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Paul Bigland

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Paul Bigland

Tag Archives: India

26th July picture of the day…

26 Sunday Jul 2020

Posted by Paul Bigland in India, Photography, Picture of the day, Travel

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India, Photography, Picture of the day, Travel

Today’s picture was taken in Calcutta, India in March 1992. I was staying in Sudder St, the backpacker area of this vibrant city. Sudder St is a bit of an institution as it’s one of those places that become a crossroads for travellers but it’s not to everyone’s taste as the standards of accommodation as are as run-down as the city itself. Even so, it’s a place that I’ve visited several times and really enjoy. Life is lived out on the streets as there’s little incentive to hang around in dark and dinghy hotel rooms. Instead, many travellers  congregate at the street stalls selling food and drinks, where you can sit, chat and watch the world go by. They’re ideal for photographers like me. One one morning I was sitting outside a pavement stall eating curd and honey when I spotted this scene on the opposite side of the narrow street.

T6754. Bathing Man. Calcutta. India 1992.crop

Whilst his washing dried on the line behind him against a wall covered with election posters for the Congress and Communist parties a man was taking a shower from a bucket on the pavement. As always, I had my camera with me, so I quickly grabbed a shot.

I’ve been back to Calcutta several times since, the last time in 2011 and it’d changed little in the intervening two decades. It was still as run-down and gloriously anarchic as ever, but I still think it’s one of my favourite Indian cities as it has a vibrancy and soul that makes it rather special. If you want to see more pictures from Calcutta over the years (including of their incredibly run-down tram network), follow this link. Calcutta (or Kolkata as it’s been renamed) holds a special title amongst Indian cities in that it retains two forms of transport you won’t find anywhere else on the sub-continent – trams and hand pulled rickshaws.

 

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Too much to do…

28 Sunday Jun 2020

Posted by Paul Bigland in India, Musings, Photography

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India, Musings, Photography

So much for Sunday being the day of rest! Sometimes I envy those people who can sit with their feet up on a Sunday because they’ve nothing to do. Today’s been a mix of DIY, researching articles, scanning pictures, ploughing through emails and dodging showers whilst exercising.

The weather here has couldn’t have been less summer-like. We’ve had heavy rain and gusting winds, which has made walking through our local woods adventurous to say the least! The amount of broken branches and leaf detritus that’s evident makes you nervy to say the least. I felt as twitchy as Corporal Fraser in the opening credits to ‘Dad’s Army’.

Dawn’s been just as busy too as today was the final day of her ‘virtual retreat’ so the living rooms been pretty much out of bounds to me as it was converted into Dee’s gym and yoga centre (amongst other things)…

Another thing I’ve been working on is a long HS2 blog detailing what’s going on with the project right now – which is a huge amount. I’ll try and get it finished tomorrow. In the meantime, I’ll end with…

Picture of the day.

T9675. The Alfred High school. Alma Mater of Gandhi). Rajkot. Gujarat. India. 13.02.2000crop

This is another from the series of pictures from India that I’m swapping between with railway shots from 1995. The picture was taken on the 12th February 2000 in Rajkot, India. The building is the Alfred High School, which was founded on the 17th October 1853 during the days of the British Raj. Why was I interested in taking pictures of the school? Because of an old pupil, who changed the course of history. His name? Mohandas K Gandhi – although most people only know his last name…

 

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If you enjoy reading this blog, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course (although if you did find something that tickled your fancy would be fab!), but the revenue from them helps to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site – and right now (because of Covid), us locked-down freelances need all the help that we can get…
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More stormy weather…

27 Saturday Jun 2020

Posted by Paul Bigland in India, Musings, Photography

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India, Musings, Photography

We’ve had a fun day here in the Calder valley as the weather really hasn’t known what to do with itself. One minute the valley’s blanketed in murk, then that clears to welcome clear blue skies, then the next apocalyptic cloud front appears to literally darken our door and the heavens open for a few brief minutes before the sun’s cracking the flags again!

