For various reasons there’s a very short blog from me today. The weekend’s almost over and I have a busy week which begins with heading to the community rail conference in Nottingham tomorrow.
Part of my day’s been engaged in editing many more pictures from our Portugal trip, so I though I’d leave you with this one from the Douro valley.
Not so much the grapes of wrath as those of Port…
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I’ve rather enjoyed September. Admittedly, spending half of it in Portugal helped! Talking of which, I’ve broken the back of editing pictures from our tour. You can find the majority of them in these two galleries;
Plus, there’s a few others that you’ll find in the ships and shipping gallery.
Picture editing has consumed most of these past few days as I’ve been busy getting stuff out to clients whilst updating my Zenfolio website – and discussing a future project that will utilise some of the library pictures that I’ve been adding to it. Now, the pressure’s off a little so I may be able to have a day out this week, depending on how much I get done tomorrow as I prepare for a busy week next week. I’ll be in Nottingham for the Community Rail Network conference, then heading to Swindon for another job with the PWI when the focus will be on overhead electrification instead of track. I only hope that the weather Gods smile on us again. Whatever, my camera’s certainly going to be kept busy!
In the meantime, here’s today’s picture, which is from Portugal. Regular readers of this blog will know I have many interests, including railways – and architecture. Sometimes they combine, like this;
This is the magnificent concourse of São Bento (Saint Benedict in English) railway station in Porto. Construction started in 1904 and faced many challenges over the years before it was completed. It was designed by Porto architect José Marques da Silva. It’s famous for the murals, which represent moments in the country’s history and depict rural scenes showing the people of various regions. In the late afternoons this area is packed with tourists on guided tours who’re there to admire these glorious murals and learn about the history. There’s not many railway stations around the world that are on tourist maps like this!
You can find many more pictures of São Bento if you click on the link I posted earlier in this blog.
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Which has been a bit of a shock to be honest. Neither of us were ready to return to the UK as we were enjoying our time in Portugal far too much. Travelling around the country makes one realise how elements of the UK are becoming far too much like the USA nowadays, rather then the continent we’re far more akin to and share a long history with. Europe.
Fortunately, Donald Trump left as we arrived, so we missed all the performative nonsense about his state visit. Our flight back from Faro to Leeds/Bradford went without any hitches and we breezed through passport control and baggage which allowed us to get home by taxi an hour after landing. Another positive was that the far-right flag-shaggers and roundabout painters efforts hardly registered en-route, apart from a few home-made flags of St George (that patron saint who was actually a Turkish mercenary who never once set foot on these islands) in one patch around Leeds.
Now the reality of being back is sinking in. Especially the weather! Today we’ve had wall to wall rain. It’s never stopped it’s just altered in levels. So, for the first day in a very long time my step count is well below par. Instead, I’ve been busy trying to make a dent in picture editing and preparing for getting back to work next week. Sorting out all the Portuguese pictures will take some time, but you’ll be able to find them in the following galleries. One’s devoted to the rail images, and whilst this one’s the travel shots.
I did manage to venture out a couple of times later in the day. Dawn wanted to cook a curry tonight, which involved driving to our local supermarket to pick up some shopping. Whilst she was busy being the hostess with the mostest I took advantage of a gap in the rain to walk up to our local pub for a swift(ish) pint of bitter – so welcome after two weeks of lager drinking – and a catch-up with friends before walking home again. Only this time the weather was expecting me, as you can see from this video of my sodden walk back down the cobbled hill from the Big 6 to home. When the rain’s heavy, the street doubles as a stream.
Tomorrow’s weather promises better things. Sunshine even! The pair of us plan to get out for a little while – there might even be a reservoir blog because of it! Then it’ll be time to prepare for a busy week which will see me travelling to South Wales for a rather interesting rail event. Watch this space…
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I’ve not been blogging daily from here in Olhos de Água as my writing would have resembled a teenagers diary of the ‘got up, had breakfast, went to the beach, came home’ kind. The reality was far more exciting than the routine sounds. For a start, Praia do Barranco is a beautiful beach! It’s a few kilometers long strip of golden sand bordered by amazing cliffs. Once you get away from the areas lined with sunbeds and brollies where most visitors congregate it’s pretty deserted. With it being the Atlantic, the sea’s hardly tropically warm, but it’s still a damned sight warmer than off the UK and ideal for playing in the waves. Here’s a few pictures.
