things don’t change – although in those days you didn’t get young girls travelling sporting bags of make-up, false eyelashes and a ‘trout pout’!

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 17. Mt Lydon to Christchurch.

14 Monday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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09:00

We’re on the move again today after two lovely nights staying up in the hills near Mt Lydon at this gorgeous Airbnb owned by Stephanie, who’s shared this wonderful space with us.

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Now we’re beginning the trip down to Christchurch, stopping off on the way, so expect some blogging and pictures later…

11:50

We’re talking a break in Cheviot, a small town on highway one after driving across some pretty rugged countryside to get here. There’s not much here apart from a few shops and cafe’s – although it does have a library and school. The place seems to make it’s living as a pit stop for travellers heading to/from Christchurch.

21:55

We’re now hunkered down in our new Airbnb in Christchurch, where we’ll be staying for the next couple of nights. It’s comfortable (and suburban, only 20 mins walk from the city centre) but it’s certainly not as amazing as where we’ve just come from. That said, Christchurch itself is a bit of an eye-opener. I’ve never ever been to a city where 80% of the city centre has been flattened by earthquakes before. I was here 20 years ago but there’s nothing I recognise apart from the shattered remains of the cathedral. Oh – and the trams. It’s a very sobering experience, looking around at all the new buildings, the few old ones that have been rebuilt, and others that are awaiting their turn. Then there’s all the open spaces that used to be buildings but are now parks – or car parks. Christchurch was hit twice, in September 2010 and again in February 2011, the latter earthquake killed a total of 185 people, which seems miraculous when you consider the scenes of destruction.

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Tram 1888 passes all the new buildings on Oxford Terrace, with the Avon river to the right. 

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The driver of tram 178 changes the points behind him as the vehicle prepares to head for the tramshed at the end of the day. The tramway runs through the ‘Cathedral Junction’ shopping centre.

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The remains of Christchurch cathedral, with the base of the spire in the foreground.

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 13. Wine tasting in Marlborough.

10 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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Today, we will mostly be drinking wine! We’ve joined the ‘Bubbly Grape’ wine tasting tour where a minibus is taking us around lots of vineyards in the Marlborough region.  The tour was really good fun. There was only 6 of us so it was rather intimate instead of being part of a large anonymous group. In all we visited 6 cellar doors, starting with the Brancott estate, which kicked off the Marlborough wine boom way back in 1973. You’ll have also seen their wines marketed under their original name of Montana. Without doubt, their cellar door has the best location we visited as it sits on a ridge overlooking the vineyards, giving views for miles. Here’s a couple of pictures.

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The Brancott staff were very knowledgeable and we were also treated to a short video which explained about the various regions that make up the Marlborough area. I have to say, they’re not my favourite wines, but we did get to try a variety, from Sauvignons to Pinot Noirs. They’re certainly worth a visit.

Our second stop was at Villa Maria who produce wines both Dawn and I love. When we booked for the tour we’d been asked if their were specific vineyards we wanted to visit and this was one of our choices. Villa Maria produce a wide variety of wines that they don’t sell on the UK market which is a real shame as they’ve got some stunners. They’ve also won a heap of awards for them. Here’s their cellar door.

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Once again, the staff were incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. We tried a wide selection of wines, including an excellent rose and dessert wine. These might not be to everyone’s tastes, but trying new ones is half the fun of these events. Several of us were so impressed that we ended up buying different bottles. Villa Maria were unusual in that many of their wines are branded specific to the vineyard the grapes come from, whilst many others use a blend. Here’s a list of the wines on offer and the awards won – as well as prices.

villamaria

The next place we visited was also on our list: Cloudy Bay. When we arrived we could see that it was rather different from the others. It was very upmarket – if not a little swanky. The wines were very good but they do charge a premium price for them. It was only when we were leaving that we found out why. Cloudy Bay is owned by Louis Vuitton!

The third cellar door we visited couldn’t have been more different. It was a locally owned family winemaker called Allan Scott who produces some very good wines. Here we are at their cellar door.

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We also broke for lunch here as they have a lovely outdoor restaurant that serves some excellent fish dishes. I chose these gorgeous clams.

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After lunch we moved on to another locally owned and family run vineyard: Forrest (who also market their wine under ‘The Doctors’ label – as the couple who set up the vineyard were both doctors)! Here’s what we tried and the range of prices, complete with tasting notes.