If nothing else, it’s been fun to watch. Dawn’s into day 2 of her ‘virtual retreat’ but we did get out for a walk together earlier, kitted out in waterproofs and with brollies to start with, then the sun arrived so we stripped off, then the rain came back! Still, it keeps us fit – and occupied, plus – it’s glorious to watch the skies change as we have a grandstand view. Here’s how the skies over Sowerby Bridge looked like earlier as the next storm blew in.

storm

Whilst Dee’s been busy on her retreat I’ve been keeping myself occupied researching articles and sorting out old images, which brings me on to…

Picture of the day

Here’s another one from India. This one was taken in Rajkot in the state of Gujarat on the 11th February 2000. I’ve always loved Indian street scenes. You just never know what’s going to appear. I often find a strategic location to sit and wait to see what might catch my eye. It doesn’t normally take long for something of interest to happen, especially as Rajkot’s a busy little place with people flocking in from the countryside to bring their produce to market.

T9638. Women sit atop sacks on a motor rickshaw. Rajkot. Gujarat. India. 11.02.2000crop

Here’s a group of women sitting atop their wares as they arrive into town on the back of a three-wheeler which is the front end of a motorcycle with a trailer tacked on the back.  They’re very common in the countryside but you used to see a variant even in New Delhi back in the 80s-90s where a Harley-Davidson was converted into a taxi trike. They were almost always driven by Sikhs and plied specific routes around the capital. They were horribly polluting so they were banned many years ago but out in rural areas these contraptions still exist.

If you want to see the rest of the pictures from India that I’ve added to my website, follow this link, which will take you straight to the India gallery.

 

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If you enjoy reading this blog, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course (although if you did find something that tickled your fancy would be fab!), but the revenue from them helps to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site – and right now (because of Covid), us locked-down freelances need all the help that we can get…
Thank you!

 

 

 

 

Is it too early to miss lockdown?

25 Thursday Jun 2020

Posted by Paul Bigland in Huddersfield, India, Musings, Photography

≈ 1 Comment

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Huddersfield, India, Musings, Photography

I ask as for the past couple of days much of the country has basked in temperatures that have made it the hottest of the year so far but also seem to have an inverse proportion to the levels of stupidity on display. Yes, I know the Government has pretty much killed-off lockdown, but that’s not meant to happen until the 4th July, not the first sunny day since the announcement. This blog may end up as a cathartic rant but I don’t apologise for that. Sometimes you’ve just got to get these things off your chest. And it’s my blog – so I will!

The day started so well, It’s Thursday, so Dawn and I ventured out to Huddersfield on our ‘Red Cross’ mission to go shopping for Dee’s parents. We also picked up stuff for ourselves. Today we had to visit a wholesale fishmongers. As the sun was cracking the flags we didn’t want to leave our purchases in the car to slowly cook so Dawns dad met us with a cool bag to take our purchases straight back to their place whilst we did the rest of the shopping. The staff at Sail were excellent and the whole process was hassle free – until ‘Flash Harry’ turned up in his expensively restored vintage car and ignored every bit of social-distancing etiquette – which started to set the tone for the day. Looking at his age, gammon complexion and physique my first thought was “Well, it’s your funeral”…

Once our fish exchange was done Dee and I headed into town and popped into the CRN offices for the weekly check-up. The weather was too good to keep me inside but the time was too short to do much so I only grabbed one rail picture. Well, at least it’s a contrast to the vintage stuff I’ve been scanning recently!

DG342332crop

195022 and 195020 come out of Huddersfield carriage sidings to head West across the Pennines.

Whilst Dawn did what she needed to do at the office I wandered through the town to see how things had changed since last week. In fact, very little – apart from the weather, which had dragged a few more people out. Not that it had done much for people’s ability to follow simple instructions for the common good…

DG342337copy

It’s OK, I’m wearing a mask, no guidance applies to me…

I won’t bore you with the minutiae of shopping at Sainsbury’s but what was lovely was being able to spend a bit of time with John and Norah in their garden at a respectful distance. The sun was an absolute bonus!

We couldn’t stay long as we both had to get home to catch up on work. I was lucky as a lot of what I needed to do could be done outside so I ended up basking like a lizard whilst researching. Poor Dawn was trapped inside! Whilst I was doing so I made the mistake of catching up on the news and saw the scenes of absolute fcukwittery from the beaches of Bournemouth and beauty spots elsewhere that makes me despair about this country. We’re not even out of lockdown, we’re nowhere near free of Covid-19 but as soon as the sun comes out some people simply don’t care about the consequences to themselves, or others.

