I’ve rather enjoyed September. Admittedly, spending half of it in Portugal helped! Talking of which, I’ve broken the back of editing pictures from our tour. You can find the majority of them in these two galleries;
Plus, there’s a few others that you’ll find in the ships and shipping gallery.
Picture editing has consumed most of these past few days as I’ve been busy getting stuff out to clients whilst updating my Zenfolio website – and discussing a future project that will utilise some of the library pictures that I’ve been adding to it. Now, the pressure’s off a little so I may be able to have a day out this week, depending on how much I get done tomorrow as I prepare for a busy week next week. I’ll be in Nottingham for the Community Rail Network conference, then heading to Swindon for another job with the PWI when the focus will be on overhead electrification instead of track. I only hope that the weather Gods smile on us again. Whatever, my camera’s certainly going to be kept busy!
In the meantime, here’s today’s picture, which is from Portugal. Regular readers of this blog will know I have many interests, including railways – and architecture. Sometimes they combine, like this;
This is the magnificent concourse of São Bento (Saint Benedict in English) railway station in Porto. Construction started in 1904 and faced many challenges over the years before it was completed. It was designed by Porto architect José Marques da Silva. It’s famous for the murals, which represent moments in the country’s history and depict rural scenes showing the people of various regions. In the late afternoons this area is packed with tourists on guided tours who’re there to admire these glorious murals and learn about the history. There’s not many railway stations around the world that are on tourist maps like this!
You can find many more pictures of São Bento if you click on the link I posted earlier in this blog.
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I’ve not been blogging daily from here in Olhos de Água as my writing would have resembled a teenagers diary of the ‘got up, had breakfast, went to the beach, came home’ kind. The reality was far more exciting than the routine sounds. For a start, Praia do Barranco is a beautiful beach! It’s a few kilometers long strip of golden sand bordered by amazing cliffs. Once you get away from the areas lined with sunbeds and brollies where most visitors congregate it’s pretty deserted. With it being the Atlantic, the sea’s hardly tropically warm, but it’s still a damned sight warmer than off the UK and ideal for playing in the waves. Here’s a few pictures.
The studio where we’re staying is in a peaceful, well-laid out complex that has plenty of space and includes landscaped gardens with a profusion of flowers, like these.
We’ve also been fortunate to find a really good local restaurant and bar, frequented by tourists and locals alike. Miraparque serves the best Sardines and Tuna steaks we’ve had on this trip, and the prices are hardly extortionate. 9.95 Euros for a plate of 6 freshly grilled Sardines with potatoes and a side salad, whilst the beautifully grilled Tuna steak is 12.50. To make life easier there’s a really good supermarket next door, ideal for stocking up on fruit and drink to take to the beach.
Ironically, having had only one cloudy day throughout the trip we woke up to overcast skies today, which has put the mockers on our plans to make the most of the swimming pool here. Ah, well. Maybe the weather’s trying to tell us something. In a few hours time we’ll be heading for Faro airport before catching an 18:05 flight back to Leeds/Bradford. We’ve both loved out time in Portugal and fallen in live with Porto and where we’re staying now. We’re already planning on coming back.
I’ll add more to this blog later…
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I’mstill 24 hours behind in my blogs but I’m hoping to catch up tomorrow as life here where we’re staying in Olhos de Água is a lot more relaxed. Our touring is over, now there’s time to enjoy beach-time..
Leaving Lisbon wasn’t without its regrets. We’d loved staying there to explore different facets of the city. It’s certainly changed since we were last here in 2010 and some of those changes haven’t been for the better, even so, it remains a great city.
Having checked out of our hotel we had one last superb pastry breakfast outside the station whilst admiring the trio of cruise ships which had arrived overnight. Some of these things are behemoths, more akin to a floating town than a ship.
Having fortified ourselves we caught a local train to Oriente station where our Intercity service to Albufeira was due to leave at 14:02. Oriente’s a really interesting multi-level, modern station built in 1998. In some ways it reminds me of Berlin Hauptbahnhof – only without the layered railways. Below tracks it’s an exercise in futuristic concrete and shopping whilst above tracks its roof owes more to Moorish traditions and austere platforms.
