Monthly Archives: February 2025

Asia day 26. Thailand day 7…

09 Sunday Feb 2025

Posted by in Bangkok, Photography, Thailand, Travel

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Really? I’ve been here a week already? Time flies as Bangkok is one of those cities where I feel very at home – despite all its pollution and other travails. When I’m here I just slip back into its life without any stress. Bangkok is one of the world’s major and cosmopolitan cities. There’s few like it. London and New York are in the same league, but after that…

Today I moved hotels for the final time on this trip and I’ve gone ‘upmarket’, transitioning from a windowless fan room to a place with a window and a view (a double-edged sword), a fridge in my spacious room and a rooftop swimming pool. The last one matters the most. When I leave Bangkok I’m going to be constantly on the move, so this bit of the trip is the chance to kick back a bit. That said, there’s a lot to fit into the last few days. I’d hoped to meet up with my old friend Chrissorn today but he’s under the weather. Instead I enjoyed a few hours soaking up the sun by the pool. Then I nipped out for a beer at the Gecko bar (another old haunt) after having a quick video call with Dawn which wasn’t great as I was out in the street and poaching off a previous hotels internet. Cheapskate? Me? Actually .no. My hotel wifi asks far too much detail so I’m limiting what I use it for.

Remember I mentioned a monorail (or two)? I still haven’t had time to visit either of them. That’s the plan for tomorrow and tomorrow’s looking like another busy day..

Meanwhile, here’s a couple of pictures for you.

More fantastic food. Crispy fish and pumpkin with egg (plus rice) off my favourite streetfood stall – and all for £1.10.
The rooftop pool at my latest hotel. It has fantastic views over this part of Bangkok. Plus, it’s a good place to catch some rays.

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If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Asia day 24. Thailand day 5..

07 Friday Feb 2025

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It’s another short blog from me tonight as it’s late and I’ve only just got back to my hotel after a lovely evening spent with an old Thai friend, Chrissorn. The two of us were racking our brains over when we first met and all we could work out was that it was at least 20 years ago (more likely 25 plus). My plan to explore one of the new monorails took a back seat because of our intention to meet. Plus, it’s been a hot and sticky day here in Bangkok, so you don’t go out in the evening without a shower first. I did venture up river via the Chao Praya water taxis then the metro to Bang Sue for a spot of exploring, which is when I found this. A battery electric locomotive supplied by CRRC in China back in 2022. You can learn more about it here.

Interestingly, the PR material doesn’t mention the vehicle which the loco is coupled to – which I’m assuming is the battery pack! The loco supposedly has a range of 200km, which is tiny compared to traditional diesel-powered locomotives. Plus, that assumes there’s charging facilities at the other end…

Anyway, normal service will be resumed shortly. I’ve a vast backlog of pictures to edit and some work to do before the next blog. In the meantime, here’s Chris and I…

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Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Asia day 23. Thailand day 4…

06 Thursday Feb 2025

Posted by in Bangkok, Photography, Railways, Thailand, Travel

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Today’s been another one where I’ve not travelled far as I’ve been too busy sorting out everyday stuff. I was awake by 07:00 when I caught up with the news – all the stuff that’s fit to print, allegedly – and some more expert and intelligent analysis that you won’t find in the mainstream media. For example, if you want considered and fact-checked information about the war in Ukraine. there’s no better place to look than the daily updates from the Institute for the study of war.

Of course, there’s plenty of ASEAN and other European news to trawl through too. After which, it was time to pack my bags and leave my cell – sorry – hotel room. To be honest, for £7 a night it wasn’t bad -it was just like going back 30 years. Well, apart from the wifi access, obviously! My only real complaint was how weak the showers in the shared bathrooms were. There was a gap of several hours between checking out and checking in, but the place I was leaving as happy to store my kit so I went for lunch and a wander. Here’s today’s first course of street-food.

My staple (squash and egg) only this time combined with chicken and bamboo shoots.

By 14:00 I could check into my new hotel. I know the Khao San Art Hotel of old. I think I first stayed here around the mid 1990s. In those days it was called ‘Happy House’ which eventually morphed into ‘Happio’. It became an ‘art hotel’ before I last stayed here in 2023. The place has been refurbished and redecorated, and for what it costs it’s a pretty good cheap-range hotel. As long as you don’t mind the fact there’s no lift – just a labyrinthine network of stairs! On the bright side I now have air-conditioning rather than just a fan, a double bed (nice but not essential), plus my own bathroom with a shower that actually showers rather than just pisses on you!