The studio where we’re staying is in a peaceful, well-laid out complex that has plenty of space and includes landscaped gardens with a profusion of flowers, like these.
We’ve also been fortunate to find a really good local restaurant and bar, frequented by tourists and locals alike. Miraparque serves the best Sardines and Tuna steaks we’ve had on this trip, and the prices are hardly extortionate. 9.95 Euros for a plate of 6 freshly grilled Sardines with potatoes and a side salad, whilst the beautifully grilled Tuna steak is 12.50. To make life easier there’s a really good supermarket next door, ideal for stocking up on fruit and drink to take to the beach.
Ironically, having had only one cloudy day throughout the trip we woke up to overcast skies today, which has put the mockers on our plans to make the most of the swimming pool here. Ah, well. Maybe the weather’s trying to tell us something. In a few hours time we’ll be heading for Faro airport before catching an 18:05 flight back to Leeds/Bradford. We’ve both loved out time in Portugal and fallen in live with Porto and where we’re staying now. We’re already planning on coming back.
I’ll add more to this blog later…
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There’s no daily blog from me right now for various reasons. One of which is that this is meant to be the bit of the trip where we kick-back and relax. So, here’s a picture of where we’re spending most of our time right now – this beach. The temperatures fallen a bit today, it’s gone from 31 to 27 degrees…
To those of you back in the UK who’re experiencing heavy rain and gales. Sorry!…(not sorry).
It’s sometimes said that life’s a beach – a sentiment I can empathize with as I’ve spent a goodly amount of my life frequenting (or living) on ones around the world. This one’s rather nice, despite it being in a tourist area. As you can see from the picture it stretches a long way. Go past the restaurant in the middle distance and there’s oodles of scarcely-occupied space. There’s only one drawback. The sea’s bloody cold! As someone who’s used to beaches in the tropics this was a nasty shock! That said, I’m sure I’ll make the most of it before heading back to the ‘sceptic Isle’ on Friday…
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I’mstill 24 hours behind in my blogs but I’m hoping to catch up tomorrow as life here where we’re staying in Olhos de Água is a lot more relaxed. Our touring is over, now there’s time to enjoy beach-time..
Leaving Lisbon wasn’t without its regrets. We’d loved staying there to explore different facets of the city. It’s certainly changed since we were last here in 2010 and some of those changes haven’t been for the better, even so, it remains a great city.
Having checked out of our hotel we had one last superb pastry breakfast outside the station whilst admiring the trio of cruise ships which had arrived overnight. Some of these things are behemoths, more akin to a floating town than a ship.
Having fortified ourselves we caught a local train to Oriente station where our Intercity service to Albufeira was due to leave at 14:02. Oriente’s a really interesting multi-level, modern station built in 1998. In some ways it reminds me of Berlin Hauptbahnhof – only without the layered railways. Below tracks it’s an exercise in futuristic concrete and shopping whilst above tracks its roof owes more to Moorish traditions and austere platforms.
Dawn’s refective sunglasses were ideal for playing around with shots like this…Our train to the South, hauled by 5620, one of 30 Class 5600 electric locomotives built by Siemens and Sorefame between 1993-95 which are the mainstay of Portugese Intercity and regional services after the high-speed ‘Alfa Pendular’ EMUs.
Our train South was packed. As it was probably our last rail journey of this trip I’d booked us into 1st Class, which was an interesting experience as we had seats in the ‘half and half’ car which is split between 1st class and the buffet area. That’s fine, apart from the fact there’s bugger all luggage storage compared to a normal 1st class coach. Either you stick your cases in the overhead luggage racks or you leave ’em clogging the isles.
The train was packed, so people-watching was always going to be fun. We had one group of middle-aged American women who embarked at Entrecampos. Having dumped their bags in the racks they demanded a family move as they were occupying ‘their’ seats. Needless to say, the Yanks were in the wrong carriage! Once we were settled into the journey and Dawn was dozing in her seat I nipped next door to have a beer in the buffet car and indulge in more people watching as the coach wifi wasn’t playing ball, so the blogging I’d intended to do went out of the window.