Dawn’s refective sunglasses were ideal for playing around with shots like this…Our train to the South, hauled by 5620, one of 30 Class 5600 electric locomotives built by Siemens and Sorefame between 1993-95 which are the mainstay of Portugese Intercity and regional services after the high-speed ‘Alfa Pendular’ EMUs.
Our train South was packed. As it was probably our last rail journey of this trip I’d booked us into 1st Class, which was an interesting experience as we had seats in the ‘half and half’ car which is split between 1st class and the buffet area. That’s fine, apart from the fact there’s bugger all luggage storage compared to a normal 1st class coach. Either you stick your cases in the overhead luggage racks or you leave ’em clogging the isles.
The train was packed, so people-watching was always going to be fun. We had one group of middle-aged American women who embarked at Entrecampos. Having dumped their bags in the racks they demanded a family move as they were occupying ‘their’ seats. Needless to say, the Yanks were in the wrong carriage! Once we were settled into the journey and Dawn was dozing in her seat I nipped next door to have a beer in the buffet car and indulge in more people watching as the coach wifi wasn’t playing ball, so the blogging I’d intended to do went out of the window.
The buffet car’s popular with late travellers who’ve booked a ticket but can’t get a seat reservation so some people ensconce themselves for the duration, either in the table bays or squatting on the stools lining the coach sides. Many others drift in and out, giving you an idea of how international the clientele are. The Portugese woman behind the counter was kept on her feet all the way but still dealt with the queues with aplomb. There’s all ages and backgrounds on these trains. One battered old Portugese chap caught my eye. His luggage consisted of a sleeping bag in a carrier bag and a small daypack. His clothes and straw hat were as weathered as his face. He kept himself to himself as he chugged red wine, but I got the impression he’d seen a few things in life. He was another people-watcher too…
What could be finer? Observing people and watching the world go by…
We arrived at Albufeira late, but that was no real problem. We grabbed one of the plentiful taxis at the station and within 25 minutes (and some confusion over door numbers) we entered our new abode – which is a lovely little villa on an enclosed estate. I’ll post pictures tomorrow.
Having settled in we explored our new ‘manor’. There’s several restaurants and a supermarket just down the road. We plumped for one local eaterie and ended up having some of the best (and best value) Sardines of the trip – just 9.95 Euros for this little lot!
Tomorrow we’ll be staying close to home and checking out the beaches as this is the restful part of the trip. Plus, we hear the weather back in the UK is less than clement, so we’re going to make the most of wall to wall sunshine and temperatures in the 30s whilst we can!
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We’ve begun the trek back to the Algarve from Porto, a place both of us really didn’t want to leave. It’s a fascinating city the pair of us rather fell in love with. Personally, it has everything I enjoy, amazing architecture, cosmopolitan people, great food and drink – and interesting transport infrastructure. What’s not to like?
Well, maybe the weather – especially this morning as we left when it was chucking down. That said, it was a minor inconvenience. A bus to the station stopped right outside our hotel. At 07:10, it took us 20 minutes to Campanhã through sodden, deserted streets. We sought refuge in a cafe opposite the station and fortified ourselves with coffee whilst watching the locals come and go. I love people-watching and cafes and bars around railway stations are ideal observation points.
Our intercity train South arrived a few minutes late and lost time throughout, but that wasn’t a problem as (in theory) we couldn’t check into our hotel for another three hours after arriving at Lisbon Santa Apolónia. The weather was miserable throughout the trip so there was little to do but doze on the packed train. Fortunately, conditions broke as we approached the city outskirts. To add to the brightening mood we didn’t need to kick our heels in Lisbon either as the hotel had our room readily available. Oh, I forgot to mention, we hadn’t far to go as for the next three nights we’re staying at the station in the gorgeous Editory Riverside hotel! Both the hotel and station have a lovely feel to them – as I hope this selection of pictures portray.
