We’ve both decided it feels rather strange being back here at Bigland Towers. We weren’t away long – just 4 nights – but the pace of life on the peninsula was very different and I have to say we rather liked it. One of the things we’ve noticed since we’ve been back is the amount of traffic on the roads and numbers of cars clogging the streets. Life feels much more frenetic here. Of course, it’s not all bad. I can walk to the local supermarket (and my local pub). Plus, we have superfast broadband rather than steam-powered internet, but there was something special about having so many beaches close to hand. Coastal views give you a very different perspective and feel compared to being landlocked.
That said, we’ve made the most of a day which has proved to be sunny and mild. I’ve managed to catch up on some work and plans for the week (thank you superfast broadband!), we’ve picked up shopping to make some excellent meals – and we’ve dropped off supplies to Dee’s parents. Now it’s time to relax with a movie and enjoy a meal of spicy prawns with chorizo and garlic bread.
I’ll leave you with today’s picture which was taken on the Afon estuary outside Portmeirion when the tide had turned. Much as I like this neck of the woods you don’t get this in the Pennines.
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Our time in Wales ran out today, which was sad as we’d both really enjoyed the area we’d stayed in – and the AirBnB we’d occupied. The weather picked up somewhat too, so we were in no rush to head off, instead we revisted Abersoch during the day when businesses were open. Well, the ones that hadn’t closed down due to the end of the season anyway! This neck of the woods has tourism all year round but it’s plain that the beaches are a big draw so high summer sees the place rammed whilst this time of year many places are winding down. It reminds me of the Greek Islands in that respect. Only with more sheep. And rain.
One place Dawn wanted to stop at was a pretty little hamlet we’d passed through previously. Nestling at the bottom of a valley, Llangian is less than 2 miles from Abersoch. There’s little to the place, although unlike some it still boasts a shop. Oh, and an award – for being a well-kept village! I’ve no idea when this accolade was awarded, apart from the fact Caernarvonshire was abolished on 1974…
I do like exploring country churches as you never know what you’re going to find. In this case it was a memorial to a local man (well, youth really) from a well to do local family who was killed in action during the Crimean war in 1855.
Much as we’d liked to have explored further it was time to head home. We didn’t go direct, instead we headed back via Beddgelert. I was half-hoping to get a shot of a train on the Welsh Highland railway but (bizarrely) the railway seems content to keep its timetable a secret. None are displayed on the station and the company’s website does its best to hide details too. It’s quite bizarre. So, as we hadn’t got a clue what was running (or when) we drove back along the A498 to traverse the Nant Gwynant Pass and stunning autumnal scenery just ahead of the rain.
The beauty of the The Nant Gwynant Pass.
We stopped for a bite to eat and perusal of the multitude of outdoor shops in Betwys-y-Coed. The place was busy but not unbearably so, which made a pleasant change. There’s often bargains to be had here. Dawn treated me to an early birthday present in the form of a new daypack from Trespass which was reduced by 50%. I’d been looking for a new one for ages but I’m picky as one has to meet my needs. The fact it did – and was a bargain was a real result! (thank you Dee x)
Betwys was our last stop. From there we cut across country Northwards to reach the A55 near Conwy, then sped home. Ish. Being ‘poets’ day the main roads were packed – which was a shock after the empty tarmac we’d enjoyed around the Llŷn peninsula. By the time we hit the English motorways the traffic was a real pain as we hit jam after jam on the M58, M6 and M62 which added 30 mins to our journey time. Still, we’re home, dry and safe – and tomorrow’s another day – although I suspect it will involves a lot of picture editing and writing as next week will see me back on the rails before an interesting weekend away in the Lakes…
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There’s a short blog from me today for a number of reasons – not least the fact the wifi where we’re staying is extremely slow tonight. That’s the problem with being out in the sticks. Forget the idea of superfast cable broadband in the middle of nowhere, you’ll be lucky to be able to watch a whole film without it buffering every few minutes. It would take me days to upload pictures to my website. Still, the scenery’s good and everything else can be done another time.
Today we made the must of the improving weather to visit the unique village of Portmeirion. As folly’s go, this one’s been executed on a grand scale. It’s also a stunning collection of rescued buildings (or part buildings) in an amazing landscape that’s also been the setting for one of the most enduring 1960s TV series. ‘The Prisoner’, starring Patrick McGoohan was filmed here in 1967-68. I was an avid fan so Portmerion always held a fascination for me. I’ve not visited the village since 1978 so it as a real trip down memory lane. Here’s a trio of pictures.
I’ll blog more about today when I have decent wifi. Be seeing you…
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Today’s been one dominated by the weather which has been a complete contrast to the day we arrived here in Wales. We had very heavy rain on and off throughout the night, which made sleeping just under an old barn roof interesting to say the least!