The buffet car’s popular with late travellers who’ve booked a ticket but can’t get a seat reservation so some people ensconce themselves for the duration, either in the table bays or squatting on the stools lining the coach sides. Many others drift in and out, giving you an idea of how international the clientele are. The Portugese woman behind the counter was kept on her feet all the way but still dealt with the queues with aplomb. There’s all ages and backgrounds on these trains. One battered old Portugese chap caught my eye. His luggage consisted of a sleeping bag in a carrier bag and a small daypack. His clothes and straw hat were as weathered as his face. He kept himself to himself as he chugged red wine, but I got the impression he’d seen a few things in life. He was another people-watcher too…
What could be finer? Observing people and watching the world go by…
We arrived at Albufeira late, but that was no real problem. We grabbed one of the plentiful taxis at the station and within 25 minutes (and some confusion over door numbers) we entered our new abode – which is a lovely little villa on an enclosed estate. I’ll post pictures tomorrow.
Having settled in we explored our new ‘manor’. There’s several restaurants and a supermarket just down the road. We plumped for one local eaterie and ended up having some of the best (and best value) Sardines of the trip – just 9.95 Euros for this little lot!
Tomorrow we’ll be staying close to home and checking out the beaches as this is the restful part of the trip. Plus, we hear the weather back in the UK is less than clement, so we’re going to make the most of wall to wall sunshine and temperatures in the 30s whilst we can!
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I’m a day late with this blog, mainly because we were out most of the day and by the time we got home it was too late to blog as we were both knackered!
Staying in the gorgeous Editory Riverside hotel at Santa Apolónia station had many advantages (apart from me being able to photograph trains with ease). The station has a wonderful, boulangerie, the Marie Blachère – which became our go-to for wonderful pastries like this. Sitting out in the sun with a coffee and pastry was a great way to begin the day.
There’s also a well-stocked and reasonably priced ‘pingo doce’ supermarket where you can buy goodies for your journey. Our journey first took us out to Oriente station where we changed for a suburban train for the 50 minute trip to Sintra, a town to the North-West of Lisbon.
Sintra’s the terminus of two routes from Lisbon. One from Rossio station the the centre of town, the other from Oriente. Both routes are worked by these Class 2300 and 2400 EMUs seen at Cintra.
Sintra’s like Disneyland for the wealthy. It’s full of outrageous palaces and other architectural marvels. No wonder it was the haunt of people like Lord Byron. Nowadays it’s an even bigger draw with its narrow streets clogged with gawping tourists keen to get the perfect picture of themselves stood in the way of something. Even so, the town’s still worth visiting. Here’s a taste of what’s to be seen.
Quinta da Regaleira is an extravagant early 20th century palace and gardens. Castelo dos Mouros – If Monty Python built castles! In reality, this Moorish masterpiece was built in the 10th century. How’s this for a town hall?
Having baked in the sun and worn through a decent amount of shoe-leather we caught the train back into Lisbon, this time arriving at Rossio station in the centre of town. We toyed with the idea of catching the No 28 tram but seeing the queues at the start of the route we flagged that idea and walked home in order to have a rest and chance to freshen up before venturing out to eat.
Another of the advantages of our hotel is that it’s at the edge of the old Alfama district. Its narrow streets are packed with restaurants and bars to suit most tastes (and price brackets). As it was our last night we found one where we could dine alfresco whilst watching the world go by. We plumped for do Vigário Pub and Records, a laid-back and friendly little place which does good tapas style dishes, craft beers, local wines – and music.
Laid-back life on do Vigário…
Whilst our city tours are coming to an end we’re not leaving Portugal yet. We leave Lisbon to head back South by train to the Algarve and several more days kicking back in Olhos de Água, where I hope to have time to catch up with more blogging and picture editing…
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We’ve had a great day exploring Lisbon and areas old and new. Neither of us have been back since our last visit in 2010 and it’s fair to say the city’s changed a bit – and not all for the better.
We started out walking into the centre from Santa Apolónia, then heading over to Cais do Sodré station to catch a train out to Belem, a couple of miles Westwards along the Tagus river. The town has lovely waterfront walks and a few historic sights like the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) which is a tasteful and whitewashed celebration of colonialism without mentioning any of the realities or drawbacks. Still, it looks nice. Just don’t ask how many of these idealised explorers had syphilis or other diseases, or how they treated the indigenous peoples of the places they ‘discovered’.
Belem also provides great views of the massive double-deck Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, where the railway runs below the road to span the Tagus.