Britain is incredibly fortunate. We have probably the richest language on the planet. It’s the language of Shakespeare, Chaucer – and so many others. There are 220,000 words in the Oxford Dictionary, we have the ability to express ourselves in innumerable ways yet so many people can’t even grasp the fundamentals of the language – or if they do, don’t understand they apply to them. Stuff like ‘one way’…’don’t litter’ – the list (seemingly) is endless – and don’t even get me started on those who thought they knew what they were voting for when they voted for Brexit! Try asking some of them four years down the line what it is they think they’ve ‘won’ and watch the brows furrow. It’s the same now with Covid, the relaxation of lockdown – and sunshine.  What bit of all this don’t you understand?  Me and mine will stay safe and we’ll try and ride out the economic consequences that these muppets don’t even think about, much less comprehend. Many (many) years ago, when I was travelling, I hooked up with a Swedish girl. As we spent more time together I noticed that she kept a diary in English. Being curious, I asked her why? Her reply was that she could be so much more descriptive in English due to the breadth of the language compared to her native Swedish. I’ve never forgotten that. Then I see so many people for whom English is their native tongue, yet they struggle to master and make themselves understood in the basics. As for their inability to grasp simple concepts -like ‘one way only’ – I despair.

Ok, rant over, now it’s time for…

Picture of the day

In 2010-11 I took some time off from the UK to travel across Asia. Because of India deciding to kick-off about visas due to recent terrorist incidents it got ‘interesting’ to say the least. When I managed to get back into the country after a sojourn in Thailand and Malaysia I headed over to the Gujarat to explore. On the way back to Baroda from a day trip I ended up in a crowded commuter service. It wasn’t a problem as I wasn’t a stranger to these conditions and I stuck up conversations with those around me. So much so I ended up taking lots of pictures and lent my camera to the chap opposite to take mine. Here it is…

DG77491. Me on crowded train. Gujarat. India. 26.3.11crop

My Gob’s open because I was trying to explain what to do before he pressed the shutter. Ho hum…

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If you enjoy reading this blog, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course (although if you did find something that tickled your fancy would be fab!), but the revenue from them helps to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site – and right now (because of Covid), us locked-down freelances need all the help that we can get…
Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nostalgia (and the weather) isn’t what it used to be…

19 Friday Jun 2020

Posted by Paul Bigland in Arambol, Calder Valley, Goa, India, Musings, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

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Arambol, Calder Valley, Goa, India, Musings

Hardly a vintage day today for a whole host of reasons which I won’t bore you with, but there have been a few small victories – and plenty of losses. It’s now 91 days since I last set foot on a train, which is the longest time I’ve been off the rails (literally, if not metaphorically) for as long as I can remember. The last time may have been sometime in the early 1980s, so at least 35 years, if not more ago. The irony is that right now myself and many other volunteers should have been on day two of a marathon train journey – ‘3 Peaks by Rail’ – the annual fundraiser for the charity The Railway Children’. If you want to know what it’s all about, here’s a gallery of pictures from the 2019 event. It’s a gloriously mad and exhausting event that showcases the true spirit of the railways and the people involved in them. The camaraderie and banter amongst the team is superb and I really miss it. Normally we manage to raise around £250,000 so it’s also time well spent. Here we all are before setting off from Crewe. Well, all but me – obviously, as I’m behind the camera!