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Next (and last) on the list was Giesen, a vineyard run by three German bothers. The German influence on the wines was quite noticeable, many of us fond them too sweet, but they were certainly worth trying just as a contrast. They also had something unique – which several of us really enjoyed: “Pomme de Gris” – a mixture of white wine and cider! It really worked as a long, refreshing drink…

cider

All in all it was a great day out. You get to try a real variety of wines from brands you may never of heard of before. You learn a lot about Marlborough (and Hawke’s Bay) wines and eat some lovely food. There’s even a stop at a chocolate producers at the end of the trip! Needless to say, we couldn’t resist buying something to quaff over the next few days…

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A Favour to ask
If you enjoy reading these blogs, please consider clicking on an advert – or two! You don’t have to buy anything, honest! The clicks just help me cover the cost of running this blog. Many thanks, Paul

 

 

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 11. Wellington to Blenheim, South Island.

08 Tuesday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Transport, Travel

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After a very sociable few days (but far too short a time) we’re on the move again. Today we catch the Interislander ferry to Picton on the top of the South Island, so watch this space…

10:29

We’re currently in the aquatic no-man’s land between North and South islands, aboard the Dutch built ferry “Kaitaki”. The weather’s absolutely stunning, with clear blue skies and the only cloud in evidence clinging to the mountainous slopes of the North Island. Needless to say I’ve been busy with the camera.

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After a very sociable few days (but far too short a time) we’re on the move again. Today we catch the Interislander ferry to Picton on the top of the South Island, so watch this space…

10:29

We’re currently in the aquatic no-man’s land between North and South islands, aboard the Dutch built ferry “Kaitaki”. The weather’s absolutely stunning, with clear blue skies and the only cloud in evidence clinging to the mountainous slopes of the North Island. Needless to say I’ve been busy with the camera.

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Passing the bottom of the North Island

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Sailing up Marlborough Sound

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The view from the stern of the ferry as we sail up Marlborough sound towards Picton.

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Our ferry does a U-turn at Picton to reverse into its berth. 

14:05.

Having picked up our hire car we’re having a lazy lunch at “cockles”, a lovely seafood bistro on the railway station at Picton. Here’s their prawns (which were delicious).

The mussel and cockle patty’s were pretty damned good too!

Not surprisingly, this is a good place to watch trains. We’re sat within 10 feet of the Afternoon departure from Picton to Christchurch.

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 10. More Wellington wanderings…

07 Monday Jan 2019

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The weather’s picked up here in Wellington and the heavy cloud we had yesterday has deferred to its fluffier, more broken cousins. Today’s going to be rather sociable as 10 of us are meeting up for a meal this evening. We’ve a couple of friends from the UK (Merv and Alexa) who’re travelling in the opposite direction to us (South Island to North) and they pitch up in Wellington this afternoon, along with Alexa’s daughter. Meanwhile, another old friend of Dawn’s is coming along with her family, so we’re going to be mob handed for our last night in Wellington as tomorrow we catch the ferry to Picton on to the South Island.

12:36.

We’ve spent a fascinating hour or so in the Te Anu museum, learning about how the Maori spread across the Pacific and made their way to New Zealand all those centuries ago. Talk about prodigious feats of navigation!

Now we’re soaking up the sun and enjoying a spot of calmari for lunch on the harbour front.

As expected yesterday turned into a very convivial day. Here’s the group at the end of it.

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Rolling blog: New Zealand day 8. Napier to Wellington.

05 Saturday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in Architecture, New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Transport, Travel

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After a very pleasant 24 hours exploring the Art Deco delights of Napier we’re on the move again. This time we’re taking the Intercity bus all the way to Wellington, our final North Island stop on this part of the trip. It’s a long-haul on a sold-out double-deck coach. That takes almost 6 hours. We’d have liked to have seen more of Napier and the adjacent town of Hastings (which also has some lovely buildings) but when you’ve only got a month…

Anyway, here’s a few shots from Napier.

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The town has a lovely, laid back atmosphere which makes it a very pleasant place to while away a few hours, admiring the buildings, or just sitting outside one of the many cafes to watch the world go by. In February Napier hosts an Art Deco festival, which sounds delightful. With all the palm trees and wall to wall sunshine, the place reminds me more of California than Cleethorpes! The shops are more upmarket too. Dawn was impressed with the quality of the clothes shops and I noticed the organic grocery stores and music shops – not to mention the business dedicated to Art Deco memorabilia. The theme pervades to the town, but not in a tacky, commercial way, more in a celebration of the design. This manifests itself in carefully designed shop signs, or even displays of old wireless in some of the bars. Talking of bars, that’s one thing that’s missing – a proper brew pub! Instead, the town suffers the curse of the ‘plastic Paddy’Irish theme bar – although one of the main ones has closed down – leaving a site ripe for development in the way I’ve mentioned.