Upon waking we found the area around us was blanketed in low cloud and fog, so there there was little point in rushing out to sight-see. Instead we had a leisurely morning at ‘home’, giving me chance to catch up on some work emails and Dawn to relax.
Eventually we ventured out to head over to Pwllheli our first stop of the day. Whilst it’s the biggest town on the peninsula and the railhead for the area, it’s hardly the most attractive town. Admittedly it has some interesting buildings but the place has a shabby air redolent of so many faded seaside towns, especially at the end of the season. That wasn’t helped by the fact it was blanketed in fog! We stayed long enough to pick up some fresh hake from the excellent Llyn seafoods and for me to visit the station to see how busy the incoming train from Birmingham was, then it was time to head off to explore further.
The crew of 158830 exchange banter having arrived with 2J07, the 0808 Birmingham International to Pwllheli.
The weather cleared as we headed East, the sun almost managed to break through at one point en-route, but that didn’t last. However, we did manage to beat the same train on its return, which allowed me to get this shot of it leaving Portmadog.
Hello again! 158830 leaves Porthmadog as 2I24, the 1338 Pwllheli to Birmingham International. It will join another set from Aberystwyth at Machynlleth, working forward as a -4-car to Brum.
Porthmadog is a far nicer and more interesting town for a whole host of reasons. There’s much more going on thanks to the two narrow gauge railways which are a huge tourist draw. There’s a far better selection of shops too, including many small businesses. The air is more bohemian and arty and less traditionally touristy. Plus, there’s also the excellent Moose Head brewery, brewery tap and next door shop.
Needless to say, we couldn’t resist calling in to see activity at the Ffestiniog railway station where two of the line’s steam engines were present.
‘Linda’ waits in the sidings with the stock of the ‘Quarryman’ train to Blaenau Ffestiniog whilst ‘Palmerston’ shunts a train of coal wagons.
Sadly the rain arrived not long after we did so we decided not to hand around but risk our luck by heading into Snowdonia to visit Beddgelert. It was a lovely drive due to the changing seasons and colours that have appeared in the trees along the route. Plus, the Afon Glaslyn river which the road follows made a fine, swirling sight due to the heavy rains.
Beddgelert was quiet but still an enjoyable diversion despite the rain. The low clouds meant we played hide and seek when it came to views of the surrounding hills whilst fog on the river added to the climactic effects.
Whatever the weather (and there’s normally no shortage of rain in Snowdonia) the place is always worth a visit.
With the day rolling on and the weather determined to rain on our parade we made our way back West with one last stop. We had a wander around Cricceith, yet another Welsh town blessed with a castle – although I know that’s not how the Welsh saw them at the time! We didn’t stay long as the fog was really rolling in, it was atmospheric but rather wet! I’d love to see it like this at dawn with the colours of the new day illuminating the mist.
Now we’re back at home, toasting in front of the fire. The forecast for tomorrow is vastly improved and we have plans for further explorations. Let’s see…
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We’re back at our Welsh retreat after a relaxed morning and enjoyable day exploring the peninsula.
We’re staying near to Nefyn on the North side of the peninsula so it made sense to check out the coast by Morfa Nefyn. This possesses a narrow outcrop of rock jutting into the Irish Sea which contains some interesting archeology, a profusion of wildlife, fantastic coastal views – and a pub (the Tŷ Coch Inn) which is a rare beast. You can’t drive there. You can only visit on foot or by boat.
Having left the car on the beach road (the parking restrictions are much easier this time of year) we walked along the sand and pebnles getting broader with an ebbing tide. The weather even blessed us with unexpected sunshine. On reaching Porthdinllaen we decided to delay a pub visit in order to make the most of the weather and complete a coastal circuit first. The views were glorious. Sadly, there were no sightings of Dolphins or Seals, just Oystercatchers – and this.
Poor Dawn got horribly confused when we arrived back at the pub as she hadn’t studied the map and realised our route traversed a long teardrop of land that was only a few hundred yards long!
The pub’s a bit of a gem. This time of year it’s cosy but not too crowded. The weather’s mild enough to use the large outside seating area to watch over the beach and the antics of the many canines being taken for a walk. Dogs love beaches. There’s so many interesting things to sniff or dead things to roll in!
Moving on we decided to head to Aberdaron which was a 30 minute drive on very quiet roads – although I expect they’re anything but in the height of the tourist season!
Aberdaron’s a curious place. It’s a gorgeous location, with a wide beach surrounded by cliffs, but the village feels like it’s seen better times. A number of shops had closed down – and I’m not sure it was just because the season’s over. St Hywyn’s church on the foreshore’s a fascinating but melancholic place too.
There’s a large graveyard scraped out of the hillside that bears testament to the power of the sea and fragility of humankind. Here’s an example.
Over 100 sailors lost their lives when HMS Stephen Furness was torpedoed and sank before the ships lifeboats could be launched. This poor soul was never identified.