Having walked miles in the sun we caught the train back into central Lisbon where we played tram Bingo, grabbing whatever service came first that was heading in the general direction of Martim Monez, where we hoped to pick up route 28. The queues we saw when we got there put us off straight away, so we opted to explore the backstreets on foot, which was a sensible move as we loved what we found that way. Except for one thing. It’s painfully obvious why the trams are so unreliable nowadays – the narrow roads are choked with vehicles that never existed when we were here in 2010. Now there’s hundreds of ‘tuk-tuks’, fake vintage cars, golf-buggies and medium size tourist buses clogging every street – many of them empty and cruising the streets looking for trade, or blocking every spare inch of road and pavement. It’s chaos.
No wonder the tram timetable’s a work of fiction, public transport’s being sabotaged by things like this, which are turning the narrow streets into an endless traffic-jam.
As a photographer, I found the old town very frustrating. Trying to replicate atmospheric shots of trams traversing the narrow streets is next to impossible when there’s a queue of cars/tuk-tuks/deliveroo drivers surrounding them. Here’s one of my few successes.
Frustrations aside, we did enjoy wandering the backstreets, especially when we got away from the main routes. The Alfama area is a delight to explore, when you haven’t got a travel guide and just follow your nose so come across stuff like this.
We’ve another day to explore the city tomorrow before heading back South to the Algarve, so expect more backstreet images…
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We’ve begun the trek back to the Algarve from Porto, a place both of us really didn’t want to leave. It’s a fascinating city the pair of us rather fell in love with. Personally, it has everything I enjoy, amazing architecture, cosmopolitan people, great food and drink – and interesting transport infrastructure. What’s not to like?
Well, maybe the weather – especially this morning as we left when it was chucking down. That said, it was a minor inconvenience. A bus to the station stopped right outside our hotel. At 07:10, it took us 20 minutes to Campanhã through sodden, deserted streets. We sought refuge in a cafe opposite the station and fortified ourselves with coffee whilst watching the locals come and go. I love people-watching and cafes and bars around railway stations are ideal observation points.
Our intercity train South arrived a few minutes late and lost time throughout, but that wasn’t a problem as (in theory) we couldn’t check into our hotel for another three hours after arriving at Lisbon Santa Apolónia. The weather was miserable throughout the trip so there was little to do but doze on the packed train. Fortunately, conditions broke as we approached the city outskirts. To add to the brightening mood we didn’t need to kick our heels in Lisbon either as the hotel had our room readily available. Oh, I forgot to mention, we hadn’t far to go as for the next three nights we’re staying at the station in the gorgeous Editory Riverside hotel! Both the hotel and station have a lovely feel to them – as I hope this selection of pictures portray.
We’ve not done a huge amount on our first day in Lisbon, mainly because our attempt to traverse the No 28 tram route was foiled by the service falling down. We gave up after waiting over an hour for a tram, but we’ll try again tomorrow.
In the meantime, here’s some of what we have been up to.
The weather was still a bit moody when we arrived, as this sky over Praça do Comércio illustrates…Residential tower block? Almost. This was a cruise ship moored in the dock by the station. Name the Otis Redding song (thanks to Dawn for spotting this image). Lisbon Santa Apolónia station is a relaxed place, but it has a lovely atmosphere and great facilitiesThe lobby of our hotel. Nice, innit? We’re on the 2nd floor, where the window at the end of the corridor allows this view across the station.
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Today’s another blog which is light on words but heavy on pictures. This has very much been a day of two halves, partly due to the weather, which was glorious this morning but crap this afternoon. Not that I’m complaining. The heavy cloud made backstreet photography easier as there were less contrasting conditions. Here’s an idea of what we got up to…
We took the tram out along the Douro to the river mouth, where St. John the Baptist of Foz Fort still guards the entrance to the river. There’s not much to see inside, but the walls look impressive and the views are rather good. Outside the fort is the Praia do Carneiro, a local beach were you can watch the Atlantic ocean break on these rocks offshore, safe in the knowledge that 1000s of miles of empty ocean separate mainland Europe from Donald Trump’s America. Next stop was Porto tram museum which is housed in the old power station which supplied electricity to the tram network. There’s a great selection of restored trams showcasing the history and development of the network.The adjacent building houses some of the original power generating equipment and switchgear. It’s an amazing room where steampunk meets ‘Metropolis’. Wandering through the streets of the old town my eye caught this sign outside a restaurant. It’s not often you hear someone using ‘force majeure’ nowadays! The backstreets of the old town are fascinating. You never know quite what you’ll find…
I’ve a small favour to ask… If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website – https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/
Paul Bigland 