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Paul Bigland

Category Archives: Rolling blogs

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 19. Franz Josef glacier to Wanaka.

17 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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08:30

We’ve lucked out with the weather again. After an entertaining morning having breakfast at the backpackers and people-watching (more of which later) we’re packing the car in the rain.

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Low cloud surrounds the mountains at the moment and the forecast isn’t great – so we’re just going to have to play it by ear today. Our plan was to walk to the base of the glacier (well, as close to the base as you’re allowed nowadays) before heading off towards Fox glacier and some of the lakes. We’ll have to see..

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Here’s how the glacier looked yesterday…

11:56

Our luck held! The shower passed so by the time we got out to walk to the base of the glacier the clouds had cleared and the glacier was bathed in sunshine. As we walked up the path to get to the base if the glacier I was shocked by how much it had retreated since I heli-hiked on it in 1999. Here’s a rather sobering example. This selfie with the glacier in the background? In 1999 we’d have been buried at least 50m BELOW the glacier that you can now see high up the mountain behind us.

Here’s another view from yesterday. On my last visit the glacier extended as far as the rubble wall across the bottom of the valley.

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Here’s how it looked on my last visit in February, 1999. To give you an impression of scale, you can see a group of people stood on the glacier on the top right of this picture.

t8966. franz joseph glacier base and climbers. new zaealand 1999.crop

So, next time some idiot tells you that Man-made climate change is a fiction and the earth’s cooling really, kick ’em where it hurts. This is the reality of what we’re doing to our planet…

Rolling blog: New Zealand. Day 18. The Tranzalpine to Greymouth & onward to Franz Josef glacier.

16 Wednesday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Railways, Rolling blogs, Travel

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08:05.

We’re aboard the Tranzalpine train, ready for the 08:15 off and one of the great railway journeys off the world. The train’s swankier than the last time I did the trip in 1999. There’s plug sockets and headphones nowadays, but one thing missing is the delicious West Coast Whitebait you used to be able to buy on the train. That said, there’s two modern buffet cars and observation coaches. This trains essentially two coupled together. I’ll post pictures when I can, but here’s a taster – the interior of our coach (F).

14:50.

We’re now in Greymouth after a superb trip. I’ll blog about it in detail later as there’s lots to mention, but right now I’ll leave you with these pictures. The first’s from the train as we climbed up to Arthur’s Pass.

dg316580. 5229. 5402. tranzalpine. east of arthur's pass. new zealand. 17.1.19crop

This one is as we head towards Greymouth.

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Here’s a couple of the stunning scenery you see from the train.

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21:18.

It’s been a great day. After picking up our hire car in Greymouth we drove down the West Coast as far as Franz Josef glacier. I’ve not been here for 30 years, so I was shocked to see how much the glacier has retreated. We don’t have broadband with enough oomph to upload the pictures I’ve taken today, so I’ll add them to this blog as soon as possible. One irony was realising that the backpackers that we’re staying in is the same one as last time I was here. At least some things don’t change – although in those days you didn’t get young girls travelling sporting bags of make-up, false eyelashes and a ‘trout pout’!

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 17. Mt Lydon to Christchurch.

14 Monday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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09:00

We’re on the move again today after two lovely nights staying up in the hills near Mt Lydon at this gorgeous Airbnb owned by Stephanie, who’s shared this wonderful space with us.

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Now we’re beginning the trip down to Christchurch, stopping off on the way, so expect some blogging and pictures later…

11:50

We’re talking a break in Cheviot, a small town on highway one after driving across some pretty rugged countryside to get here. There’s not much here apart from a few shops and cafe’s – although it does have a library and school. The place seems to make it’s living as a pit stop for travellers heading to/from Christchurch.

21:55

We’re now hunkered down in our new Airbnb in Christchurch, where we’ll be staying for the next couple of nights. It’s comfortable (and suburban, only 20 mins walk from the city centre) but it’s certainly not as amazing as where we’ve just come from. That said, Christchurch itself is a bit of an eye-opener. I’ve never ever been to a city where 80% of the city centre has been flattened by earthquakes before. I was here 20 years ago but there’s nothing I recognise apart from the shattered remains of the cathedral. Oh – and the trams. It’s a very sobering experience, looking around at all the new buildings, the few old ones that have been rebuilt, and others that are awaiting their turn. Then there’s all the open spaces that used to be buildings but are now parks – or car parks. Christchurch was hit twice, in September 2010 and again in February 2011, the latter earthquake killed a total of 185 people, which seems miraculous when you consider the scenes of destruction.