Budget luxury – as long as you don’t try to swing a cat..

So, I’m all set for the next six days of exploring Bangkok and catching up with an old friend. Oh – hang on, I’m only booked in here for three nights. Maybe I’ll go upmarket and find a place with a rooftop pool for the last few days, especially as I’ve had to cut some places out of my itinerary.

Today I booked onward rail travel through Malaysia through the KTMB (Malaysian railways) app on my phone. Mark, ‘the man in seat 61’ doesn’t recommend it but I’ve been using it for years. The app is really easy to use and lets you choose your seat, which is something many private booking companies don’t. My timetable looks rather different now. I’ll only have one night in my ‘happy place’ (Georgetown, on Penang Island) before getting a train to Kuala Lumpur, where I’ll stay three nights. I’d have preferred it the other way around, but there’s more rail stuff to see in KL. Plus, there’s a friend whom I’d like to catch up with.

My original plan was to continue South by rail to Johor Baru (so I could have a look at the rebuilding of the mainline railway and the LRT between JB and Singapore. That’s out of the window now. To my chagrin I’m having to take another (longer) flight – this time from KL to Jakarta. At least that gets me back in the country I’m flying home from! I’d hoped to fly to Surabaya and make my way back to Jakarta by rail, but that wasn’t to be either. At least now I can concentrate on pictures of the Jakarta rail network and take a spin to Bandung on their high-speed trains. After all, I’ll always come back to Thailand and Malaysia – with the odd side-trip to Indonesia.

Now I’ve all the planning/moving out of the way I’m going to have a day out tomorrow and check out the two new monorail lines that have been built in Bangkok. It’s not a technology that’s really caught on worldwide, although there is one in KL which I’ve travelled on a few times.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Asia day 22. Thailand day 3…

05 Wednesday Feb 2025

Posted by in Bangkok, Food and drink, Photography, Thailand, Travel

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The Prussian General Helmuth von Moltke has a saying attributed to him, which is that (and it’s paraphrased) ‘no plan survives first contact with the enemy’. It’s the same with travelling. I’d planned to leave Bangkok on the international train to Padang Besar in Malaysia on the 9th. Only it’s full. The first available berths are on the 12th. Having checked online I’d a sneaky suspicion that I was going to be frustrated, but a trip out to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (aka Bang Sue Grand Station) to book a ticket confirmed things. As station names go, it hardly trips off the tongue. But getting there was fun. I’ve no guide book for Thailand, I don’t really need one as I’ve been here so many time before, and the advent of the internet has eaten into their market. The fact ‘Lonely Planet’ guides are so crap they’re a waste of money is another issue (I’ll blog about that another time – honest!) There’s lots of ways of getting to Bang Sue (no sniggering at the back!)

The best way is the Chao Praya river taxi from nearby Phra Arthit pier which took me up river and delivered me at Bang Po. From there it’s two stops on the skytrain, but me being me – I decided to walk. That way, you get to explore and peer into Thai life. Like small businesses like this, which I spotted whilst passing. I haven’t got a Scooby Do what it is they’re making, but I find these places fascinating.

Having secured my onward train ticket at Bang Sue (now what did I say about sniggering?) I had a wander and found the new locomotive depot, which was full of old crocks like this.

I then paid the princely sum of 2 baht to catch a local train to the grand old terminal at Hualamphong, which is just as much a museum as a mainline terminal nowadays. All the long-distance trains have disappeared, along with a lot of the life. Instead, the tracks once used by trains to Chiang Mai and Malaysia are full of relics like this.

Still, there were some great pictures to be had – and as trains are now so infrequent I had time to pop over to and old restaurant opposite the station I know of old. I ordered a beer and the Papaya salad (Tom Sum). The cook asked me if I wanted it ‘spicy’ so I told him yes ‘Thai spicy’. ‘Kin hell – I’m very used to spicy food and regularly ladle the local chilli condiment onto my food, but this was weapons-grade! My tongue was on fire for a good half-hour!

Looks innocuous enough, doesn’t it? This Som Tum was nuclear!

My tastebuds re-appeared just before I caught the 16:30 train back to Bang Sue. Initially it seemed a fairly quiet train on departure. I was in for a surprise! One of the reasons Hualamphong was replaced as the main station is the number of level crossings in the way to Bang Sue. Trains stop at them all – and commuters know this, so stand in the tracks waiting for their train! Like this.