15:52.

We’re well on the way to Palmerston North now, having passed through a series of small Kiwi towns en-route. As before, they feel more American than English, mostly because they’re resolutely low rise and many of the smaller building are constructed from timber. The scenery’s another matter. This is Scotland in all but name.

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17:01

We’ve just had a half-hour break in Palmerston North, which would’ve been lovely if it wasn’t for the fact that it’s Sunday, so the place is closed! It’s a large town too, but the centre of town around the bus station’s deserted. We managed to find one cafe nearby for a quick drink and a loo stop, but it was all a bit rushed. Whilst we were sitting there I spotted this sign in the window, which was slightly disconcerting.

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Heading on from Palmerston we followed highway 1 down the coast to Wellington. It was a lovely drive as the road hugs the coast before weaving & winding its way through the hills that surround Wellington. I’d forgotten just how rugged the landscape is around the city. The roads were remarkably quiet, despite it being the end of the summer holiday for many people.

On arrival at Wellington we were met by an old friend of Dawn’s. Although originally from Yorkshire, Helen has lived over here for many years.  The three of us had a lovely evening at Helen’s home, chatting whilst sharing  Shepherds pie over a glass of wine. The two hadn’t seen each other for 25 years, so I left them to do some catching up and retreated to do a spot of picture editing, so here’s another selection of shots from Napier.

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Napier’s main beach is dark shingle and the power of the sea makes it unsuitable for swimming by the inexperienced, but it is beautiful to walk along and watch.

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 7. Rotarua to Napier.

04 Friday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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We’re on the move again today. Our day started at 6am due to the strong sunlight streaming through our chalet windows straight onto the bed. The day seemed too good to miss so we were up early, sipping tea and coffee whilst watching the backpackers stumble into life. A bonus was that a staff member pointed out the Saturday market opposite our rooms on the nearby car park so we wandered over to have a look and see what we might grab for breakfast. The market was a relaxed little affair selling some excellent local fruit and veg, bric-a-brac, handicrafts, plants and a variety of Asian cuisine. You could get Indian street food (Dosas ,bhelpuri etc). Chinese steamed pork buns and dim sum or (for the real carnivores) steak sandwiches. We opted for the buns & dim sun. The market was popular with people of all ages and communities and seems to be quite an institution.

We’re temporarily homeless again right now and taken up residence outside the tourist office for the next hour until the Intercity bus arrives to take us to Napier. It’s an attractive place to while away an hour, watching the world go by…

18:13

We’re now relaxing in the sun on the roof of our backpackers in Napier after a really interesting day.

When a fairly old single deck coach pitched up to take us to Napier I didn’t hold out much for the journey, but it was far better than I expected. Our first stop was at Taupo, which sits on the edge of a massive lake of the same name. It makes Lake Windermere look like a puddle! You can see it behind this rather odd tourist train that perambulates through the park.

Clearly, Taupo is a base for lots of outdoor activities and seemed a really busy, touristy place. But it wasn’t where we wanted to be. The next part of the journey was the section that surprised me. Our coach began twisting and climbing some roads that wouldn’t have been out of place in the Alps, whilst the scenery was so Scottish it’d have made many tartan-wearers homesick! The only thing that wasn’t typical was the weather, which was stunning. We had horizon to horizon clear blue skies. I gave my phone to Dawn to take a few pictures as she had the window seat. Here’s a sample.

Napier’s a lovely little place with a really interesting (but tragic) history because the town was flattened by an earthquake in 1931 that left scores dead. It was rebuilt in the contemporary architectural stye of the time: Art Deco, which gives the place a time-warp feel and a legacy of some stunning buildings. I’ll add some pictures in the next blog.

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 6. Rotorua ramble

03 Thursday Jan 2019

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It’s a beautifully sunny day here in Rotorua so we’ve started the day slowly, enjoying coffee in the sun whilst watching the comings and goings at the backpackers where we’re staying. Our chalet room is on the basic side of basic, but we’re only here for a couple of nights so it’s no problem. We’re right next to a park full of the hot springs and bubbling mud pools that have made the place famous. You certainly know they’re around due to the sulphur content – which is enough to close off your sinuses!

The springs run throughout the town. Many hotels offer hot spa pools and where ever you walk in town you’re likely to get a sudden nasal assault, as if you’ve just walked passed a blocked drain!

Right now we’re off to visit a Maori village…

17:40.

We’re back from Whakarewarewa, the Maori village, so here’s a quick selection of pictures, I’ll add details later.