DG325281. 3 Peaks by Rail. Crewe. 13.6.19.crop

Instead of taking part in this adventure I’m stuck in the Calder valley, getting rained on, with no prospect of escaping for quite some time. On the bright side. I did finish scanning yet another old slide album today which consisted of travel pictures from 2003 although it was a bitter-sweet victory as it reminded me of just how much I used to travel in those days. Just that one album had pictures from Sri Lanka, Spain and Ireland as well as weekends away from several UK locations, and that was only between January and July! What a far cry from the past 91 days…

It got to the point that I needed to take a break, get some fresh air and some exercise to come back to the present. Despite the fact it was chucking it down I went out for a long walk to take some time to enjoy the here and now away from everything. It was lovely, just having the time to stand and watch the world go by in our local woods listen to the rain and smell the freshness of everything magnified by the downpour whilst gathering my thoughts. No-one else came along to disturb me I had the place to myself. Well, apart from the Robins and the Jays, who seemed oblivious to the weather. Afterwards I walked on up to the promenade above the woods where I had a grandstand view across the valley and beyond to watch the next rainstorm roll in. I was hoping it would be a thunderstorm as I love them, but I wasn’t that lucky. The climactic pyrotechnics, barometric changes and frisson of danger that you get with a good storm fascinate me. They also put you in your place in the grand scheme of things. I hadn’t taken the camera as pictures hadn’t been my intention so this series were taken on my phone.

20200619_130859crop

Inside Scarr woods. Listening to the rain drip through the tree canopy, the birds singing and foraging – but not seeing another soul…

20200619_131931crop

The view from the promenade above the woods looking South towards Norland as the next rainstorm heads our way. I was hoping for a thunderstorm but it wasn’t to be.

20200619_132904crop

Looking over Sowerby Bridge in the valley and Norland up above to the left as the next weather front arrives.

20200619_133607crop

Almost the same view as the cloud front passes, the light improves – and the rain arrives on its coat-tails. You can see why the painter Ashley Jackson loves the skies here so much. They really are Turneresque.

Whilst I’m in such a pensive and thoughtful mode, it brings me onto the…

Picture of the day.

This is about as far removed from the Pennines as you can get. Here’s a picture of the beautiful little beach at Arambol, in North Goa, India, taken on the 30th January 2000.

T9346. Arambol little beach and freshwater lake. Arambol. Goa India. 30.01.2000 crop

My connections to this beach go back to 1985 when I arrived here as a penniless traveller on my first trip to India. The story’s too long for this blog, but I spent 6 weeks living on this beach in 85-86. You see the rocks towards the end of the beach at the far end? We’d bury big old biscuit tins containing our valuables beneath the sand next to them. At night we’d dig pits in the sand on the broad sandy strip facing the sea which we’d line with a mat and cover ourselves with a sheet, falling asleep to the sound of the waves. In the morning you’d wake up and notice the trails of the crabs that had walked over you during the night! In those days it was effectively a nudist beach so in the morning your shower was just (literally) getting out of your pit and running straight into the sea to play in the waves until it was time for breakfast, which (if you wanted to get dressed) you’d have in the nearby village, otherwise from buying fruit off kids who’d come down to the beach, baskets on heads, selling all sorts of local produce. When you wanted to wash the salt off from your sea-shower you’d go for a dip in that lake at the back of the beach, which was freshwater. It was formed by a stream that ran down from the hills at the back of the beach. It was the closest you could get to an idyllic existence and I look back, grateful that I was there at the time to experience it.

One day I’ll do a blog about life here once I’ve scanned the old slides and gone through my old diaries. It was such a different world in those days…

By 2000 it was all rather different, but no less beautiful. Lynn and I had stayed here for several weeks at the beginning of our 1997-99 round the world trip. We’d only been back in the UK a few months but already had itchy feet, so came back to Arambol for a month over the festive season though to the end of January.

Sadly, I’ve not been back to Arambol since 2003. To be honest, I’m not sure that I want to as I don’t know what I’d find now. I have such fantastic memories of the place I wouldn’t want them spoiled. Maybe one day…

 

I’ve a favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this blog, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course (although if you did find something that tickled your fancy would be fab!), but the revenue from them helps to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site – and right now (because of Covid), us locked-down freelances need all the help that we can get…
Thank you!

 

 

 

 

Friday memories…

06 Friday Dec 2019

Posted by Paul Bigland in Down memory lane, India, Indonesia, Photography, Travel

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Down memory lane, India, Indonesia, Photography

Today’s been yet another wet and windy day in the Calder valley and one I’ve been glad that I’ve not had to venture afar in. Most of it has been spent working at home, apart from an afternoon ‘constitutional’ stroll along the canal and a trip up to my local pub, the ‘Big 6’ to meet up with friends and take part in the Friday quiz which is read out my Mel, in her broad Lancashire accent. Guessing what she’s saying is almost as challenging as getting the answers right (sorry Mel!). To give you an idea, heard of the film Ben Hur? In a Lancashire accent Hur is ‘hair’!