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Tram 1888 passes all the new buildings on Oxford Terrace, with the Avon river to the right. 

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The driver of tram 178 changes the points behind him as the vehicle prepares to head for the tramshed at the end of the day. The tramway runs through the ‘Cathedral Junction’ shopping centre.

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The remains of Christchurch cathedral, with the base of the spire in the foreground.

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 15. Blenheim to Kaikoura.

12 Saturday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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We’re moving on again today after four nights in Blenheim, which we’ve both thoroughly enjoyed. It’s been a great place to be based at and the Airbnb we’ve stayed in has been wonderful. So much so that Dawn decided to leave them a little message on the bed!

In truth, we’re both a little sad to be leaving but there’s a heck of a lot more to see and do.

Weatherwise, it’s another stunning day, so we’re looking forward to exploring the coastline from here. It’s only an hour and a half drive to Kaikoura, which means we’ll be taking our time and stopping several times on the way and hoping to do some seal watching and dolphin/whale spotting.

One thing we’re both enjoying here is the fish and seafood. As we’re on the move we’ve been clearing out our fridge and eating what’s left, so this is hardly traditional. That said, it’s delicious – the mussels out here are amazing…

17:56.

What a fab day. The trip along highway 1 was brilliant and Dawn was a star for doing all the driving. We’ve had some excellent weather and  seen some amazing sights. I’ve not done this trip for 20 years. Doing it by car rather than train gave us the flexibility to stop off where we wanted. Oh, that and the fact no trains run on a Sunday, which was a bit of a bugger as the photo opportunities would have been wonderful – as you can see from this picture.

dg316139. heading down highway 1 from blenheim to kaikoura. new zealand. 13.1.19crop

For much of the way the railway and road play ‘tig’ as both hug the coast due to the mountainous nature of the terrain. Unlike the UK, there’s no ugly fencing separating the two. Near Kaikoura is a place called Ohau. It’s famous for the fact seals and their pups bask on the rocks right next to the road. What’s changed is the area was devastated by the 2016 earthquake

dg316170. seals basking in the suns. ohau. new zealand. 13.1.19crop

When I say devastated, I mean it. Both the road and the railway were out of action for a long time, in the case of the railway that was two years. Here’s a Guardian report on the reopening. The line may be back in service but there’s still a huge amount of work going on to protect both road and rail from landslips – as these pictures from today illustrate.

dg316195. repairing earthquake damage. ohau. new zealand. 13.1.19crop

dg316187. new railway retaining wall. ohau. new zealand. 13.1.19crop

A little bit closer to Kaikoura we couldn’t resist stopping at an old institution. Nins Bin has been serving seafood from a lay-by since 1977. Despite the cost (thank you Brexit fans, you’ve trashed the value of the pound & made life sooo much more expensive for us Brits who venture outside of the UK) these locally caught crayfish have got to be tried…

dg316197. crayfish from nin's bin. kaikoura. new zealand. 13.1.19crop

It’s actually rather strange being back in Kaikoura after 20 years (for reasons I may go into in another blog), but we didn’t stay long as we’re actually staying some 50km away up in the hills at a fabulous Airbnb at Mt Lydford. That said – we’ll be back in Kaikoura in the hope to go swimming with dolphins in the morning. The only problem is that the weather forecast isn’t looking great…

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 13. Wine tasting in Marlborough.

10 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in Food and drink, New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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Food and drink, New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

Today, we will mostly be drinking wine! We’ve joined the ‘Bubbly Grape’ wine tasting tour where a minibus is taking us around lots of vineyards in the Marlborough region.  The tour was really good fun. There was only 6 of us so it was rather intimate instead of being part of a large anonymous group. In all we visited 6 cellar doors, starting with the Brancott estate, which kicked off the Marlborough wine boom way back in 1973. You’ll have also seen their wines marketed under their original name of Montana. Without doubt, their cellar door has the best location we visited as it sits on a ridge overlooking the vineyards, giving views for miles. Here’s a couple of pictures.

dg316028. brancott estate vineyards. blenheim. new zealand. 11.1.19cropdg316022. brancott estate vineyards. blenheim. new zealand. 11.1.19crop

The Brancott staff were very knowledgeable and we were also treated to a short video which explained about the various regions that make up the Marlborough area. I have to say, they’re not my favourite wines, but we did get to try a variety, from Sauvignons to Pinot Noirs. They’re certainly worth a visit.