On the bright side, next door is Tŷ Newydd, a large hotel and bar with a huge verandah overlooking the beach. The staff were very friendly, the local ale in excellent condition and the views sublime. We really enjoyed out visit and would certainly return in the future. Now it’s time to call it a day and curl up in front of the log fire in the cottage. The wifi is as fast as a tortoise tonight, so most of this blog’s been typed on my phone.
The weather’s predicted to be wet tomorrow. How wet we won’t know until it arrives, but it won’t stop us exploring the area further.
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The pair of us have abandoned Bigland Towers for a few days and decamped to Wales for a break. We’re staying on the Llŷn peninsula, the bit of Wales that sticks out of the top, West of the Isle of Anglesey. It’s gorgeous, but I have to admit I’ve not spent much time around here for very many years. The last time I was in this neck of the woods of back in 2016. Dawn doesn’t know it at all, so this was chance to put that right.
The journey over from West Yorkshire took just over three hours by road, although we added to that by stopping off at Abergele for a break and the chance for me to get a picture or two as today’s weather has been superb. Sadly, the forecast suggests it’s all downhill from here – so we made the most of it.
See what I mean about the weather? One of Transport for Wales new CAF built class 197s passes Abergele and Pensarn with a service from Manchester.
We’re staying in an AirBnB in the middle of nowhere where you really wouldn’t try walking to the nearest pub (it’s *only* a 30 minute walk, down narrow single-track roads with no street-lighting). Not that it’s problem as that’s not why we’re here. We’re here to explore the coasts and byways and enjoy the great outdoors. Here’s a few pictures from today’s explorations.
Don’t tell George Monbiot but we’ve stoked up the wood burner and settled in for a cosy night at our new home.The bedroom. All I have to do is remember to duck when nipping to the loo! Our hosts greeted us with this very thoughtful welcome pack.The view from the back garden of our accommodation. Looking East along the coast from Morfa Nefyn. We’ll be spending more time exploring this area tomorrow. Beautiful, isn’t it?
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Yet another day where my timetable’s gone out of the window and I find myself having to rejig things. My original plan was to move on from Cardiff straight away today but cancellations and a 2 hour late arrival mean I’ve unfinished business, so it’s another earlier than planned start, with some stuff being cut from my schedule to fit in the key trips. Note to self – stop arranging trips on lines that only have a two-hourly frequency!
Right, it’s time to pack, make my way to Cardiif Central and head off up the valleys (again). See you soon…
09:10.
I teyraced yesterday’s steps to stop off at Taffs Well. It’s changed a bit since my last visit. It’s gained a new depot full of tram-trains for a start!
The Class 150s soldier on. For now…
16:00.
I’m back – having moved a faor few miles since this morning! Having detoured up the Valleys once more I returned to Cardiff and (after a photo session) caught a train to Bristol Temple Meads. I have to say that – despite its history and heritage, it’s my least favorite city gateway station. The facilities are primitive and in short supply. York has a cracking bar, shops and cafes. Temple Meads has a pasty shop in the subway, a couple of WH Smiths, a pair of expensive cafe/shops – and that’s about it. It’s not a destination station, or somewhere you hang around, you get out as quickly as you can. Yes, I know the long restoration of the roof doesn’t help, but even where that’s finished there’s nothing to drag you there for – other than to catch a train. The only hope I can see is the new entrance into the development that’s taking place on the old Royal Mail site next door.
Moving on I cut right across country down to Weymouth on a GWR byway via Trowbridge, Westbury, Castle Cary and Yeovil. This is the first time I’ve done the line during a Rover. Now I’ve just left Bournemouth on my way to London.
23:30.
Time to call it a day. It’s certainly been an adventure – especially due to the torrentisl rain I faced when I got closer to London. More details tomorrow.
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There was no blog from me yesterday as we were too busy recovering from Monday’s Community Rail Awards and travelling back home from Swansea. Ourselves, the rest of the CRN team and the 440 people attending the event enjoyed a great night with some richly deserved awards presented, followed by fun in the main hall where a band kept people entertained (and dancing) until late in the evening, followed by a mixture of staff and attendees adjourning to our hotel bar until the small hours.
However, my job wasn’t over as I spent most of the train trip back slaving over a hot laptop, editing the pictures in order to get them ready for circulation and out to the winners themselves. Today’s been spent catching up with other work and clearing the decks as tomorrow Dawn and I are taking a break for a few days. We’re heading off to the Whitby area of North Yorkshire to recharge our batteries and enjoy coastal walks, good food and the odd real ale. There may even be time for the occasional bit of blogging…
In the meantime, here’s today’s picture, which is from Swansea.