We’ve not done a huge amount on our first day in Lisbon, mainly because our attempt to traverse the No 28 tram route was foiled by the service falling down. We gave up after waiting over an hour for a tram, but we’ll try again tomorrow.
In the meantime, here’s some of what we have been up to.
The weather was still a bit moody when we arrived, as this sky over Praça do Comércio illustrates…Residential tower block? Almost. This was a cruise ship moored in the dock by the station. Name the Otis Redding song (thanks to Dawn for spotting this image). Lisbon Santa Apolónia station is a relaxed place, but it has a lovely atmosphere and great facilitiesThe lobby of our hotel. Nice, innit? We’re on the 2nd floor, where the window at the end of the corridor allows this view across the station.
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Today’s another blog which is light on words but heavy on pictures. This has very much been a day of two halves, partly due to the weather, which was glorious this morning but crap this afternoon. Not that I’m complaining. The heavy cloud made backstreet photography easier as there were less contrasting conditions. Here’s an idea of what we got up to…
We took the tram out along the Douro to the river mouth, where St. John the Baptist of Foz Fort still guards the entrance to the river. There’s not much to see inside, but the walls look impressive and the views are rather good. Outside the fort is the Praia do Carneiro, a local beach were you can watch the Atlantic ocean break on these rocks offshore, safe in the knowledge that 1000s of miles of empty ocean separate mainland Europe from Donald Trump’s America. Next stop was Porto tram museum which is housed in the old power station which supplied electricity to the tram network. There’s a great selection of restored trams showcasing the history and development of the network.The adjacent building houses some of the original power generating equipment and switchgear. It’s an amazing room where steampunk meets ‘Metropolis’. Wandering through the streets of the old town my eye caught this sign outside a restaurant. It’s not often you hear someone using ‘force majeure’ nowadays! The backstreets of the old town are fascinating. You never know quite what you’ll find…
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It’s late in the evening back here in Porto. The pair of us have had a long, enjoyable day traversing the Douro valley to Pochino and back by train. Now we’re knackered and relaxing at our hotel. I’ve managed to get the wifi working so I can post a few pictures from today. I want to write a full blog about the trip as it’s well worth the effort, but I’ve hundreds of photos to edit first. Plus, this is meant to be a holiday!
What I will say is the train journey is amazing, but stay on it to the end of the line as the Douro valley changes character a couple of times, from lush wine country to wild landscapes and gorges that remind me of the Waikeri railway on New Zealand’s South Island. Anyways, here’s a few pictures from today. As you can see, we were blessed with stunning weather.
The railway runs through fertile areas full of vineyards like this……and this....then passes through rugged gorges like this, where the railway hugs the side of the riverIn many places the railway runs just a few meters above the river, passing through many tunnels en-route.Many trains on the line consist of vintage coaches hauled by these vintage locos – the British designed Class 1400, which are powered by English Electric engines. 67 were built between 1967-69, with many still remaining in service. Here’s 1438 running round our train at the end of the line – Porchino.
Tomorrow we’ve a day exploring the delights of Porto, which is a city I’ve really taken to. I love the architecture, ambience and cosmopolitan nature of the place, so we’re looking forward to having time to mooch around.
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We’ve had a hectic first full day here in Faro, exploring the old and new towns, soaking up the sunshine and enjoying the local cuisine. We both love fish, so Portugal (a country synonymous with Sardines) is right up our street. Our wanderings took us through the narrow backstreets of the old town and into the delightful cathedral, which is a baroque dream. The roof of the belltower also doubles as a fantastic viewpoint across the town, and provide an ideal place to watch planes taking off from the airport nearby.
The railway station’s only a stone’s throw from where we’re staying, so I managed to pop in and get my railway fix in advance of us catching the train to Porto tomorrow. All in all, it’s been a really enjoyable day. There’s a big music festival happening across the old town tonight but as the weather’s changed due to sea mist and drizzle rolling in across the town we decided discretion was the better part of valour. Instead, we’ve adjourned to our hotel in order to rest our weary feet, full stomachs and pack – ahead of a silly o’ clock start in the morning as we’ll be on an 07:00 train.