Our second stop was at Villa Maria who produce wines both Dawn and I love. When we booked for the tour we’d been asked if their were specific vineyards we wanted to visit and this was one of our choices. Villa Maria produce a wide variety of wines that they don’t sell on the UK market which is a real shame as they’ve got some stunners. They’ve also won a heap of awards for them. Here’s their cellar door.

dg316033. villa maria wine shop. blenheim. new zealand. 11.1.19crop

Once again, the staff were incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. We tried a wide selection of wines, including an excellent rose and dessert wine. These might not be to everyone’s tastes, but trying new ones is half the fun of these events. Several of us were so impressed that we ended up buying different bottles. Villa Maria were unusual in that many of their wines are branded specific to the vineyard the grapes come from, whilst many others use a blend. Here’s a list of the wines on offer and the awards won – as well as prices.

villamaria

The next place we visited was also on our list: Cloudy Bay. When we arrived we could see that it was rather different from the others. It was very upmarket – if not a little swanky. The wines were very good but they do charge a premium price for them. It was only when we were leaving that we found out why. Cloudy Bay is owned by Louis Vuitton!

The third cellar door we visited couldn’t have been more different. It was a locally owned family winemaker called Allan Scott who produces some very good wines. Here we are at their cellar door.

dg316044. allan scott wine shop. blenheim. new zealand. 11.1.19crop

We also broke for lunch here as they have a lovely outdoor restaurant that serves some excellent fish dishes. I chose these gorgeous clams.

clams

After lunch we moved on to another locally owned and family run vineyard: Forrest (who also market their wine under ‘The Doctors’ label – as the couple who set up the vineyard were both doctors)! Here’s what we tried and the range of prices, complete with tasting notes.

forrest

Next (and last) on the list was Giesen, a vineyard run by three German bothers. The German influence on the wines was quite noticeable, many of us fond them too sweet, but they were certainly worth trying just as a contrast. They also had something unique – which several of us really enjoyed: “Pomme de Gris” – a mixture of white wine and cider! It really worked as a long, refreshing drink…

cider

All in all it was a great day out. You get to try a real variety of wines from brands you may never of heard of before. You learn a lot about Marlborough (and Hawke’s Bay) wines and eat some lovely food. There’s even a stop at a chocolate producers at the end of the trip! Needless to say, we couldn’t resist buying something to quaff over the next few days…

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A Favour to ask
If you enjoy reading these blogs, please consider clicking on an advert – or two! You don’t have to buy anything, honest! The clicks just help me cover the cost of running this blog. Many thanks, Paul

 

 

 

Rolling blog. New Zealand day 12: Exploring Blenheim and Nelson.

09 Wednesday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Photography, Rolling blogs, Travel

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We had an easy day yesterday after getting the ferry over to the South Island. We picked up our car in Picton for the half-hour trip to Blenheim, where we’re staying in an AirBnB for four nights. Not that we used the car much. We left it at our accommodation and walked into Blenheim instead. Mind you, I could get used to having this view each morning – we have vineyards across the road from us!

13:29

We’re currently having lunch in Nelson, having driven here via Havelock. It’s quite a spectacular road as it climbs and hairpins its way through the hills to reach the coast. Nelson’s a lot bigger than I imagined. The place has a relaxed feel to it, with the small square below the church a lovely oasis of brew pubs and cafes.

dg315959. dining alfresco. nelson. new zealand. 10.1.19crop

 

As the old saying goes, if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em! We stayed for lunch and a drink in the square and watched the world go by whilst enjoying a huge portion of calamari! The bar we sat outside was an old building that was converted to a pub – and a very good job they’d done of it too…

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I’ve been surprised at how many preserved railways there are in New Zealand, although most of them are small-scale efforts like this one in Nelson. It’s part of a local museum and has a short running line on the site of the original railway which closed in 1952. It only runs at weekends, but here’s the line and station at Nelson.

dg315973. grove station. nelson. new zealand. 10.1.19crop

 