Oh, then there’s the poorer Bangkok residents who simply utilise the railway for recreation…

There’s so much that I could blog about today but the evening’s wearing on and I’m moving hotels tomorrow as well as working out a new itinerary. Hopefully, I’m meeting up with an old Thai friend in the evening, but a blog will still be in the offing…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Asia day 21. Thailand day 2…

04 Tuesday Feb 2025

Posted by in Food and drink, Photography, Thailand, Travel

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I’ve had an easy day today here in Bangkok. I decided that my first day flying solo would be spent catching up on planning the rest of my trip, picture editing and generally kicking back in the vicinity of my cell, sorry – hotel room!

The temperature here in Bangkok is almost identical to that of Bali and Java, only it’s not the rainy season and we’re seeing more sunshine. Well, when the smog isn’t present. The day before I arrived flights had to be diverted from the airport I flew into due to visibility being crap thanks to pollution. Bangkok’s an amazing city but the air quality’s pretty crap. To be honest, I’ve not noticed it being too bad on this trip, but then I’ve been here less than 24 hours and nowadays the most prevalent smell around Banglamphu (the area I’m staying in) is the sweet smell of cannabis due to the amount of legal ‘medicinal’ shops selling grass and the amount of people smoking it! You can buy grass of various strengths by the gram or even individual rolled joints if you so decide. Of course, if you’re travelling into Malaysia or Indonesia you’d better ensure you have not a trace of it in your luggage or on your person as both country’s have very strict drug laws. In fact, when you fly with any Indonesian airline they point out that there’s the death penalty for drug trafficking, as a few unfortunates (including some Australians) have found out to their cost in the past.

Thailand is rather more relaxed on a lot of fronts, which is why it’s so much fun sitting somewhere people-watching. This place is still an international crossroads, even if the old ‘backpacker trail’ isn’t what is was when I first came here in 1992. But then, neither’s the Khao San Rd. In those days you could be locked out of the place you were staying in of you were out after midnight (as I once found out to my cost). Now, it’s gone from being a backpacker street to more ’24 hour party people’ with loud music blaring out from so many different places and even the arrival of ‘girly bars’. Admittedly, I haven’t stayed on the Khao San for 20 years. It was becoming difficult then because of the building of big, brash new hotels and the influx of Israelis’ (ask any old Asia traveler about Israelis’ and their reputation and they’ll no doubt explain). Now the Israeli’s’ have been supplanted by Russians, who’re also doing their bit to subvert international goodwill. Admittedly, the Russians are somewhat easier to spot. Well, the women are anyway. It’s the combination of endlessly posing for selfies/tiktok videos and the combination of bleached-blond hair and industrial quantities of lip filler that makes them stand out. You see, people-watching is one of the great (cheap) pleasures of being here in such a melting pot. There’s lots of younger travelers, bright-eyed and excited at being in such an exotic place, then there’s the older people (gulp, like me I suppose) who’ve been coming here for decades and who’ve decided to spend much of their retirement in Thailand due to the quality of life and cheaper cost of living. The other demographic that changed is that the tourists are no longer mostly European or North American. there used to be a lot of Yanks and Australians who came back due to serving in Vietnam in the 60’s-70’s as Thailand is where they went for ‘R&R’ (rest and recreation). I remember passing a bar they used to frequent with a sticker in the window about ‘Hanoi Jane‘ (Jane Fonda). Now they’re being supplanted by Chinese and Indian tourists, both countries with a burgeoning monied middle-class. It all makes for a very interesting melting pot.

OK, I’m going to call it a day now as I have a lot of stuff to sort out, so I’ll leave you with a few pictures.

Thailand is one of the best places in the world for street food. He’re a chap looking at buying a drive-by meal. Bugger McDonald’s!
My lunch of squash and egg along with green beans and pork (with rice, obviously) bought from my favorite street stall. They’ve been selling food since 1974 and I’ve been eating here since 1999. This still costs 50 baht (around £1.10), They’ve not put their prices up for years. The condiment is red and green chopped chilis with fish sauce and lemon juice. It’s not for the faint-hearted but I love it.
The view from the floor of my hotel. It looks out over Wat Chana Songkhram Ratchaworamahawihan, an 18th century royal temple.
Khao San Rd in all its glory. It’s been pedestrianised for many years due to encroachment and the sheer weight of people.
It’s rather calmer and more civilised outside the place I’m staying in. Soi Rambutri.

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Asia day 20. Thailand day 1…

03 Monday Feb 2025

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The pair of us were up at 05:30 this morning in order to get to the airport in plenty of time as traffic around Denpasar can be a bit of a ‘mare that time of morning. We needn’t have worried. When we got close to the chaos, our driver took us along a near empty expressway that didn’t exist last time I was here. The airport’s changed a bit too as it’s expanded quite a bit and looks very modern. We had to do a double take when we walked past all the shops and spotted a WH Smiths!