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After a day toasting from the sun and breathing hot sulphur springs, it’s time to cool down with one of these…

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The Maori village was really interesting because this wasn’t a Government sponsored tourist site -it was a genuine Maori village run by the people who still live there. They’ve been welcoming guests ever since 1874, when they were approached by the Government who wanted to attract visitors. The local clan chief had the nous to say to them “alright, but this is our gig – we don’t need you”. As our young lady guide said “the difference between other places and us is we live here, we don’t go home from work at the end of the night, this IS our home” 60 Maori still live in the village which is built amidst the most amazing landscape of hot springs and geysers. It was a much more interesting experience than the normal tourist ones because our guide was part of the community she was showing us around and could give you so much more detail about real life in the village – almost gossip if you like, rather than detached, dry history. So, all the dancers you see in the performance can be seen back in the village later, just living their everyday lives.

20:26.

We’re now back in the backpackers, catching up on the internet of things before heading off for an early night as we’re on the move again tomorrow. This time it’s to yet another contrast, a place called Napier. This is a town that was flattened by an earthquake in 1931 so most of it was rebuilt in the architectural style of the time: Art Deco.

Rolling blog: New Zealand, day 5 (Auckland to Rotarua).

02 Wednesday Jan 2019

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I’ll be honest, I’ve had mixed feelings about moving on from Auckland as it’s been great being here. I really like the feel of the place and staying at KKs AirBnB has been a pleasure. On the plus side, we’re both feeling much better physically and we’re looking forward to exploring.

Getting from Mt Roskill to the Sky City bus terminal was pretty painless. The 25L bus stops almost outside KKs gate, so for $11 we got dropped by the Civic theatre, five minute walk from the terminal. Admittedly, it’s a fun 5 minwutes as you’re dragging suitcases uphill as Auckland is anything but flat!

This is my first bus trip here since 1999 and my, has the quality changed!

This double-deck beastie has Wi-Fi, plug sockets, table seats in bays of four and many other mod cons. What hasn’t changed is the fact the drivers are still comedians (something I remember vividly from my last visit). There’s no seat reservations, so I asked the driver if we could sit where we liked. His reply was “sure, just leave me the one with the steering wheel”!

We’re departing Auckland now (09:30) for the 4 hour journey. I’ll keep you posted on the trip…

09:47.

On highway 1 heading South. Lane discipline here is somewhat on the liberal side…

09:56.

Our first stop’s been at Manukau on the outskirts of Auckland. The whole area appears to have sprung up in recent years and the bus terminal appears almost new. Dozens of passengers have joined us and the coach is now 90% full with a mix of young European backpackers, senior travellers (I suppose that’s me now!) and Kiwis from all communities.

10:20

Next stop: Papakura, a small town on the railway with a real mix of buildings (some colonial) and a wide variety of shops. I’m struck by how much food’s improved in NZ in the past 20 years thanks to the Asian influx. Sushi’s a staple nowadays and spice shops are common. It’s all a far cry from how I remember it! The top deck of our coach gives grandstand views into the suburban gardens we pass and the tally of children’s trampolines makes me realise just how homogenous the world’s becoming.

11:11.

Lovely! We’ve just passed the yard of a house relocator near Hampton Downs who does exactly what he claims. His yard contains a couple of dozen wooden bungalows of all shapes and sizes that’s he’s picked up from elsewhere and put up for sale!

11:26

We’re South of Huntley now and it’s easy to see from the landscape why the Scots felt so at home here.

The road parallels the railway for long stretches at this point. There’d be some great photo opportunities along here – but nothing’s running!
12:00

We’ve arrived at Hamilton, where there’s a melee as we exchange passengers. I’ve lost count of the numbers rushing to the top deck front seats only to find them occupied! On the way in we passed the local locomotive depot which was full of stabled electrics due to the holidays.

12:33.

Our penultimate stop: Cambridge. There’s not a University in sight and the oldest building’s less than 200 years, but it’s a well-kept little place that’s provided more churn to our numbers.

17:30.

We’ve settled into our backpackers and enjoyed an afternoon enjoying the sights (and smells) of Rotorua, which is pretty much tourist central nowadays. There’s a lot of modern development combined with some lovely old touches, such as this former Spa (latterly a museum) which is being restored following damage suffered in the 2016 earthquake.

Our day ended by sampling a local craft beer establishment as well as a former police station that’s been converted into a pub and named the Pig and Whistle, after which, we ended up at the Thursday night market and sampled some stunning food. Here’s a sample of what was on offer.

We ended up eating at Johnny’s dumpling house, a stall so popular that the queues were massive. When you sampled his wares it was easy to see why. The portions were huge and the dumplings divine! dg315474crop

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