Nelson’s a lovely little place with a great atmosphere. It’s used as a base by many tourists who go on to explore some of the national parks in the area. We popped down to one – the Nelson Lakes national park and beautiful Lake Rotoiti.

dg315993. lake rotoiti. nelson lakes national park. new zealand. 10.1.19crop

dg315994. lake rotoiti. nelson lakes national park. new zealand. 10.1.19crop

We drove back along highway 63, following a river valley whose name is associated with the wine industry: Wairau. Wairau Cove is on of our favourite New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc’s back in the UK, so it’s quite a kick to be here!

dg315998. route 63 through the wairau valley. new zealand. 10.1.19crop

Tomorrow we’ll be doing a vineyard tour, so export more wine-related blogging…

 

A Favour to ask

If you enjoy reading these blogs, please consider clicking on an advert – or two! You don’t have to buy anything, honest! The clicks just help me cover the cost of running this blog. Many thanks, Paul

 

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 11. Wellington to Blenheim, South Island.

08 Tuesday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Transport, Travel

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After a very sociable few days (but far too short a time) we’re on the move again. Today we catch the Interislander ferry to Picton on the top of the South Island, so watch this space…

10:29

We’re currently in the aquatic no-man’s land between North and South islands, aboard the Dutch built ferry “Kaitaki”. The weather’s absolutely stunning, with clear blue skies and the only cloud in evidence clinging to the mountainous slopes of the North Island. Needless to say I’ve been busy with the camera.

Enter a caption

After a very sociable few days (but far too short a time) we’re on the move again. Today we catch the Interislander ferry to Picton on the top of the South Island, so watch this space…

10:29

We’re currently in the aquatic no-man’s land between North and South islands, aboard the Dutch built ferry “Kaitaki”. The weather’s absolutely stunning, with clear blue skies and the only cloud in evidence clinging to the mountainous slopes of the North Island. Needless to say I’ve been busy with the camera.

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Passing the bottom of the North Island

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Sailing up Marlborough Sound

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The view from the stern of the ferry as we sail up Marlborough sound towards Picton.

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Our ferry does a U-turn at Picton to reverse into its berth. 

14:05.

Having picked up our hire car we’re having a lazy lunch at “cockles”, a lovely seafood bistro on the railway station at Picton. Here’s their prawns (which were delicious).

The mussel and cockle patty’s were pretty damned good too!

Not surprisingly, this is a good place to watch trains. We’re sat within 10 feet of the Afternoon departure from Picton to Christchurch.

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 10. More Wellington wanderings…

07 Monday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Travel

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The weather’s picked up here in Wellington and the heavy cloud we had yesterday has deferred to its fluffier, more broken cousins. Today’s going to be rather sociable as 10 of us are meeting up for a meal this evening. We’ve a couple of friends from the UK (Merv and Alexa) who’re travelling in the opposite direction to us (South Island to North) and they pitch up in Wellington this afternoon, along with Alexa’s daughter. Meanwhile, another old friend of Dawn’s is coming along with her family, so we’re going to be mob handed for our last night in Wellington as tomorrow we catch the ferry to Picton on to the South Island.

12:36.

We’ve spent a fascinating hour or so in the Te Anu museum, learning about how the Maori spread across the Pacific and made their way to New Zealand all those centuries ago. Talk about prodigious feats of navigation!

Now we’re soaking up the sun and enjoying a spot of calmari for lunch on the harbour front.

As expected yesterday turned into a very convivial day. Here’s the group at the end of it.

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Rolling blog: New Zealand day 9. Wellington wanderings…

06 Sunday Jan 2019

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We’ve had a slow start to the day due to the fact it’s been raining in Wellington this morning, so we’ve used it as an excuse to catch up on some chores and take advantage of access to a washing machine, enabling us to get all our dirty washing done before hitting the South Island. A leisurely morning’s also allowed me to get some more New Zealand pictures onto my Zenfolio website. You can find them here.

Chores done, we’re about to walk into town and explore. I’ve not been here for 20 years, so I’m looking forward to rediscovering the place…

19:15

Well, we’ve kept up the slow theme to today! We’re staying in the Aro valley, a lovely little area that nestles in the hills to the South-East of the city. It’s one of the oldest settlements and possesses a quirky mix of wooden homes spread out across the narrow valley sides. There’s a small centre which has a mix of bohemian cafe’s and eccentric shops. The only downside is the cost of property here (a problem across much of New Zealand apparently). Here’s the view from our friend’s house, looking down the valley.