Our AirAsia flight was on time, only taking 90 minutes to cover what took us the best part of 3 days by land and sea. We flew into terminal one, but my flight was from terminal two and Dawn’s from three – several hours later, so I sat with her at her terminal for as long as I could before I had to catch the Skytrain back to two. Saying goodbyes at airports is always difficult and rather emotional, especially when you’re both flying, but to different places, especially after a trip like ours.

My check-in was relatively painless, and both security and immigration were hassle-free. I even had chance to get some aircraft shots before I boarded as this is a very busy airport.

My carriage awaits..

Seen at Jakarta airport. Insert own joke here…

My flight to Bangkok took three and a half hours, but I dozed for much of it. We landed at Don Mueng  (there’s no time difference between Jakarta and Bangkok) and I breezed through. I was one of the first dozen off the plane. It took me less than 5 minutes to get my passport stamped with a visa on arrival. My suitcase was waiting for me on the carousel and I was out of the airport in no time. By 20:40 I was sat on the A4 bus (fare 50 baht, around £1.10) heading for the Khao Sarn Rd and my hotel.

It’s now 00:44 Bangkok time and I’m winding down after a long day. I’m staying in Soi Rambutri in a place I’ve not been in for years because Bangkok is busy right now. It’s the height of the season so many places are booked up. I’m in a place Called ‘Merry V’. The rooms are plain vanilla only without the vanilla! It reminds me of how this area was when I first flew into Bangkok from Nepal way back in 1992. Dawn would hate it! It’s not so much a room as a cell. Buddhist monks would feel very at home here. On the bright side – I’m only here for three nights before I move to somewhere with a few more amities – like your own bathroom!

I’ll have chance to blog further (and add pictures) tomorrow. In the meantime – goodnight!!

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312

Indonesia day 19. Time to fly…

02 Sunday Feb 2025

Posted by in Bali, Indonesia, Photography, Travel

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What happened to day 18 you may ask? A good question. It was one where I didn’t have time to blog because of ‘stuff’ (lots of stuff). That said, it was nice to be back in Ubud once more.

Now we’re on the last day here in Bali as we fly back to Jakarta early in the morning. Dawn head back to the UK and I head to Bangkok. As it was our last day much of it was spent soaking up the sun around the pool. The weather’s slowly improving here as we move out of the rainy season. In fact we’ve not seen a spot all day – which makes a change. Whilst Dee spent most of her day around the pool I broke away early afternoon in order to have a wander and say my goodbyes (or more realistically au revoir) to various friends I have here. Sadly, I didn’t get to see them all – on this trip, anyway.

Despite the fact I’ve not been here since 2017 I still feel very much at home here. Of course Bali’s changed but in some ways that’s been for the better. I’m fascinated to see how the tourist demographic has morphed. Nowadays there’s so many visitors from India, China, Japan and other ASEAN nations – some of which I can’t work out. Asian women with tattoo’s won’t be from Japan, but there’s quite few here, so where are they from? It’s not a question I can ask directly. I love sitting in a busy market to people watch, trying to guess nationalities. One of the things that amuses me is how Westerners are desperate to get a tan, whilst Asians are desperate to maintain a fair skin – hence looks like this.

The old market’s changed a bit. I remember when it was a collection of small shops and a proper ‘pasir malam’ (night market) of food stalls that were set up on muddy ground. Now there’s this.

Still, some things haven’t changed, like these old wagons which have been ferrying people and goods for decades. The beauty of them? They’re not monsters.

Tomorrow involves a lot of travelling, so my next blog may be a hybrid between Indonesia and Thailand. Plus, I’ll be travelling solo which means my blogs will be more illuminating as I’ll have more time to write. As plans (which are fluid) go – I’ll be back in Java around the 15th February, but there’s going to be a lot of ground covered before then.

See you tomorrow…

I’ve a small favour to ask…
If you enjoy reading this or any of the other blogs I’ve written, please click on an advert or two. You don’t have to buy anything you don’t want to of course – although if you did find something that tickled your fancy that would be fab! – but the revenue from them helps me to cover some of the cost of maintaining this site (which isn’t cheap and comes out of my own pocket). Remember, 99% of the pictures used in my blogs can be purchased as prints from my other website –  https://paulbigland.zenfolio.com/

Or – you can now buy me a coffee! https://ko-fi.com/paulbigland68312