The beach and breakwater at Swansea with Port Talbot steelworks in the background. It’s hard to imagine, but at one time, millions of tonnes of Welsh coal in hundreds of ships of all sizes was shipped from this harbour every year. Huge quantities of Tinplate were shipped in the Edwardian era whilst millions of tonnes of oil from refineries at Llandarcy and Baglan Bay left here right up until the 1990s. Now the harbour sees mostly leisure traffic. The steelworks at Port Talbot is also being reduced in size and importance.
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The wet and dismal day that greeted us when we woke up this morning has morphed into something far more pleasant as blue skies and sunshine have appeared to brighten the day. We’ve been up early and breakfasted as the CRN team will be off to the venue shortly, preparing for tonight’s event. It promises to be a brilliant evening. The Community Rail Awards don’t have the pomp or stuffiness of some ceremonies, they’re much more relaxed. I’ve been roped in to help with some of the prep so I’ll be heading over to the arena for a couple of hours too. Obviously I’m not going to be blogging and spilling the beans about what people can expect, but later on I’ll have chance to have a wander around Swansea to get a few pictures and check out the Maritime museum and marina. Expect some thoughts and pictures later, and then some of this evening’s highlights…
16:30.
Today’s not exactly gone to plan blogging wise as I’ve been roped into several different things and haven’t had time to blog. However, I did get time off to visit the Maritime museum – which is about much more than just the sea.
From old motorcycles to a solar car that travelled from Athens to Lisbon…The maritime collectionOld steam power…
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We’ve been up since 07:00, not a time we’d normally expect to be supping coffee on a Sunday, but today we’re heading to Swansea for tomorrow’s Community Rail Awards. This could be an interesting trip. First we head to Manchester to meet up with other members of the CRA team, then we catch a Transport for Wales service all the way to Cardiff, which takes 5 hours. That could be the first ‘fun’ bit as (having checked) I can see that it’s worked by a two-car class 197, so it could get cosy! It being Sunday, the line from Cardiff to Swansea is closed for engineering work to take place, so it’s the dreaded ‘bustitution’ for the rest of the way. Just what you need when you’re carrying all the kit you need for an awards ceremony and a couple of nights away!
Feel free to pop back later and see how the journey unfolds….
10:00.
We’re on our way on our first train of the day – Northern’s 09:50 from Halifax to Manchester Victoria. As it’s early on a Sunday and it’s a four-car there’s no problem in finding a seat.
10:30.
We’ve left the wet weather behind by crossing the Pennines into Gtr Manchester. Whilst our train filled up after calling at Rochdale the journey’s still relaxed. Next stop is Victoria…
10:45.
Ha! I should’ve known better. We’re in Manchester, so of course it’s raining! Not that it natters as we’ve just joined a packed TPE service bound for the airport which will deliver us to Piccadilly.
11:40.
Half A dozen of the team have met at Piccadilly and joined TfW’s 11:29 to Cardiff. Thankfully, it’s one of the new CAF built Class 197s and we’ve managed to secure a couple of tables behind the cab despite the usual scramble for seats. Now the tables are awash with laptops and mobile phones as folk make final preparations for the awards and a few days away.
13:40.
We’ve had a surprisingly good journey so far. At one point we were losing time to Shrewsbury but now we’ve mad that up on the approach to Hereford. The biggest surprise has been the amount of flooded fields around Moreton-On-Lugg. It’s horrendous. Fields have become vast lakes and some roads look like they’re impassible unless you have a 4X4. I really feel for the farmers as the rivers draining the area clearly can’t cope, so planting anything is impossible.
17:00
Made it! All in all, that’s been a very good journey. We were into Cardiff on time and the dreaded ‘bustitution’ worked like a dream. We were off the train and after a toilet stop we were straight onto a coach for the rest of the trip to Swansea. The group’s now checked in at our hotel on the Tawe Basin, right by the Swansea seafront. A short walk away is the National Waterfront Museum (which I’m hoping to have time to check out in the morning) and the venue for tomorrow’s awards (Swansea Arenea) is 5 minutes walk away.
19:01.
Time for the team to dine – at…
Zinco Lounge
22:30.
Well, that was a great (if different) night, but one that had to end early as some of us have to be on duty tomorrow. After the meal where we were joined by old friends such as Richard Salkeld – ex LNER and now ‘Lumo’ – when the wit and laughter was flowing, a few of us met up with other community rail colleagues and ‘newbies’ such as train driver Bessie Matthews, who’s written the Arlo adventures books at a Gin bar called Hogarth’s. Now, you wouldn’t normally find me dead in a karaoke joint, but as I was with friends it turned into an interesting exercise in people watching and insight into Swansea on a Sunday. After all, the Welsh have a reputation for singing, don’t they? True enough. The place was mostly men, and some actually knew how to sing – as did one of our own group – Karen Bennett – who bashed out a great rendition of a Bonny Tyler number whilst getting support from the audience!
Now it’s time to call it a day. I’m looking to seeing more of Swansea in the morning…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 