Here’s some typical properties from the area. Although, admittedly, not all are this well kept!

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It took us the best part of half an hour to walk down to the harbour and CBD (Central Business District). We were full of good intentions for all the things we were going to do, but most of our time was spent watching the world go by. The weather remained overcast so we flagged getting the cable car up to the Botanic Gardens and relaxed instead. It was very much a ‘sitting on the dock of the bay’ afternoon.

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Meanwhile, seen from the dock of the bay, an Interisland ferry pulls out of Wellington harbour…

Not that it’s all ships nowadays, the world’s moved on. Once upon a time this area would have been teeming with steamships, now part of it is a base for helicopter tours at $120 pp per pop.

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Helen managed to get out of work early to meet us and acted as our guide through parts of the city we’d have otherwise missed, such as Cuba St, another laid-back area full of cafe’s and restaurants that we’ll be visiting again tomorrow. On our way back we called at this little gem in the Aro valley. It’s a former garage which is now a brewery (link).

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Once upon a time this would have been full of cars up on jacks

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Try before you buy – then purchase a takeaway or pop over to their bar across the road.

 

Rolling blog: New Zealand day 8. Napier to Wellington.

05 Saturday Jan 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in Architecture, New Zealand, Rolling blogs, Transport, Travel

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After a very pleasant 24 hours exploring the Art Deco delights of Napier we’re on the move again. This time we’re taking the Intercity bus all the way to Wellington, our final North Island stop on this part of the trip. It’s a long-haul on a sold-out double-deck coach. That takes almost 6 hours. We’d have liked to have seen more of Napier and the adjacent town of Hastings (which also has some lovely buildings) but when you’ve only got a month…

Anyway, here’s a few shots from Napier.

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dg315603. art deco arctitecture. napier. new zealand. 6.1.19rop

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The town has a lovely, laid back atmosphere which makes it a very pleasant place to while away a few hours, admiring the buildings, or just sitting outside one of the many cafes to watch the world go by. In February Napier hosts an Art Deco festival, which sounds delightful. With all the palm trees and wall to wall sunshine, the place reminds me more of California than Cleethorpes! The shops are more upmarket too. Dawn was impressed with the quality of the clothes shops and I noticed the organic grocery stores and music shops – not to mention the business dedicated to Art Deco memorabilia. The theme pervades to the town, but not in a tacky, commercial way, more in a celebration of the design. This manifests itself in carefully designed shop signs, or even displays of old wireless in some of the bars. Talking of bars, that’s one thing that’s missing – a proper brew pub! Instead, the town suffers the curse of the ‘plastic Paddy’Irish theme bar – although one of the main ones has closed down – leaving a site ripe for development in the way I’ve mentioned.

15:52.

We’re well on the way to Palmerston North now, having passed through a series of small Kiwi towns en-route. As before, they feel more American than English, mostly because they’re resolutely low rise and many of the smaller building are constructed from timber. The scenery’s another matter. This is Scotland in all but name.

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17:01

We’ve just had a half-hour break in Palmerston North, which would’ve been lovely if it wasn’t for the fact that it’s Sunday, so the place is closed! It’s a large town too, but the centre of town around the bus station’s deserted. We managed to find one cafe nearby for a quick drink and a loo stop, but it was all a bit rushed. Whilst we were sitting there I spotted this sign in the window, which was slightly disconcerting.

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Heading on from Palmerston we followed highway 1 down the coast to Wellington. It was a lovely drive as the road hugs the coast before weaving & winding its way through the hills that surround Wellington. I’d forgotten just how rugged the landscape is around the city. The roads were remarkably quiet, despite it being the end of the summer holiday for many people.

On arrival at Wellington we were met by an old friend of Dawn’s. Although originally from Yorkshire, Helen has lived over here for many years.  The three of us had a lovely evening at Helen’s home, chatting whilst sharing  Shepherds pie over a glass of wine. The two hadn’t seen each other for 25 years, so I left them to do some catching up and retreated to do a spot of picture editing, so here’s another selection of shots from Napier.

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Napier’s main beach is dark shingle and the power of the sea makes it unsuitable for swimming by the inexperienced, but it is beautiful to walk along and watch.

 

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