It was a pleasant interlude and nice to spend time having a laugh with friends as my other half is down in London this weekend with the ‘girls’. Right now I’m having a quiet night in and trying to sort through more old pictures. Looking through them makes me very conscious of how time’s flying by. Recently I’ve been adding hundreds of old rail pictures to my Zenfolio website. What I’ve neglected is the 1000s of travel pictures in my collection. Tonight I came across one of my old portfolios which I used to tout around the national newspapers and travel magazines when I first turned professional and lived in London. The internet was in its infancy then so you used to ring up newspapers and magazines to try and get appointments with their picture editors to show off your pictures. Sometimes it would go well, other times not. The worst were some of the travel magazines where Mummy or Daddy had got someone a job through their connections. I’m naming no names, but I remember turning up at one (well known brand) where the bright young thing didn’t even have access to a loupe or a lightbox, so held up a sheet of slides to one of the overhead fluorescent tubes and said “oh, these are pretty colours”…

Here’s a couple of the pictures from those old portfolios and the story behind them. This is a mother Orangutan and her baby trying to pinch some of the bunch of bananas from her mouth which was taken in the Bukit Lawang sanctuary in Sumatra, Indonesia back in July 1998. We were very privileged to see such amazing creatures in the wild.

Lynn (my ex-wife) and I were travelling around the world for 18 months at the time and spent several months in Sumatra. Then, SE Asia was in the doldrums of their ‘Economic Crisis’ which was terrible for them, but good for us as the value of the pound was amazing. I’d been there a few years before when £1 would get you 3,500 Rupiah. When we were there it would buy you 22,000 Rupiah! I look back on those times and realise just how lucky we were to be travelling then, because so much has changed since. Here’s the next picture, which has a very different tale to tell.

This picture was taken as a wedding in Bhavnagar, which is in the Gujarat state in Western India. It was taken on the 19th February 2000. One of the reasons I like it is the way one young girl was distracted and looked away, but that’s not the full story. Bhavnager isn’t on the tourist trail (far from it).

Lynn and I had been out on holiday in South India but I stayed on to explore the railways as the Gujarat was the last place steam locomotives operated. Sadly, I missed them by a couple of weeks, but that’s another story. Bhavnagar is also where Gandhi went to college, so I was interested in it to get travel pictures too.

Whilst I was there I was invited by this family to attend a wedding. It’s not an uncommon experience and Indian weddings are a delight for photographers like me and also a great way to get to meet local people. But there’s yet another layer to this tale…

On my way home I lost some of my notes, including the family’s address, so I was never able to send them the pictures, or keep in contact. Almost a year later, on the 26th January 2001 an earthquake struck the Gujarat. Measuring 6.9 on the Richter scale and lasting about 110 seconds, it was the most powerful earthquake to strike India in half a century. 20,000 people died and when I see this picture I often wonder what the fate of these young girls was.

I wish I had more time to scan these old slides. There’s so many stories they can tell, and so many memories…

Day 4 of the Ride India challenge

08 Thursday Mar 2018

Posted by Paul Bigland in Cycling, India, Ride India, The Railway Children, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

India, Rajasthan, Ride India, The Railway Children, Travel

Sorry for the lack of updates on the challenge, this has been due to too many 05:15 starts, late finishes and awful wifi, but here’s a quick look at day 4.

After cycling 113km on day 3 we arrived at which was to be our base for the next two nights. Despite the fact we only had 45km to cycle on day 4 were still up at 05:15 in order to be able to visit the Ranthambore national park and Tiger reserve before we started cycling. It was a fantastic visit to a park teeming with wildlife – even if the Tigers didn’t put in an appearance.

