We’re back at our Welsh retreat after a relaxed morning and enjoyable day exploring the peninsula.

We’re staying near to Nefyn on the North side of the peninsula so it made sense to check out the coast by Morfa Nefyn. This possesses a narrow outcrop of rock jutting into the Irish Sea which contains some interesting archeology, a profusion of wildlife, fantastic coastal views – and a pub (the Tŷ Coch Inn) which is a rare beast. You can’t drive there. You can only visit on foot or by boat.

Having left the car on the beach road (the parking restrictions are much easier this time of year) we walked along the sand and pebnles getting broader with an ebbing tide. The weather even blessed us with unexpected sunshine. On reaching Porthdinllaen we decided to delay a pub visit in order to make the most of the weather and complete a coastal circuit first. The views were glorious. Sadly, there were no sightings of Dolphins or Seals, just Oystercatchers – and this.

Poor Dawn got horribly confused when we arrived back at the pub as she hadn’t studied the map and realised our route traversed a long teardrop of land that was only a few hundred yards long!

The pub’s a bit of a gem. This time of year it’s cosy but not too crowded. The weather’s mild enough to use the large outside seating area to watch over the beach and the antics of the many canines being taken for a walk. Dogs love beaches. There’s so many interesting things to sniff or dead things to roll in!

Moving on we decided to head to Aberdaron which was a 30 minute drive on very quiet roads – although I expect they’re anything but in the height of the tourist season!

Aberdaron’s a curious place. It’s a gorgeous location, with a wide beach surrounded by cliffs, but the village feels like it’s seen better times. A number of shops had closed down – and I’m not sure it was just because the season’s over. St Hywyn’s church on the foreshore’s a fascinating but melancholic place too.

There’s a large graveyard scraped out of the hillside that bears testament to the power of the sea and fragility of humankind. Here’s an example.

On the bright side, next door is Tŷ Newydd, a large hotel and bar with a huge verandah overlooking the beach. The staff were very friendly, the local ale in excellent condition and the views sublime. We really enjoyed out visit and would certainly return in the future. Now it’s time to call it a day and curl up in front of the log fire in the cottage. The wifi is as fast as a tortoise tonight, so most of this blog’s been typed on my phone.

The weather’s predicted to be wet tomorrow. How wet we won’t know until it arrives, but it won’t stop us exploring the area further.

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