Here’s a few pictures from today.
These diesel units provide local rail services around Faro. They’re not in the best of external condition due to regular attacks from grafitti vandals. 19 of these units were built by Portugese company Sorefame in 1965 as Class 0400. They were modernised in the late 1990s and reclassified Class 0450. Cast iron balcony railings and ornate street lamps are a theme of Faro.The marina in the centre of Faro is a pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by. Fun and frolics in the old town, which has a vibrant artistic and youthful feel to it despite the age of the buildings.When I said the cathedral was a baroque delight, I wasn’t kidding! – and more…Faro is well known for Storks building their nests on some of the old buildingsWe were wandering the back streets near the municipal market when we stumbled on this architectural delight!Oh, remember I mentioned Sardines? Whilst Dawn tucked into a plate of them I’d opted for the Squid. Unfortunately, my squid was overcooked, but the Sardines weren’t bad. Sadly, we’d had to take pot luck when it came to eating as the place that was our first choice had a knackered card machine and could only take cash. We’re looking forward to getting better in Porto and Lisbon. Even so, this was a healthier and tastier option that some. The queue of local ‘Deliveroo’ riders outside the back of McDonald’s was both instructive, and depressing.
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Well, we’ve made it to Leeds/Bradford airport, which is a start, although it wasn’t without hiccups! We’d had a leisurely morning finishing our packing and making sure the cottage was shipshape for the friends who’ll be looking after it whilst we were away – then it was time to go. The taxi got us to Halifax station in plenty of time, but that’s where things went wrong. I’d checked train times earlier in the day when everything seemed tickety-boo. Only, in the intervening time a signalling failure had occurred, causing delays and cancellations in the area. Our train to Bradford was on time but it was sufficiently delayed en-route that we missed our bus connection to the airport. It was no big deal, it simply gave us an extra 30 mins to admire Bradford Interchange bus station!
Well, as bus stations go…
Our luck changed when we boarded the bus as the driver’s ticket machine was kaput, so we got a free ride to the airport! The A3 took us through a variety of places en-route, from the edge of wonderful little Germany, through Manningham (not so wonderful) to Shipley, Guiseley and Yeadon. It was a fascinating journey through many areas we don’t usually frequent before we were dropped right outside the airport terminal.
The airport’s undergoing a major expansion of facilities at the moment, but that didn’t slow us down. Check-in was speedy and security a breeze, despite the numbers of people here. Having the latest kit so there’s no faffing with talking laptops etc out of bags certainly helps.
Now we’re killing time airside in a bar in the new airport extension, which is as busy as the rest of the place. It’s an ‘interesting’ place to people-watch. The vast majority of people here are package or other holiday-makers heading into Europe. It’s a vary different atmosphere to an international hub like Heathrow!
18:10.
Our train wasn’t the only thing that’s late. Our plane is too – by 30 mins so far. Still, it’s going to be good to be in the air and heading for Europe.
Grins all round!
00:23.
I wouldn’t normally update a blog late into the next day. I’ll fill in the rest tomorrow, but suffice it to say our first night here in Faro has been such a breath of fresh air – and just what we needed.
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This morning the weather was less than kind to us here in Church Stretton. We were greeted by low, grey clouds over the Long Mynd along with sporadic showers, so we were in no rush to get out. When we did the plan that developed was to drive down to Leominster across the border into Herefordshire. It’s a town I’ve never visited although I’ve passed through by train many times.
Our experience of Leominster was mixed. Architecturally it’s fascinating with building design spanning hundreds of years. The layout of much of the town centre is still mediaeval, although many buildings have been replaced (not always sympathetically). But, compared Ludlow to it’s very shabby. Many of the buildings are in a poor state of repair. Plus, there’s a lot of vacant properties. But what the town centre does have in abundance is seamstresses and antique shops. Hence Drapers Lane.