Afterwards we returned to the hotel, picked up our bikes and set off as the mercury in the thermometer climbed steadily past 30 degrees. We retraced our steps back past the national park on the worst roads we’ve cycled on so far. Lots of our time was spent warning each other of potholes, speed-humps and sand-traps as well as the usual hazards of goats, camels and all manner of motorised mayhem.

Our destination was the village of Kutalpura where we stopped for snacks and water before exploring the village. We were invited into several local homes to see how village life was lived before setting off to a local school where we chatted to both pupils and staff. As today’s International Women’s day it was fitting that we also visited Dastkar Ranthambore, a village handicrafts centre which has revived local crafts and given employment to many local women. We had lunch there before we browsed the gift shop – which saw many of us make purchases from the large selection of handicrafts in their on site shop. Fortunately, we didn’t have to carry these back on the bikes as the team bus had followed us!

By now the heat really was something. Although the official temperature was 32 degrees it was far hotter out in the sun, with some folks personal cyclometers registering anything from 40-45 degrees.

This helped to make the next part of the challenge particularly tough. We cycled back into Ranthambore park along a road that was mostly cobbled and had the fiercest gradients we’d encountered on the whole trip. I shed blood doing it as, whilst swerving round a particularly rough stretch of road I encountered a thorn bush which ripped my arm. Don’t believe anyone who tells you these challenges are easy! We’ve already had several minor tumbles which have resulted in skinned limbs or bruised ribs…

As we were running late through spending too much time at the women’s centre our visit to the spectacular ruins of Ranthambore Fort (the 2nd largest in India) had to be cut short in order to allow us to reach home in daylight. Even so, it was worth it as it’s a stunning location with fantastic views across the national park.

Cycling back was a lot easier as it was mostly downhill, even so, after cycling at speed down that bloody cobbled road I’m amazed that I have any fillings left in my teeth! My bottle of cold beer on our return was well earned today!

Tomorrow we have a  lie-in. We don’t have an alarm call until 6am. We on the move again and cycle 80km tomorrow, I’ll update you on our adventure just as soon as I can. In the meantime, here’s some pictures from today.

DG292169

The spectacular ruined fort at Ranthambore seen from the national park, where spotted deer graze by the side of a lake

DG292185

A spotted deer seen through the long grass not long before sunrise.

DG292228

A beautiful Woodpecker spotted in the park

DG292376

Here’s Katerina Delingianni visiting families in Kutalpura

DG292396

Jo Bigland (a distant relation as it turns out!) laughing with schoolchildren at Kutalpura

DG292455

One of the many women who’ve found an outlet for their skills, making money and keeping local crafts alive at Dastkar Ranthambhore

DG292527

When swerving around potholes, try not to come into contact with Thorn bushes…

DG292588

It’s like being back in Yorkshire. OK, without the Mughal fort – obviously! This is the road we climbed up and pelted down. I was neither brave nor stupid enough to take shots of it cycling down the inclines…

Remember, you can still help me raise money for the Railway Children by donating through my JustGiving page which you can find here. Please, every bit helps me help them…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The joys of airport layovers

27 Monday Feb 2017

Posted by Paul Bigland in Air Travel, India, Travel

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Air Travel, India, Travel

I’m taking an enforced break in Mumbai airport between flights. I have to say, this place has improved immeasurably over the years, it’s a world-class airport nowadays (and so charging ‘world class’ prices for food and drink!).  Still, it’s an opportunity to catch up with the world as they offer an hours worth of free wifi – and it’s fast. It’s allowed me to upload a few dozen more pictures of my travels onto my Zenfolio website, which you can find here.

Despite the cost of eating, the airports facilities are pretty good. Security was a breeze, there’s plenty of seating and lots of places to recharge phones, laptops etc. Even the mood muzak is enjoyable as it’s based on Indian classical. The lights are rather groovy too. They’re based on the lotus flower and depict them at various stages of opening. There’s even a loo with a view. One of the Gents toilets has windows above the urinals that look out over the aircaft bays so you can plane-spot whilst you pee!

dg267403

My temporary office for the next couple of hours. You can just see my camera bag by the row of screens!

Right, I’m off to get more pics like this while I have the chance…

dg267402-jet-airways-boeing-737-800-vt-jle-mumbai-india-27-2-17

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