Here’s another couple of pictures from Leominster.
I love the old shop windows here. Talk about in need of some TLC. Subsidence is a real issue for old buildings in this neck of the woods.
Escaping Herefordshire and its bad roads (noticeably different to Shropshire) we headed back to Ludlow for lunch and a mooch around a town which we really like. It’s far better maintained and more affluent than Leominster, although you can see a common heritage.
The last original gate in the former walled town of Ludlow, with a handy pub outside.
Today was one of the market days so a good time to have a wander. At lunchtime lunch we we ate at Kin Kitchen on Old St, which is a modern cafe bar in an old building they’ve refurbished. If the weather’s good there’s a great garden at the back. Both of us opted for the Meze plate which was really tasty.
After lunch we continued our exploration of the town. The variety of old buildings is fascinating – as are the nooks and crannies with cottages tucked away in the most unlikely places. Whilst the properties look amazing I’d hate to think what the maintenance costs must be as it’s obvious Ludlow suffers similar subsidence problems to Leominster. We stopped for on last drink in what’s allegedly the oldest pub in Ludlow, the Rose and Crown. It’s another Joule’s brewery pub which offers a good range of ales and also serves food.
Back at Church Stretton we had a relaxing evening at home. Dawn cooked another amazing veggie meal whilst I nipped out to get a couple of pictures at the railway station.
A Transport for Wales Class 150 calls at Church Stretton whilst working 2V30, the 1835 Shrewsbury to Swansea service via the Heart of Wales line.One of Transport for Wales hired-in Class 67s thunders through the station non-stop on 1W96, the 1722 Cardiff Central to Holyhead.
Tomorrow we’ll be staying local to enjoy the improving weather and local walks.
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Remember yesterday when I said it might be touch and go making the last train to Halifax from Manchester Airport? Well, it was less touch and even less go…
My plane was late leaving Amsterdam Schipol, which didn’t really help. The flight itself was fine. The crew were good, we were given nibbles (and wine) without being charged for them and I was quietly optimistic that I’d make my connection. Then we landed at Manchester.
For some reason, KLM didn’t get an air-bridge, we were stuck out on the tarmac and bussed into the terminal, which ate into precious minutes. Then things turned into a farce. We couldn’t get off the buses and into the terminal because ‘the man with the key’ had disappeared! An aged member of ground staff took strange delight in telling us this. No apology, no appreciating the fact it was going to fcuk people’s connections, he treated it as a joke. As for the man with the key – you have one job…
When we finally got into the building I saw a sign that told me I was exactly 497 meters away from Immigration. Oh, joy – another half-click to walk before I get anywhere. By this time I’d given up all hope of catching the train so I texted Dawn accordingly. To be fair, the passport scanning gates worked well and my suitcase was waiting for me on the carousel, but it was all a bit late after the earlier farces.
So, plan B…
Yep, I’m still at the airport. I could have got a later train but that would deposit me in Halifax in the early hours and disturb Dawn as I’d arrive home around 2am. Instead, I’ve opted to stay at the airport, make the most of the wifi and start the marathon task of picture editing before catching a train around 04:00. A service that time of day will see me come in the front door of the cottage just as Dawn’s waking up. Besides, after the past month’s travelling my body-clock’s all over the place anyway – and this is hardly my first airport experience.
Whilst I’m here I’ve time to add a few more pictures to the blog, starting with this – my train to Oslo airport.
There’s one song that reflections my generation and its experiences. It’s neatly summed up in this picture taken at the airport. It’s a Beatles song that I just can’t stop humming on this trip. ‘Norwegian wood‘.
I swear to God, tomorrow I am going nowhere. There’s plenty to keep me occupied with at home. Plus, it’s a chance to detox after so much hospitality. That said, I’ve really enjoyed all the fish you get at breakfast.
It’s silly o’ clock, so time to head to the railway station via the 5th dimension
Select the sci-fi music of your choice…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 